Logging winch- New user with questions!

   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #11  
I just purchased a Farmi winch and have not really used it much yet. But a couple things I have gleaned. You can cut the PTO shaft yourself. Mine came with instructions and there are a number of YouTube videos also. But, on my tractor the 3 point geometry is such that parallel is not the shortest point. As you go above parallel the distance gets shorter.

I think it was on the Farmi site that there were several good videos on using the winch. One of the "duh" techniques they showed was related to soggy ground. If it get muddy,etc just let the winch cable out until you get to solid ground and then winch the logs back up.

Doug in SW IA
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #12  
Hey Kabota girl,I lug this one around in my coat pocket and it's so simple there's no need for instructions. Check it out on Ebay.

HD 22,000 lbs Snatch Block 10 TON Recovery Winch Pulley Off Road ATV UTV Tow
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I'll venture a wild guess and say apparently pound ratings are measured quite differently if that lightweight little thing is rated 10 times what my Jet block is.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #13  
Start with smaller logs to get a feel for things. Logs you can roll with a peavey if you have to. Set your tractor RPM low to start, at around 12 or 1300. This will give you time to react. Your 7060 has plenty of torque at this RPM so you aren't losing any pulling power. If you are going to pull big logs with a winch you will make a furrow. Usually it is mostly just duff but you will dig thru the tops of uneven ground. To avoid that wait til the ground is frozen.

Just work slow and pay attention. Do not try to take short cuts if things do not go as planned. That is where most accidents happen. Stop, reassess what you need to do and continue on. It is a learning experience. You will recognize a good winch path from a poor one after some experience. Follow the good advice given above. Work safe and have fun.

EDIT: I should add - Watch out for dead trees. they can come down easy. If your incoming log should hit a dead tree in front of you it can come down on you quicker than you can imagine !! Same goes for driving in the woods. Any dead trees around your tractor roads should be removed. If you are jigging around for position and your bucket or winch hits a dead tree or shakes a good tree with dead branches above they will come down on you or your tractor.

gg
 
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   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #14  
I'll venture a wild guess and say apparently pound ratings are measured quite differently if that lightweight little thing is rated 10 times what my Jet block is.
I have several of the $25 ones from HF, look at the size bush and axle they have, no wonder they are rated so strong

standard.jpg


I've double lined them and pulled like crazy on them with my winch and the only thing I've done to any of them, was to pull them apart, clean them and put some synthetic grease on the axle...

They aren't quick release, but they have worked just fine for me, double lined or to redirect a log ect...

SR
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #15  
Wow, thank you all so much for taking the time to explain with such detail! I am so grateful for all this advice and expertise. I'm soaking it all up and re-reading the comments to make sure I didn't miss one thing that is said. Please keep sharing your experiences. The snatch block pulley for pulling across streams or up a bank is a great one. Jaxs, I thought going over a bank or across stream was a limiting factor for the winch but using the snatch block to get past that is great to know! I am starting to get a clearer picture of the winch's abilities and limitations. I did buy a Wallenstein 8,000 lb self-release snatch block when I bought the winch and picking them up this morning.

If you have the self-releasing snatch block, you already have one of the best options you can add to your winch. You can't beat being able to winch around a corner without have to stop and walk back to release the block.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #16  
If you have the self-releasing snatch block, you already have one of the best options you can add to your winch. You can't beat being able to winch around a corner without have to stop and walk back to release the block.

It should be noted though that that self releasing block would not be suitable for use as a doubling block since the working load limit is well below what the winch would produce in that situation.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #17  
Before you get into the woods, don't forget to crawl under your tractor and look at all the pretty, vulnerable, expensive & shiny parts under there.
The most innocent looking 1" stick kicked up by your front tires can poke a hole in a hydraulic filter (rear right side) or snag a loader line. :thumbsup:
It's a touch machine but designed for field work when it comes to it's very soft "belly". Be safe, have fun!
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #18  
Take some strong help with you that has good legs. After pulling that winch cable out, and carrying skidding chains, a time or two by yourself, on a few long and/or steep runs, you will be glad you did.

Put some key hole sliders on your main winch cable in addition to having a larger hook on the end. This will enable hooking multiple logs up at different locations before you start pulling so you can pull more than one out at a time. Also put choker hooks on your skidding chains.

I don't have one on mine, but the protective metal screens that bolt to the winch help keep the operator safe

See every move in your mind BEFORE you start pulling - check trees in the pull area that are dead or have dead tops that could possibly fall your way if the log you are skidding bumps the base of the tree.

You don't need a lot of RPMs to pull a lot of weight. Start out low and slow when using your winch until you gain some experience.

Refer back to first suggestion again ;)

Good Luck and stay safe and have fun!
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #19  
To the OP, you like safety, and that's a good way to go, especially with something as potentially dangerous as a logging winch. First and foremost, ALWAYS wear gloves when connecting to your winch cable, choker chains, snatch blocks etc. Keep away from the cable ends where they are swedged from the factory. The little cut end pieces will puncture skin without any effort.
If your hair is long, ALWAYS wear it up, and use a screened face chainsaw helmet with ear muffs to protect your head, eyes and hearing.

Try to keep your cable from twisting while winching in. Never let the cable slide through your hands, even with gloves on. Don't even run your hand along the cable with the winch cable not in use. Broken strands of cable can be anywhere along the cable length. ONLY hold on to the cable hook at the end when pulling the cable out to your load location.

Periodically hook your cable onto a tree or other immovable object and drive the tractor away from the object to allow the entire cable or close to the full length off the drum it winds onto. Then reel the tractor back to the object; easy way is to have a driver on the tractor while you pull the cable lever, while the cable winds back onto the drum. This keeps the cable from getting pinched at spots that overlap while spooling back onto the drum during use. Your winch will work smoother and less chance of pinching or the cable unwinding some areas of the tightly wound multiple strands.

While in learning stages you can take an old blanket and throw it over the cable say 1/2 way between the winch and your attached log load. If the cable were to snap for some reason, the blanket would absorb some of the tension and would allow the cable to more likely drop to the ground instead of trying to whiplash back toward you.
You may experience some slippage as the new cable tightens on the drum during your first number of pulls. This would be considered normal.

The picture of the blue tractor with the orange snatch block has a plow lip at the bottom of the rearward facing edge. Ideally you would tilt your winch so the edge is angled to dig into the ground so pulling the winch cable toward the tractor will NOT pull the tractor toward your log. Tish is SOP for winches mounted to tractor PTO 3PH's ( SOP: std. operating procedure, PTO:power take off 3PH: 3 point hitch). So your tractor's rear tires should face the load, (log) you want to winch in, and the winch should be angled with it's top section further away from the tractor than the bottom edge; again so as to resist the tractor/winch from being pulled toward your load when the winch is in use. So your winch to tractor PTO spline needs to be able to slide, by being properly greased for use BEFORE installing to the tractor/PTO & winch, and it needs enough length to accommodate the backward lean spoken about above. However, the drive shaft and shaft (covers) need to be long enough to allow for this but NOT too long, which could cause binding if the winch is lifted too high off the ground. ALWAYS turn your tractor off before going anywhere near the PTO shaft, even when the guard is on the shaft. Long hair and long sleeves above rules apply here; beware even after tractor is turned off the PTO shaft can still be winding down for a minute or so. Do not approach until the shaft is still.

Lastly, for now, using a snatch block, (I use a 'clam shell' type block) can be setup to double the winches pulling power.
How this effect is accomplished is better explained by those who use this technique on a regular basis, than by me.
I also suggest you have someone nearby but out of the danger zone of your work in case you were to need assistance. Next best solution is carrying a cell phone that works in the work area, or a Walkie with someone with another radio within range; test it before beginning work to verify clear communication.
 
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   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #20  
Was going to suggest a self-releasing snatch block. Great time and step saver.

Another suggestion relates to the cable. Cable breakages often occur at points on the line where a previous hang-up has kinked the cable so the strands do not take the load of subsequent pulls evenly. So, as others say, it's best to clear a snag instead of continuing to pull on it with the winch. Similarly, periodically cleaning and lubing the cable will minimize damage from rust and debris.

Pull at the lowest rpm that the tractor will drive the winch. There is a slip clutch in the winch that should prevent the tractor from stalling in case of a snag. It may eventually need adjusting if it isn't releasing properly.

Most winches have an upper and a lower pulley. The upper pulley position lifts the front of the log being pulled higher, reducing the potential for a snag, but the lower position has less potential for a roll-over. I usually just used the lower pulley because it puts less load on the top link of the 3 point when making a pull. Overloading of the top link may eventually cause damage to the rear end of the tractor, with some tractors being more vulnerable than others.

And one more vote for making straight pulls! The greater the angle off-center for the pull, the more risk of a tractor roll-over if there's a snag.
 
 

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