Backhoe Logging with a Backhoe

[DAY]

the fel is designed for pushing. the 3 point is designed for pulling and not pushing. the hoe is designed for digging. brewdog

So, I can hook a log chain to my bucket, run it back under the 4500, and "PUSH" the log out?

'I watched a couple of you-tubes, using a capstan winch to pull logs out of the woods. They used a low-stretch double-braid polyester rope. Seems safer than chain or wire rope.

 

[brewdog]

the fel is designed for pushing. the 3 point is designed for pulling and not pushing. the hoe is designed for digging. brewdog

So, I can hook a log chain to my bucket, run it back under the 4500, and "PUSH" the log out?

'I watched a couple of you-tubes, using a capstan winch to pull logs out of the woods. They used a low-stretch double-braid polyester rope. Seems safer than chain or wire rope.

That is funny !! I like the capstan set up. I checked out the video too. it does seem safer.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

I always like to lift the towing end of the log off the ground anyway just because the butt always digs in if I don't. Using a log to plow with just isn't very efficient use of resources.

 

[DAY]

I always like to lift the towing end of the log off the ground anyway just because the butt always digs in if I don't Dr Zinj

A three point implement (blade, box, etc) on the tractor can become a poor man's log arch.
With just one point on the log touching, there is much less power needed- plus, you don't pick up stones in the tree bark on the way to the landing.

 

[brewdog]

I always like to lift the towing end of the log off the ground anyway just because the butt always digs in if I don't Dr Zinj

A three point implement (blade, box, etc) on the tractor can become a poor man's log arch.
With just one point on the log touching, there is much less power needed- plus, you don't pick up stones in the tree bark on the way to the landing.

You make a really good point. My three point implement is a Weight bar that hangs on the 3 point hitch. I tie a short chain to the log and lift it up as you describe above.

 

[Coyote machine]

Earlier one poster referred to videos of using braided rope instead of a chain, and a capstan type winch. Where is what he referred to?

And there is such a thing as a log winch designed specifically to pull logs from the woods, after lifting the close butt end off the ground. And believe me when I tell you they are AWESOME! They'll pull logs a tractor alone will not touch, especially when one uses the proper snatch block which 'clamshells' the cable into it without dismantling for each log.
IMHO, this is the only and safest way to go for both tractor and operator.
Check out Igland brand winches- they are amazing.....

 

[Taylortractornut]

THe 4500 like my 3550 should have a semi quick removable hoe just loosen the clamps that hold the hoe on and jack it up with the out riggers and hoe. and eas the tractor out. THen unhook the lines. There should be a cap under the hoe by the valve thatcaps the subframe tank fitting. o could skid from that. On the 3550 I made a small reciever hitch that fits under the hoe. I used it to drage with and later I had a 2 wheel trailer that I used the hoe and thumb to load rocks on one job I was doing.

 

[DAY]

Here's a brief video of a capstan winch. Goes where the tractor can't.
Skid a log with the snatch block and skidding cone - YouTube

 

[DennisFolsom]

This thread has given me a lot of food for thought. I have already used my backhoe hydraulics to pull a log to me. (Hurricane Irene cleanup). Based on the advice I have read here, I would not even try to "tow" a log by driving the tractor, with a chain attached to the movable parts of the backhoe.

I have looked my JD 48 backhoe over for a good place to attach a chain to the frame, that would not come in contact with the stabilizers or the hoe mechanism. The rear portion of the "footrests" are about 1/4" plate that are welded to, and part of, the frame. There is an angle on these, where my chain's grab hook would fit. In a pinch, and if the log is not super heavy, I may hook there.

I also have an idea for something better. Tractor Supply's web site shows an 11,000 lb bolt-on D-shaped "anchor ring." Unfortunately, the web site did not give dimensions. I'll have to see if I can find them in the store, to check the size, and particularly the bolt spacing. If I'm real lucky, the bolt spacing would be the same, or close enough, to the spacing of the pairs of bolts that go through the backhoe frame. This location would not interfere with the operation of the backhoe, and would provide a convenient and strong place to attach a chain. If this works out, I can make a chain "bridle" that would hook to these anchor rings on both sides. The effect would be similar to how you rig a waterski tow rope, to avoid the outboard motor. In this case, the bridle would provide a means to pull from the center, but avoid the backhoe in the middle. If I implement this idea, I'll post photos.

I am also working on an idea for log pulling with the backhoe dismounted. Some of the locals in my area use a "trapezoid" on their 3 point hitch that is similar to the Log Hog from Norwood (also available from Northern Tool.) I'm planning to assemble one from a 3PT drawbar, Northern Tool's Drawbar stabilizer, some angle iron, and two grab hooks. It will be a multi-purpose device, which can serve as a receiver hitch, a drawbar, as well as a log pulling device. It may not be quite as rugged as a Log Hog, but it will cost me about $150 less. When I get the pieces of this thing together, I'll make a new thread and post photos.

 

[Coyote machine]

This thread has given me a lot of food for thought. I have already used my backhoe hydraulics to pull a log to me. (Hurricane Irene cleanup). Based on the advice I have read here, I would not even try to "tow" a log by driving the tractor, with a chain attached to the movable parts of the backhoe.

I have looked my JD 48 backhoe over for a good place to attach a chain to the frame, that would not come in contact with the stabilizers or the hoe mechanism. The rear portion of the "footrests" are about 1/4" plate that are welded to, and part of, the frame. There is an angle on these, where my chain's grab hook would fit. In a pinch, and if the log is not super heavy, I may hook there.

I also have an idea for something better. Tractor Supply's web site shows an 11,000 lb bolt-on D-shaped "anchor ring." Unfortunately, the web site did not give dimensions. I'll have to see if I can find them in the store, to check the size, and particularly the bolt spacing. If I'm real lucky, the bolt spacing would be the same, or close enough, to the spacing of the pairs of bolts that go through the backhoe frame. This location would not interfere with the operation of the backhoe, and would provide a convenient and strong place to attach a chain. If this works out, I can make a chain "bridle" that would hook to these anchor rings on both sides. The effect would be similar to how you rig a waterski tow rope, to avoid the outboard motor. In this case, the bridle would provide a means to pull from the center, but avoid the backhoe in the middle. If I implement this idea, I'll post photos.

I am also working on an idea for log pulling with the backhoe dismounted. Some of the locals in my area use a "trapezoid" on their 3 point hitch that is similar to the Log Hog from Norwood (also available from Northern Tool.) I'm planning to assemble one from a 3PT drawbar, Northern Tool's Drawbar stabilizer, some angle iron, and two grab hooks. It will be a multi-purpose device, which can serve as a receiver hitch, a drawbar, as well as a log pulling device. It may not be quite as rugged as a Log Hog, but it will cost me about $150 less. When I get the pieces of this thing together, I'll make a new thread and post photos.

Does your current setup provide a place for a drawbar to attach to the rear end area down low- possibly low enough for you to be below the BH frame when it's attached, so you could put a chain/logging cable to the drawbar for pulling while the hoe is in place? The lower you can go for your dragging of log(s) the better. Center of the differential is best for weight distribution, and for the op from the POV of safety and not risking tipping the tractor over backwards.