Long 610 Oil Leaking/Spitting from Breather Tube

[mat299]

My dad has a Long 610 that sat up for about 6 months and now when we start it, oil spits/leaks out of the breather tube. It is hard to start and runs roughly. You can see the black spot on the grass below the breather tube, that’s about 60 seconds after start (and yes I know it’s a rough looking tractor but before this it worked great). I also have a video but hadn’t figured out how to post it. My thought is that the oil rings on at least one cylinder have given up, but I’m not a diesel mechanic.

I have two questions, first, is there anything else that might cause this? If not, is it advisable to pull the engine down, check the cylinders and re-ring it or should it get a full overhaul? It has a host of other issues and I’m considering whether I should put the money in it or move on. It’s a Long 610 (serial plate show 1582) and the engine s.p. indicates D-121.050.

Any thoughts or advise would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[mat299]

Here's a video of what is happening. It zooms in about 5 seconds into the video.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Could be as simple as a valve stuck open. Take valve cover off. Turn over by hand. See if they all move like they should. I got one nobody could start. 6 of 8 push rods were bent 90°. It sounds pretty solid. I wouldn't jump into a rebuild. The bent pushrod tractor I have is a 1958 model. Once I beat the push rods straight and un stuck the valves, it ran. I also have a 510 LONG. You may have a stuck valve that bent a pushrod. You could have just a valve stem seal that's bad. Fixable from the valve cover. I wouldn't jump into a rebuild unless I have checked compression. Does it crank evenly? Like if you pull the killer and just turn it over, is it an even crank? You can also put automatic transmission fluid in the fuel tank and run it. I've run them old tractors with half a tank or more of used motor oil. Yes I have, yes I do, will not hesitate to do it. But, that will help with stuck rings. And you may have stuck rings.

 

[mat299]

I’m so used to OHC engines I had not even considered a bent pushrod. I’ll pull the valve cover, rotate and and see what that tells me.

I’ll also have to try the crank test this weekend. I want to say it’s not an even crank, like there’s a place it bogs down, but I don’t remember for certain. I have yet to do a compression test but it was on the list of troubleshooting steps.

I am certainly holding off on the rebuild as it had been running well prior to being parked. I’ll report back what I find.

Thanks for the advice!!

 

[mat299]

A quick update on this. I removed the valve covers (it has two small ones that cover 2 cylinders each) and inspected the valves/pushrods/etc. All pushrods were straight and all valves seemed to move freely when I rotated the engine.

I pulled the injectors but was unable to perform a compression test as I couldn't adapt the tester to the tractor. It does crank evenly.

A few more pictures are attached in case someone sees something I don't.

I also noticed that the oil doesn't start leaking out until the engine has been running about 3-5 minutes.Once it starts spitting, it doesn't stop and even continues to run for about 15 seconds after the engine is stopped. It starts up normally (1 crank of about 3-5 seconds). Also, when it starts there is zero white or blue smoke at all.

Hopefully I can find a compression tester that works and get get some resolution on this soon.