I'm looking at a used brush hog but don't know squat. The guy had it for sell for $250. When I asked about it he said it wasn't running he mentioned it could be the shear pin, and said he would take $200 as is. How difficult or bad of a deal is it to fix a brush hog if isn't the shear pin missing? Below I will post a pic of the brush hog, and our conversation to try and keep this short. Thank you for any help, I'm new to this gig, and have alot to learn.
Rotary Cutter looking at a brush hog, I need advice
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searcyfarms
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simple. turn the pto shaft by hand, or with a screw driver stuck in the ujoint if you cant spin it by hand - if the blades don't turn, look to see if the shaft on the end of the pto is rotating or not - if it is and the blades are not turning that is a bad gearbox - if its not turning but the pto shaft is, it could be a shear pin that is broken - its an easy check
Tractorable
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Go check it out and see if you can get a hand on the PTO shaft close to the gear box and turn it to see if the blades move. There’s not much to these bush hogs just a shaft, gear box, and blades. If you can get the blades to move the gear box is probably fine and that thing is easily worth $200. If the gear box is blown walk away.
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
If it has grease in it and everything underneath looks reasonably straight, I would get it. 15 minutes with a grinder and wire brush and another 30 min with two cans of spray paint and you will have a good looking unit.
jaxs
Elite Member
Since he didn't answer your last question, the seller is probably lying by omission. I noticed this is taking place near El Reno where there's lots of farms and ranches. For the price of lunch or coffee,you should be able to find someone experienced that will go with you to check it out.
Jaxs ,that's a great idea. I went and bought a five pack of shear pins from tractor supply to maybe help check this brush hog? Not sure if shear pins are universal, and I've read mixed reviews on the ones from tractor supply, but thought they might work to check the unit. I will try and accomplish everything you guys have been telling me to do. Thanks again
jaxs
Elite Member
The mention of auction coupled with seller's evasiveness turn's me off. I'll put it like this. If you were my boots on the ground buying this for me because I couldn't be there,I would tell you unless you find someone experienced to go with you,lets pass. Now I will tell you my feelings about rotery mowers. Considering your inexperience,even if you buy a new mower,please get an old hand to go over operation before starting the tractor. Despite manufacture's attempts to prevent accidents,a rotory mower is extremely dangerous for the operator and anyone within shouting distance.
Jaxs I appreciate the advice and will probably pass. Couple of further questions. If I could talk him down to $100 by pointing out the potential problems question marks, would it be worth my time to do it and have someone with the knowledge to help me with it? Or would it be wiser for me to get a new unit? I don't want to spend the money on new and I'm sure the brush hogs from places like tractor supply are below par, but just wanting thoughts. I know I'm probably frustrating for you veterans, but I'm trying to learn, and I don't take safety lightly. The only experience I have with one is brush hogging 4 of my acres with my father in laws new JD 3032 with a new brush hog. I didn't have to worry about anything other than operating it safely. Unfortunately he live 3 1/2 hrs away and I have to borrow his trailer to bring it. I don't want him to disown me. Besides he doesn't know a whole lot more than me, he just has more money. ��
jaxs
Elite Member
To your question about getting it for $100. It look's like a solid deck so if indeed it only need's a shear pin,it's worth every penny of $200. If you knew what a gear box costs and had access to a 3/4tr air impact,it might be an ok buy. If you have to hire the gearbox changed or rent tools for diy,you will not come out on top. If taking risk out of buying used equipment could be pulled off on the interweb,unscruplous car salesmen would never be able to sale doctored cars. This is just my opinion,some gave you ways they thought you can test the mower and others might have have additional ideas. The mowers from TSC will mow 4 acres for 15 or 20 years if they are kept clean.
standup616
Bronze Member
If the cutter itself and hitch was in good condition and it only needed gearbox and shaft I would buy and fix. Im a mechanic at heart and an engineering school dropout but where Im at these rust away, and people steal stuff and scrap it so supply demand curve different. this generic exploded diagram of typical rotary cutter shows what you need to look for. Looks like 18 is where the shear bolt would be if equipped. On the gearbox there is smooth shaft with hole that the driveshaft slip on. Id say if shearpin bad, wouldnt take much to slip the shaft off with the pin sheared. If the pin is sheared the bolt head and nut/exposed threads should be gone and whats left of shear bolt left in the input shaft. May need a mallet to bump driveshaft off, if you cant get the shaft off fairly easy it may have spun, galled damaged input shaft and take serious encouragement to remove.
13 is the stump jumper or blade carrier, it should turn without too much resistance if it doesnt turn and not bound because of shaft up top Id say major gearbox repair or replace. Dont cofuse the blades turning on their bolts 14 as the gear box.
Impact not necessary but very helpful in repair replace. some of bolts may be 350ft pounds torque and up for blades and pan so name brand tools with cheater bars can do it
Plenty places online sell replacement and repair parts, Amazon one but they just sell, Ag Supply, Northern , tractor supply may have better support and knowledge getting you exactly what you need not just what you ordered from someone who doesnt know what a spline or shear bolt is.
13 is the stump jumper or blade carrier, it should turn without too much resistance if it doesnt turn and not bound because of shaft up top Id say major gearbox repair or replace. Dont cofuse the blades turning on their bolts 14 as the gear box.
Impact not necessary but very helpful in repair replace. some of bolts may be 350ft pounds torque and up for blades and pan so name brand tools with cheater bars can do it
Plenty places online sell replacement and repair parts, Amazon one but they just sell, Ag Supply, Northern , tractor supply may have better support and knowledge getting you exactly what you need not just what you ordered from someone who doesnt know what a spline or shear bolt is.
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First he says he didn't know it didn't work until the auction, and has no idea why and it could be as simple as a shear pin. Then he tells you he's checked into gear box replacements (which by the way are MUCH more than $170). If it was indeed a shear pin, which is just a common grade 2 bolt, he could have had it replaced and running in the time he spent checking into gear box repairs. It's suspicious he has a second mower and doesn't use this one. I also noticed the photo is dated 2013. I would not recommend this sale to anyone unless they knew enough about BH's to check it out on their own. Could be a great price if its just a shear pin issue. If it's gear box related, I would not consider it at all.
edit: I see now it's not a Bush Hog brand, but a Modern Ag Commando. That's a good brand too, and might be easier to get a replacement gear box.
edit: I see now it's not a Bush Hog brand, but a Modern Ag Commando. That's a good brand too, and might be easier to get a replacement gear box.
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LD1
Epic Contributor
How far away are you.
If you are truly interested just go look.
While for some, a busted gearbox may be a deal breaker, but for me, I'd have no problems putting a cheap china box on it (most are china boxes these days anyway), and running it. But that my require some modification to make a different box work. I am equipped to do a job like that, some arent.
Also, if the photo is truly 5 years old, I am betting it looks alot worse than that now.
This day in age, and being on facebook none-the-less.....why in the world wouldn't you just take a current picture?
If this is a long drive away to get to and the questions are trying to decide if its wroth a drive, I'd pass, but if its close....go look
If you are truly interested just go look.
While for some, a busted gearbox may be a deal breaker, but for me, I'd have no problems putting a cheap china box on it (most are china boxes these days anyway), and running it. But that my require some modification to make a different box work. I am equipped to do a job like that, some arent.
Also, if the photo is truly 5 years old, I am betting it looks alot worse than that now.
This day in age, and being on facebook none-the-less.....why in the world wouldn't you just take a current picture?
If this is a long drive away to get to and the questions are trying to decide if its wroth a drive, I'd pass, but if its close....go look
CobyRupert
Super Member
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
Gear boxes are not that expensive if you look around.
Gearboxes-Rotary Cutter Gearbox | Agri Supply 87854
Gearboxes-Rotary Cutter Gearbox | Agri Supply 87854
Zippo1
Bronze Member
Replacing the gearbox on my 6 foot Modern Manufacturing rotary mower was a simple I task that I was able to do myself. I bought the replacement gearbox ($199 plus shipping) turned the mower over using the tractor and a chain. Removed the cotter pin and nut holding the stump jumper in place. Turned the mower right side up and the stump jumper fell off. Removed the split ring holding the drive shaft to the mower and removed the drive shaft. Removed the four nuts holding the gearbox to the mower deck and lifted the gearbox off. Reversed the procedure with the new gearbox and was back in business. Whole thing took me maybe two hours and none of it was difficult for an old geezer like me. I purchased the replacement gearbox from:
Rotary Cutter Supply | Parts For Your Equipment
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
When buying something used from somebody that you do not know, always look for red flags. A person that isn't being honest will try to remain as vague as possible, but usually slips up in some way. One of those red flags that I've seen over and over again is telling you that it's a simple fix that they just don't have time to do themselves, but until it's done, it wont work. I see this with tractors for sale, that if you just replace the starter, or tighten up the tracks, or install a new hose, it will work just fine. The price is almost too cheap to pass up, but the big question is, why didn't they do the simple fix so they could sell it for a lot more money?
If the bush hog just needed a new sheer pin, which is about $3 and about ten minutes work to install, why not do that and sell it for $600 instead of asking $200?
I replaced the gearbox on my Landpride rotary cutter and it was a pain in the rear end. I had to get it off of the ground high enough to everything. The blades and stump jumper had to be removed first. Mine was so damaged that I just used a torch to cut it all off and then bought brand new everything. If you are replacing the gear box, it doesn't make any sense to put back on old blades and a rusted out stump jumper.
If the bush hog just needed a new sheer pin, which is about $3 and about ten minutes work to install, why not do that and sell it for $600 instead of asking $200?
I replaced the gearbox on my Landpride rotary cutter and it was a pain in the rear end. I had to get it off of the ground high enough to everything. The blades and stump jumper had to be removed first. Mine was so damaged that I just used a torch to cut it all off and then bought brand new everything. If you are replacing the gear box, it doesn't make any sense to put back on old blades and a rusted out stump jumper.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Be prepared to spend a fair amount of time and money to get something like this up to par. Yes, you "might' come out ahead; but, on the other hand you might not: frustrations (tracking down parts etc.) might end up causing you to wonder whether it was really worth it. If you have time, tools and a place to work on it (perhaps a winter project?) then go for it. As I keep telling my wife, just because something is cheap that don't make it a bargain.
ThirdMan
Gold Member
I had the same question about shear bolts and how universal they are. After digging around in some manuals I am pretty sure my cutter uses a Grade 2 (no head marks) 1/2-13 x 3" bolt. There is nothing special about that bolt, it is just a grade 2 bolt of that size that I can buy at the local farm and home store, correct?
Here are some similar links:
