Looking at a used Deere 5310 - a few questions

[hartmacw]

Forgive me if this isn't all exactly in the right forum. I looked a used 2000 JD 5310 with 1207 hours. It had the 9x3 SS trans and 540 FEL. Tires have some life but are 50% or more worn. I tried it out in all the gears, forward and reverse, and it shifted easily and handled great. The machine is at a JD dealer on a trade-in and they want $16K for it. The guy who traded it is the second owner and has only put a few hours on it in the past few years. There are stickers all over the loader arms for several marinas, so I am assuming that's how it was used and I checked it carefully for rust and found some but nothing really major. I did find what looks like an old grease leak on the right side front differential housing that I wanted them to check out. That could be major, and it could be nothing much.

One really big turnoff for me is that the FEL is all run by the dual remotes on the rear of the tractor. There are no mid-mount remotes. So in order to hook up my hay bind I'm going to have to either disconnect the loader or convert it to have mid-mount quick connects. Can anyone comment on a way that I'm not thinking about that this issue could be resolved? And how about the price, in general, for a tractor that appears to be in average condition - not great, not terrible.

 

[JD5210]

I have included a number of URLs on the 5X10 tractors that you may find of interest.

Things I would check, how much free play left on the clutch. Does it have the original cluster if not the hours are not correct. I take it is not MFWD, if you are going to do a much loader work you will miss that it is does not have MFWD. How is the seat, you will not believe how much those cost. On level ground loader up and tractor off and in neutral see, if you can push it a little sometimes the brake retractor has a problem and locks up or causes brakes to drag.

You can put up to 5 SCV on it. You might want to take a look at kit LVLV100117 for a third SCV about $737. I have included the manual on the loader, it is not that hard to take off, also make sure you are getting the parking stands with it sometimes those are missing,

The 3029 is a good engine. My 5210 same engine with the turbo, starts with just the flick of the key.

Here are some sites to check on price tractorhouse.com, machinefinder.com and fastline.com

Good luck, post pictures if you get it.

Manual - Tractor
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE71736_19/
Manual Loader
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMW44993_19/

Leaking Fuel Cap : Solve a leaky fuel cap on some older 5000 series tractors
Loose Muffler on Some 5000 Tractors : Quick fix for loose mufflers or exhaust leaks on certain 5000 series tractors.
Instrument Panel Fogs Up : Fog forms inside instrument panel on some 5000 series tractors, making it hard to read gauges
Tire Tips for 5000 Tractors : Answers to common questions regarding 5000 series tractor tires
Clutch Slip on 5000 Series Tractors : Learn the importance of checking and maintaining proper clutch alignment
Transmission Creep : Tractor ?creeps? forward with gear lever in neutral
Bucket Cylinders do not Extend Equally : Bucket cylinders and loader quick attach brackets are held in alignment by the timing rod.
Mechanical Front Wheel Drive tire recommendations for best performance
Model Year of 5000 Series Tractors : What year was my 5000 series tractor built?
Bent Cylinder Rods : Follow these simple steps to prevent bending hydraulic cylinder rods
Front End Noise : Gear backlash causes noise on 5000 series tractors

This is a John Deere manual on the engine.
http://www.visaevolution.com/dati_sito/manuali/officina/motori/john deere/ctm125-3029-ENG.pdf

 

[hartmacw]

JD5210, that was such a helpful post I don't even know where to start. The tractor I'm looking at is a MFWD, I forgot to include that in my description. The loader has both parking stands and the seat is like new - it's definitely been kept inside most of the time - or recently replaced. The clutch felt OK, admittedly a little soft but I'm not sure on this model how much resistance I should be feeling. Slippage is a hard thing to test on a dealer lot (or anywhere really) because I think a lot of times it won't be noticed until the tractor is under a load. The clutch is a concern because the dealer did tell me that the previous owner mostly used the loader, pushing snow and the like, and depending on how he took his time (or not) and what gear he liked to operate in would help determine the life left in the clutch. I will say that the bucket is nice and straight and doesn't show a lot of wear and tear. The previous owner definitely didn't beat the crap out of it, but on the other hand it does show 14 years of wear. Like I said above, it's an average tractor, not amazing, not junk - somewhere in the middle. However, the clutch is key because I know that's not a cheap repair.

As far as the original cluster ... it looked original to me but I am unfamiliar with this particular tractor. I do know the gas gauge isn't working quite right because it pegs all the way past full whenever it's started. The tach appeared to work. Can you explain what you meant in saying if it's the original cluster the hours aren't correct?

Also, I'd like to point out that one of the links you referenced above answered another question I had that the dealer didn't even know. I could hear an engine noise that didn't sound quite right to me. The salesman could hear it too and tried to tell me it was the parking stands rattling but I knew that wasn't it. The answer: Gear backlash causes noise on 5000 series tractors. That's exactly what it was and a noise that just didn't sound good to me but now I know that's not a problem.

Well, I am still thinking about. Thanks again for the very helpful response.

 

[JD5210]

I have never been sorry that I purchased my 5210.

Just to double check you should not hear that backlash noise when the hydraulics are being used.

If the cluster is NOT the original and it is has a replacement cluster the hours will not be the same, but it sounds like it is. On the fuel gauge if the gauge stays the same way while running, the problem is in the wiring or most likely the sender part number Re190977, which is in the fuel tank, access is from behind the seat. Easy thing to replace, just do not drop the nuts/screws (voice of experience). I would have the dealer move up the seat and disconnect the orange wire from the fuel sender (number on wire is 353) and just put the key in the run position, no need to start it and the gauge should be on empty. You can then ground the orange wire and it should go back to full. I would do it since the clusters are around $550.

If you take a look in the manual under Check and Adjust Clutch Pedal Free Play-CollarShift and SyncShuttle Transmissions? You will see how to adjust the free play and see how much adjustment is left, that will give you a sense about the clutch. You should be ok. To replace the clutch on the 5X10 like must tractors it has to be split in half, does not look that hard to do, if you have the tools and help. You can purchase what is called a clutch pack, which would be the way I would go.

On getting it in and out of MFWD, if it does not just slip in and out. Just a little roll and clutch in, it should go in and out much easier. Also helps if the bucket is empty or at least on the ground. You MUST be stopped to put it in park and the park light on the cluster is non-functioning.

I do not know size of you haybine, but it should do the job and having it MFWD should help some also.

Now that I know it has MFWD I would say 16K is a good price. If you are close on price ask the dealer to throw in 10 gallons of hydraulic fluid and filter or at least see, if it has ever been done. Mine had never been done and the pick-up screen did need to be cleaned.

If you get it and would like to PM me and I share my other experiences with the my 5210

 

[hhsco]

I was WONDERING what that darned noise was on my "new" 5310N and was concerned there was something wrong with the hydraulic pump or something. Thanks for the info! Only had mine for a month but it is similar condition to the one you're looking at. Very pleased with it thus far (especially now that I don't have to worry about that noise anymore)

 

[mo1]

Forgive me if this isn't all exactly in the right forum. I looked a used 2000 JD 5310 with 1207 hours. It had the 9x3 SS trans and 540 FEL. Tires have some life but are 50% or more worn. I tried it out in all the gears, forward and reverse, and it shifted easily and handled great. The machine is at a JD dealer on a trade-in and they want $16K for it. The guy who traded it is the second owner and has only put a few hours on it in the past few years. There are stickers all over the loader arms for several marinas, so I am assuming that's how it was used and I checked it carefully for rust and found some but nothing really major. I did find what looks like an old grease leak on the right side front differential housing that I wanted them to check out. That could be major, and it could be nothing much.

My Dad had a 5410 which was one size up from the 5310 (and used the naturally-aspirated 4.5 L 4-cyl rather than the turbo three) but otherwise was configured identically to the 5310 you list, down to the loader, 3x3 synchro transmission, and two rear-mount SCVs. My Dad had I believe about 1800 hrs on his when he traded it in on a 5083E and got something around what your dealer is asking for that 5310. The front axle has a grease zerk on the right side of the differential IIRC so squirt-out grease from that zerk that may be the "leak" you are seeing. The only problem my Dad had with the tractor was that the fuel gauge stopped working and the dealer wanted something around $700 to fix it, so he didn't.

One really big turnoff for me is that the FEL is all run by the dual remotes on the rear of the tractor. There are no mid-mount remotes. So in order to hook up my hay bind I'm going to have to either disconnect the loader or convert it to have mid-mount quick connects. Can anyone comment on a way that I'm not thinking about that this issue could be resolved? And how about the price, in general, for a tractor that appears to be in average condition - not great, not terrible.

Yup, that's how they generally shipped from the factory. We disconnected the loader's hydraulics to connect the cylinder on the disc, baler, and Haybine. It wasn't that big of a deal but my Dad did eventually get the third (rear) SCV installed because he was tired of disconnecting and reconnecting hydraulic lines.