Looking for a good compact tractor

   #41  

Torvy

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Joined
Jul 21, 2021
Messages
1,302
Location
North East Texas
Tractor
Looking to purchase a Compact Tractor in 30-50 HP range.
The gear drive advantage is in PTO output for the given engine HP. As for HST being 'better'? Some people like them. If your foot cannot stop fast enough on a gear drive, you should no longer be behind a wheel because it is your slow reaction time that is the problem.
 
   #42  

Hermio

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Clarksville, OH
Tractor
Mahindra 5035 HST w/FEL and 4-way bucket; Ford 4110
Having owned geared tractors, and Hydrostatic transmission tractors with treadle pedals and twin pedals. In my experience it takes about 1 full days operations to get comfortable in switching back and forth from treadle pedal designs to twin pedal designs. I sure would not base my whole decision to buy a tractor because I "hate" one or other of the designs. Many here "hate" treadle pedal designs, and they base that "hate" on a 5 minute test drive around the dealers lot. You CANNOT in any way make a valid decision on such a low time test. If you haven't operated the "hated" treadle pedal design at least a full 8 hours, you are just fooling yourself. BOTH designs are just fine. Sure it takes a little getting used to at first, but you CAN adapt. It just requires a little self enforced training. My current tractor is twin pedal design, but I have owned two that were treadle pedal, and they worked just fine.
Ditto. I have had both. I have a mild preference for the treadle pedal, but my Mahindra has a dual pedal design, and I have no problem with it.
 
   #44  

Hermio

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Clarksville, OH
Tractor
Mahindra 5035 HST w/FEL and 4-way bucket; Ford 4110
The gear drive advantage is in PTO output for the given engine HP. As for HST being 'better'? Some people like them. If your foot cannot stop fast enough on a gear drive, you should no longer be behind a wheel because it is your slow reaction time that is the problem.
It is not about stopping. It is about keeping the tractor from flipping. It takes very little time for a tractor to go 90 degrees, or to flip over if you hit an unseen stump. I am talking times of less than 0.5 seconds. Meanwhile, you are being tossed around in a way that makes it unlikely you could even find the clutch with your foot. And don't forget the branches and other debris. It is not like stopping a car.
 
   #45  

finn1

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May 10, 2009
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Upper Michigan, Marana Az.
Tractor
Kioti CK4010 hst, Cab, Deere 26G excavator, K1500 w/ Boss 7’6” plow, F450 dump W/ Boss 10’ straight blade Super Duty plow, F250 reg cab, F350 cc drw, Case TR310 CTL
Actually you are supporting the statement that "weight is most important criteria". You need a machine that can vary weight based on your needs. However that still means it is a very important criteria!

This is the reason Kubota tends to make lighter machines...give the operator the choice. Take a L series, drop the FEL and dont get the rears loaded and you have a really light machine.
All manufacturers make tractors of different frame size and weight. All full line manufacturers anyway.

Kubota isn’t unique here.
 
   #46  

ptsg

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Portugal
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2017 Branson F36Rn (3515R)
It is not about stopping. It is about keeping the tractor from flipping. It takes very little time for a tractor to go 90 degrees, or to flip over if you hit an unseen stump. I am talking times of less than 0.5 seconds. Meanwhile, you are being tossed around in a way that makes it unlikely you could even find the clutch with your foot. And don't forget the branches and other debris. It is not like stopping a car.
That only happens because people that do that have no clue on how to drive a gear tractor.. Instead of choosing the lowest gear and start at idle, they choose some of highest gears, slam that throttle level to the moon and dump the clutch... Obviously bad things will happen.
 
   #47  

4570Man

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Apr 7, 2015
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Crossville, TN
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Kubota M59, Kubota L3800, Grasshopper 428D, Topkick dump truck, 3500 dump truck, 10 ton trailer, more lighter trailers.
That only happens because people that do that have no clue on how to drive a gear tractor.. Instead of choosing the lowest gear and start at idle, they choose some of highest gears, slam that throttle level to the moon and dump the clutch... Obviously bad things will happen.

It’s usually old tractors doing back flips and a lot of the old tractors don’t have very low gears. Also you’re assuming it was hooked on an unmovable object and the operator was prepared for that to happen. You could be dragging logs down a skid trailer and a snag a stump. Are you suggesting you should drive everywhere at .5 mph and hover the clutch just waiting for something bad to happen?
 
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   #48  

Hermio

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Clarksville, OH
Tractor
Mahindra 5035 HST w/FEL and 4-way bucket; Ford 4110
The gear drive advantage is in PTO output for the given engine HP. As for HST being 'better'? Some people like them. If your foot cannot stop fast enough on a gear drive, you should no longer be behind a wheel because it is your slow reaction time that is the problem.
I have used gear drives tractors in the field. No problem. I am specifically cautioning against their use in the woods, for small logging use. It is true that for PTO efficiency, gear is better. But I can run an 8' dual spindle brush cutter with my 5035, which has a bare engine rating of 49 hp, no problem. Anything bigger won't maneuver easily on my woodland trails. Its PTO Hp rating is 41.5 Hp. The gear drive PTO rating is 43 Hp. I don't really notice the loss of 1.5 Hp.
 
   #49  

Hermio

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Clarksville, OH
Tractor
Mahindra 5035 HST w/FEL and 4-way bucket; Ford 4110
That only happens because people that do that have no clue on how to drive a gear tractor.. Instead of choosing the lowest gear and start at idle, they choose some of highest gears, slam that throttle level to the moon and dump the clutch... Obviously bad things will happen.
Bad assumption on your part. I have used a gear drive tractor for over 30 years. I have never operated it the way you describe. Perhaps that is why I am still alive. But what I am talking about is physics, not operator error.
 
   #50  

Hermio

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Clarksville, OH
Tractor
Mahindra 5035 HST w/FEL and 4-way bucket; Ford 4110
Get one of these. I have found it to be enormously useful and makes picking long trees up an ease.

Attach it to your quick hitch, best if via a nice chunky D ring so the cable doesn't get sharp edges on it.
I have used 1/2" cable chokers. I prefer chain chokers, as they are not springy and are easier to rig with grab hooks. They are rather heavy though. I have not broken any designated chain chokers, even though I have exceeded their load rating. I guess they use pretty good chain stock.
 
 
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