Looking for a good compact tractor

[pmsmechanic]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

 

[etpm]

"Loading" the tractor's rear tires with liquid will increase traction in a cost effective way.

Adding wheel weights will also increase traction, though iron weights are much more costly.

MORE ON WHEEL/TIRE BALLAST:

OrangeTractorTalks » Comparing Types of Liquid Tire Ballast

Consider routinely carrying around a Three Point Hitch implement as FEL counterbalance and additional wheel ballast if you need yet more traction. A considerable amount of the implement weight is transferred to the tractor wheels, both front and rear, through the Three Point Hitch.

Before your next tractor purchase consider this: Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

I'm using steel because I can get scrap plate for 40 cents per pound and I have the equipment and skill to make discs from rectangular plate. Right now I use my box blade for ballast but would rather not have stuff sticking out of the back of the tractor sometimes.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[Rdrcr]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

I can understand your assessment if mowing is your primary concern on a well manicured lawn.
However, for most all other tractor work, weight is essential. And, many of us have made the mistake of buying too small/light.

Mike

 

[finn1]

I have a New Holland WM25 with loader that I like very much. The only thing I think is wrong with it is the exhaust is down low so I'm always breathing it in (I hope to adapt a vertical stack soon). Larger tractors in this line have a high exhaust from the factory. I chose this brand because the local dealer treated me well, whereas local Kubota and Deere dealers did not.

For 11 acres you may want something a bit bigger than 25 HP.

You may also want a cab.

Just my thoughts. Happy shopping to you!

A tractor with a DPF won’t have the emissions problems and exhaust odor associated with low powered tractors.

 

[rScotty]

I'm looking for a compact tractor for 11 acres. 5 of those acres have a lot of dead trees we are looking to remove. We have goats and are looking to get more animals, and will need a tractor that can handle those. We also would like to be able to lift and pull a good amount. Any recommendations?

TO THE OP:
You are going to get replies all over the place...confusing, isn't it?

You may want to put the detailed ones aside. To really help with your project we have to know more about it.

Where approximently are you located? What is the ground like? Clay? Gravel? Sand? Do you plan to do any farming or mostly land re-shaping?

Do you normally buy new or used? Own tools? Do you tend to repair your own cars or build your own barn? Or do you hire those kinds of jobs out?

What kind of budget are you looking at?

So if you will give us some information as to who you are, what you want to do, and what the ground is like there, then after a few rounds of questions the folks here on TBN can do abetter job of narrowing down some tractor choices for you.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[mo1]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

Reading what you wrote, tractor weight actually was one of your most important criteria as you sought a tractor "as light as possible" to avoid tearing up your lawn. Tractor weight, either how little or how much, really is probably the most important factor. I submit that turning radius and general maneuverability is #2 for a utility machine, I bet that you would probably agree if you use your machine for mowing.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Reading what you wrote, tractor weight actually was one of your most important criteria as you sought a tractor "as light as possible" to avoid tearing up your lawn. Tractor weight, either how little or how much, really is probably the most important factor. I submit that turning radius and general maneuverability is #2 for a utility machine, I bet that you would probably agree if you use your machine for mowing.

I guess I should have worded that differently. But I have to agree with your take on my wording.

I just started using it again for mowing. So now my wife or son mows with the F-935 and I mow with the 4410. 3 acres of lawn with lots of trees to mow around in about an hour and 15. Two 6' mowers is over kill for that amount of lawn but it's sure nice to be done quick.

 

[SmallChange]

A tractor with a DPF won’t have the emissions problems and exhaust odor associated with low powered tractors.

The tractor whose exhaust I don't like does have a DPF. I never see black clouds, but the exhaust is still irritating. Could be an issue for me just because I have chronic bronchitis.

 

[finn1]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

Focusing solely on weight, as in more is better, is a rather simplistic or one dimensional approach to selecting a tractor. When I bought my ck 4010 Kioti a few years ago, I narrowed my choices to that tractor and a larger framed NX series, after looking at Kioti, Deere, and Kubota.

Deere was out, as they wanted too much money and didn’t want to deal. Take it or leave it approach to selling.

Kubota was out due to the treadle HST control, and a dealer in precarious financial position, reportedly from divorce proceedings.

The CK was a lighter tractor than the NX, but much of my lakefront property had questionable drainage, so I figured the smaller tractor had an advantage. The front snowblower was a little narrower, but the tractor was a little smaller and easier to maneuver near the deck and house, and was a better fit in the garage/shop. The blower and subframe, being slightly smaller, were a better fit for covered summer storage.

Lift capacity and bucket reach were not as good, but still adequate. I can load my small dump truck with no issues other than the limitations of the smaller bucket... it takes a few more scoops to fill the bed with sand.

Biggest downside from my choice of a smaller tractor is the tighter cab and the floor isn’t flat, making the cab a little more restrictive. Additional weight would help when using the box blade, but, again, that’s limited use for me. Snow blowing was my primary objective.

 

[Jchonline]

I'm looking for a compact tractor for 11 acres. 5 of those acres have a lot of dead trees we are looking to remove. We have goats and are looking to get more animals, and will need a tractor that can handle those. We also would like to be able to lift and pull a good amount. Any recommendations?

Tractors are not the best machine (not really close) for clearing wooded areas. Rent a large excavator or pay someone to clear it. After, the tractor is great for maintaining.