Rotary Cutter Looking for a New Brush Cutter

[Soundguy]

Reading your previous posts, it sure looked like you were saying that the mower was going to be more up than down. With this last post, it sounds like the mower is down 95% of the time, and then raised to maneuver around obstacles. That's 2 entirely different scenerieos, and was what I was refering to. It is probably easier to make the mower stable enough for intermittant pickups, vs running full up while being transported..

My ford 5000 easilly picks up my 10'mower weight wise, but I had to hand 420# on the front as it really unloads the front end. As it is now.. I feel 100% comfortable about mowing with it down, and also moving the tractor at mowing speeds with it raised up. I would not run it at transport speeds with it raised up unless I added another 300 pounds or so up front. My 7610s could transport it raised fine.. but is a tad heavier, plus has 640 pounds of weight up front. Those few hundred pounds make a difference in raising at mowing speed, and raising at trasnport speed... that's the point I was trying to make...

That is.. do you really need the extra ballast on the tractor ? it adds to soil compaction, fuel usage, and bearing loads. That's why i try to get away with a good safe counterballance, even if doubling the weight might get me another few percent safety, vs lower efficience int he pasture, damage to the pasture, and wear and tear on the tractor.


Soundguy

Not missing any point, entirely or not.

I'm weighting the tractor for carring the mower RAISED. My 3000 Ford could lug the mower around with the tailwheel ALWAYS on the ground. I'm not running around on a square, flat field. Most of the TIME SPENT mowing for me is cleaning up around the edges of a woods, a creek bank, and a couple hillsides. While I'm on those hills, I have to turn around in a couple rocky areas. That DEMANDS raising the mower and it's tailwheel off the ground. I'm cutting around rock edges of a creek bank. I HAVE to hold the weight of the mower off the ground because sometimes the tailwheel is 8 or 10' in the air when sticking over the bank.

In short, I'm not mowing the same way you are., I have to set up things so they're safe and able to get a job done.

The BB840, with chain gaurds front and back, along with double tail wheels
is a tad over 1500 lbs. The tractor EASILY handle 2500 lb loads on the hitch. NOT when backing over banks, turning on steep hillsides with the mower raised, or a great deal of the mowing it has to do. At least not 100% safe, 100% of the time.

The 2440 weighs in at 7400lbs, weights, fluid, ROPS, ect incl. It isn't overloaded, not even close. (Cousin had a 2440 too. He ran a 10' 3-point mower (on more reasonably "flat ground"))

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I'm not seeking "a few percent safer". It needs to be weighted for the "worst case" portion of the job, The "best case" portions are a breeze. (Most of the place is relatively flat.) On that other 5 or 10%, the mower ends up being a giant "weed eater". A lot of backing over ledges and banks with the mower raised. While doing so, I'm on hillsides. I'm not going to take weights off and put them on every time I switch from one condition to the next. As far as possible damage to the machine, in view of the fact these weights have been on the 2440 since I bought it, in 1978, and there's been no signs of premature wear, I'd say the tractor can handle those weights jusy fine. (Would wear in 28 years use be considered "premature"?)

 

[Soundguy]

IMHO.. you are practicing unsafe mowing practices.. mowong on hillsides, with mower raised, ditches.. etc.

As for weight adding wear.. it's a scientific fact... The more load the tractor totes.. the more it wears.. can't beat physics unless you are 'scotty'.

As I say to most people bent on doing something.. "go ahead".

Soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

IMHO.. you are practicing unsafe mowing practices.. mowong on hillsides, with mower raised, ditches.. etc.

As for weight adding wear.. it's a scientific fact... The more load the tractor totes.. the more it wears.. can't beat physics unless you are 'scotty'.

As I say to most people bent on doing something.. "go ahead".

Soundguy

"IMHO", Hmmmm. Looks like your opinion is for the most part, WORTHLESS. How many THOUSANDS of us do you suppose need to mow on hilly ground? How many of us mow on rocky ground? You think I'm the only person who's ever mowed a ditch bank? Stepping on a lot of toes with that ridiculous "opinion".

Just about every farmer I've known has added front weights to their tractors. Every major manufacturer includes front weight brackets and weights as options on their products. In all the cases I've seen, these tractors are designed and built to accomodate those weights. Sure, they might cause some wear, maybe even enough to measure in a lifetime. But if they weren't supposed to be on the tractor in the first place, don't you suppose the folks at John Deere, Ford, Massey Ferguson, Case, Oliver, Allis Chalmers, ect, ect,.... would have NOT RECOMMENDED them as ballast? Too bad they made such a grievious error. Glad you came along and saved us all from ourselves.

After spending a long, SAFE lifetime doing what I do, I'm sure glad I now have your blessing to "go ahead".

 

[RedDog]

My ford 5000 easilly picks up my 10'mower weight wise, but I had to hand 420# on the front as it really unloads the front end. As it is now.. I feel 100% comfortable about mowing with it down, and also moving the tractor at mowing speeds with it raised up. I would not run it at transport speeds with it raised up unless I added another 300 pounds or so up front. My 7610s could transport it raised fine.. but is a tad heavier, plus has 640 pounds of weight up front. Those few hundred pounds make a difference in raising at mowing speed, and raising at trasnport speed... that's the point I was trying to make...


Soundguy

I use and transport my 12' Bush Hog brush cutter (For Sale) without any weights up front. At first I thought it was because of having the loader up front, but have taken it off and no "wheelies". I was kinda shocked that I have enough weight up front to transport in road gear!!

RedDog

 

[Soundguy]

Is that a 3pt mower.. or a drag mower. if a drag mower.. it's no big deal.. if it's a 3pt mower.. when it is raised .. that's where the front weight comes in.. ( drag mowers always have wheels ont he ground.. 3pt doesn't always.. )

Soundguy

 

[RedDog]

It is 3pt.

RedDog

 

[Soundguy]

Wow.. I don't think I've ever seen a 3pt 12' mower.. got any pics. Who makes it? model #? Age?

Is this a finish mower? or rough cutter, and is full 3pt or semi-mount?

2 spindle, or 3 spindles? front to rear length, and weight?

thanks

Soundguy

Soundguy

 

[RedDog]

Wow.. I don't think I've ever seen a 3pt 12' mower.. got any pics. Who makes it? model #? Age?

Is this a finish mower? or rough cutter, and is full 3pt or semi-mount?

2 spindle, or 3 spindles? front to rear length, and weight?

thanks

Soundguy

Soundguy

Make is Bush Hog. I have it down by the road right now with a For Sale sign on it, and I know it has a tag on it, but I'm to lazy to go down there and read it. Not sure of the age.

We have always called it a "brush-hog". It has 3 gear boxes. Not sure of the front to rear length or the weight. I can pick it up with my loader and pallet forks and not have the rear of my tractor come up. This is with nothing on the rear.

I'll see if I can get this picture up.

RedDog

 

[lawn_king]

I have a Land Pride 60" cutter which I've run pretty darn hard. It's dented up a bit (rocks and stumps), but cuts (pulverizes?) like a champ...therefore, I can recommend Land Pride cutters.

A 60" cutter (standard duty...which is probably all you need) costs about $1100.00.

Agreed, i have a landpride 15 series, very happy with this unit.