jjp8182
Platinum Member
I'm going to agree with what jeff9366 said, and add (if you can) it's worth looking at the shape of the cutting edge(s) as well as the surface of the working surfaces as it generally helps if they are curved/shaped to roll the dirt.
For a box blade to be really effective it helps to not only have the weight to get the implement into the ground, but for it to be able to roll the dirt along (like a large rolling log composed of dirt/soil) rather that just dragging the dirt in a large stack/clump.
Personally I prefer the clevis-style connections on my equipment (and preferably as a Cat 1/2 setup in order to be able to use it with larger tractors) as I find them easier to connect with the telescoping lower-links (I don't use a quick-hitch).
Unfortunately, it seems that *new* high quality box blades aren't cheap and availability of used ones can be very dependent on region.... of course, once you buy one the only thing you may ever need to "fix"/replace is the occasional ripper if/when it gets bent. Which is something I've done, and have a couple spares, but I keep using the bent one since it's still entirely functional (just flipped upside down when not used/needed). .... and maybe a cutting edge if you're using it enough to wear down the edges.
Personally I went with a 6-ft one of EA's Category I & II Severe XTreme Duty Tractor Box Blade - Everything Attachments - though other manufacturer's also make box blades that meet the criteria for weight per ft, moldboard/blade/working-surface shape, and replaceable cutting edges. ...and if/when I do it again I'll probably go with a hinged back version as I've had times where the rear cutting edge was (undesirably) acting as a float.
For a box blade to be really effective it helps to not only have the weight to get the implement into the ground, but for it to be able to roll the dirt along (like a large rolling log composed of dirt/soil) rather that just dragging the dirt in a large stack/clump.
Personally I prefer the clevis-style connections on my equipment (and preferably as a Cat 1/2 setup in order to be able to use it with larger tractors) as I find them easier to connect with the telescoping lower-links (I don't use a quick-hitch).
Unfortunately, it seems that *new* high quality box blades aren't cheap and availability of used ones can be very dependent on region.... of course, once you buy one the only thing you may ever need to "fix"/replace is the occasional ripper if/when it gets bent. Which is something I've done, and have a couple spares, but I keep using the bent one since it's still entirely functional (just flipped upside down when not used/needed). .... and maybe a cutting edge if you're using it enough to wear down the edges.
Personally I went with a 6-ft one of EA's Category I & II Severe XTreme Duty Tractor Box Blade - Everything Attachments - though other manufacturer's also make box blades that meet the criteria for weight per ft, moldboard/blade/working-surface shape, and replaceable cutting edges. ...and if/when I do it again I'll probably go with a hinged back version as I've had times where the rear cutting edge was (undesirably) acting as a float.