Looking for advice

[KU Gator]

That is correct, that only the front tires would go across it before cutting it with a MMM. I just don't understand the issue. It would seem that no wheels going across it would be best from an aspect of getting the best cut.

The rotary rough cut mower is kind a brute force method. There are just a couple of blades going around at very high RPM. The blades are very thick and heavy. The quality of the cut is generally ok for a field. They can go over about anything up to small brush and saplings without much damage to the unit. Keep everyone out of the way as they can through material a long way. I find the disadvantage is they stick out way behind the tractor, so tougher to mow around stuff and at least with the 1/4" valve system on my and I the B3200, as you mow with it, it has a tendancy to sag down in the front and you have to bring the front of the mower up. ChuckinNH has sent me an adjust he says helps with this, but I have not had a chance to try it. If you are only going to mow it a couple of times per year or if you have areas that are rough and you will need to clear such as brushy areas, the rough cut mower is the tool. But on my property, I have used mine once this year and I used it because we had a wet spring and I didn't mow until it was up pretty high. Using it, I don't worry if I run over a branch that fell during the winter and is under the grass.

 

[KU Gator]

With regard to time spent, I can cut it faster with the MMM than the rough cut mower assuming the same width mower. It is just a lot easier to control the MMM so can just go with it and no adjustments. It just boils down to what it out there to run over.

 

[kcook]

That is correct, that only the front tires would go across it before cutting it with a MMM. I just don't understand the issue. It would seem that no wheels going across it would be best from an aspect of getting the best cut.

The rotary rough cut mower is kind a brute force method. There are just a couple of blades going around at very high RPM. The blades are very thick and heavy. The quality of the cut is generally ok for a field. They can go over about anything up to small brush and saplings without much damage to the unit. Keep everyone out of the way as they can through material a long way. I find the disadvantage is they stick out way behind the tractor, so tougher to mow around stuff and at least with the 1/4" valve system on my and I the B3200, as you mow with it, it has a tendancy to sag down in the front and you have to bring the front of the mower up. ChuckinNH has sent me an adjust he says helps with this, but I have not had a chance to try it. If you are only going to mow it a couple of times per year or if you have areas that are rough and you will need to clear such as brushy areas, the rough cut mower is the tool. But on my property, I have used mine once this year and I used it because we had a wet spring and I didn't mow until it was up pretty high. Using it, I don't worry if I run over a branch that fell during the winter and is under the grass.

All this land has hedge apples which are large (like a large orange) and branchs that fall a lot this time of year.

THere are no trees on most of this land until you get to the fence line.

One of the tractors has draft control on 3 pt hitch. Would that be easier than the quarter inch system?

KC

 

[KU Gator]

All this land has hedge apples which are large (like a large orange) and branchs that fall a lot this time of year. - We have hedge apples too. I tend to cut it high enough that it doesn't hit them at our other property. I typically mow it at 3.5 to 4". Branches I pick up if they are big enough to bother me and toss them into the brush.

THere are no trees on most of this land until you get to the fence line.

One of the tractors has draft control on 3 pt hitch. Would that be easier than the quarter inch system? - I would say so. Talk to them about it. I have not personally used it, but my nephew in FL has an L series and he said he could just set it to the height and it would maintain that height. I think the 1/4" system is supposed to be better for fine adjustments.

 

[IslandTractor]

One of the tractors has draft control on 3 pt hitch. Would that be easier than the quarter inch system?

KC

No draft control is not relevant. Position control is an improvement over the quarter inching valve but you'd need to move to the L series Kubota or to a different manufacturer as the B series doesn't have it.

 

[kcook]

No draft control is not relevant. Position control is an improvement over the quarter inching valve but you'd need to move to the L series Kubota or to a different manufacturer as the B series doesn't have it.

THe other tractor is a 3032E I think has it.

KC

 

[IslandTractor]

I prefer position control but there are lots and lots of happy B series owners who live without it. It is desirable but not a deal breaker.

 

[ChuckinNH]

No draft control is not relevant. Position control is an improvement over the quarter inching valve but you'd need to move to the L series Kubota or to a different manufacturer as the B series doesn't have it.

The B2630, and B3030 both have position control, but are also more expensive than the B3200, or smaller B's I have quarter inching, and don't care for it much.

 

[IslandTractor]

The B2630, and B3030 both have position control

Thanks for the clarification. I forgot about the deluxe B models.

 

[ChuckinNH]

Well, they all should have position control, just like the Kioti's. It's too bad that Kubota just assumes that it doesn't matter to folks, but I guess they have the sales figures to give them that confidence. Mine is very sensitive, and I would be delighted if I could actually get slow movement, or 1/4" increments. I would suggest that folks that are going to use this feature try the 3pt with some weight on it before choosing. After a 100hrs of use, I've found my tractor to be about the right size, and weight for the things I have done, or want to do, but it might have been a different color if I had more experience bush hogging, grading, box blading, using middlebusters, and subsoilers before I bought it.