Looking for ideas on how to build the best low to no maintenance deck

[ultrarunner]

My 12 year old Deck is starting to go...

It has me wondering what would be the ultimate Pacific Northwest Deck?

Pressure treated, synthetic planks, red iron joists, concrete sonotube supports or build the whole thing of brown anodized aluminum?

All suggestions welcome.

I've seen some aluminum docks and steps that look like they will be around for a long time... not that I care for the industrial look of aluminum or stainless.

Have a neighbor that spent big bucks on one of the manmade decking materials about 10 years ago... it is a disappointment because it is really weathering and cracking.... the company is no longer around from he said.

 

[bcp]

Several homes around here have taken out raised wood decks and replaced them with concrete slabs at ground level.

I've tried cedar, pressure treated, and untreated. Some of each is rotten in 10 years or still solid after 30. I'm on a hillside, so a slab won't work.

Bruce

 

[Paddy]

Ultrarunner,

We built a home of poured concrete. All floors and even the roof is concrete. The system is quite simple; bar joists are placed 4 ft on center, osb makes the temp deck, wire mesh is placed and then 4 in slab is poured. I have 1500 sq-ft of outdoor concrete deck 14 ft above ground level. It's 8 years old now and as you can imagine, not much different than when new. All our inside floors are stained and sealed. I will eventually do the same outside.

 

[polo1665]

Our wrap around deck is made from Ipe (hardwood from brazil). Supposedly difficult to work with due to its weight and density, but is also insect and rot resistant. Our deck has been in use since 2004 and is holding up very well. Needs occasional (every 3 years or so) pressure washing and staining.

 

[oosik]

I have two small(12x20) decks with construction grade 2x6 planking. Both were built in 1982 and are still solid. About every five years or so I soak them down with some type of oil based outdoor preservative. The difference being - I'm on the dry side of the state, you are on the wet side. My decks do show the effects of use but its not at all that bad.

My aluminum dock has that synthetic(made from plastic) decking material and its still as good as the day it was built in 1998. So, in my case, hot wx and long days in the sun don't seem to bother the decking.

I would suggest the synthetic decking but with the experience you have seen - - ??? I wonder if synthetic materials are any better than they were ten years ago.

You could always use the decking materials used on boats - teak or iron wood - but I'm sure it would be really expensive, if you could even find it. My neighbor has two lawn chairs made of teak. Takes two people to move one because they are so heavy and they do require annual refinishing to look good. But they are both still solid as the rock of Gibraltar. They are 20+ years old and he leaves them outside in the winter.

Talk to a contractor who specializes in decks and see what they would recommend. It could be that you are just going to have to refinish whatever you use every year.

 

[EddieWalker]

Did you build the original deck that is failing after only 12 years? Why is it failing? Dollar for dollar, nothing comes close to PT wood for building a deck. I've found that when a deck fails, it's because too many corners are cut or the person who built it did not understand basic framing, and made too many mistakes. There seems to be a lack of understanding how beams work, why they are needed and how to secure them to the posts. The lack of diagonal bracing is very common around here. Then there is the use of nails instead of screws and bolts. In new, high end homes, I'm seeing the underside of decks being totally enclosed. This leads to mold and rot. Air has to flow under a deck to dry it out.

There is a TV show that builds very expensive decks and they really like using metal for all the framing. I can see the advantages, but doubt I'll ever do something like that due to the additional expense.

 

[KennyG]

When my cedar deck went bad (25 or 30 years old, installed without proper spacing so it didn't drain) I replaced it with Azek composite decking. After 5 years it's great. I power wash it one or two times a year to clear off the dirt and tree sap. I used the original PT framing. It showed no damage.

Composite decking is the best choice in my opinion but you need to go with a name brand. I think the solid composites are better than the formed products with voids. It is expensive but you save on maintenance.

 

[ultrarunner]

The joists and beams are what is failing and an occasional small section of plank.

Previous owners rebuilt it and all wood was milled on site... cedar and Douglas fir.

The 4 x 12 clear vertical fir beams have sections have spots that turned soft and punky.

The 2 x 12 joists are the real issue and losing strength.

Planking is easy to swap out a bad section and has been the least of concern

I have 4 cantilever balcony decks, a wrap around deck that is on grade at the back of the house and 12' above the slope where it ends.

The is a 4 x 12 fir stair case to the lower lever... both treads and stringers... the treads have done well the stingers not...

Seems like return to nature happens at an accelerated rate in Western Washington.

 

[jeff9366]

In hot, humid Florida the deck material of choice is Trex (brand) composite.

LINK: Composite Decking | Composite Deck Materials | Trex

You cannot put a hot Lodge cast iron BBQ directly on the Trex or it will melt into the deck. Ask me how I know.

My seven year old Trex deck looks like the day it was installed.

 

[dodge man]

We redid our deck about 8 years ago with composite decking. Its nice, it isn't so plastic looking and has a slightly rougher finish so its not so slick when wet or when it has snow on it. The problem is a few of the planks are delaminating. It will probably last several more years but isn't holding up as well as it should. They don't make that brand anymore because of these problems I suspect.

 

[dstig1]

I've seen many types. I've lived with PT and cedar. I vowed I would not have a deck that needed that kind of maintenance again. This house, I built the deck to take a double PT plywood deck over PT framing, and then cement board and porcelain tile. The cement board under the tile will be waterproofed with redguard, and I have a roof over every deck. 2/3 decks will also be screened in (state bird = mosquito). It will need cleaning like anything of course but I will not have to deal with mold, staining, rot or any of the BS that comes with decks. It is not as easy to do, but it will last.

It sounds like most or all of your wood was not PT, even the structural stuff. That is probably the biggest reason why you are having issues so soon. Don't make that mistake again. Use PT, and if you can find it, ground contact- or marine- rated stuff is best. Can't always get it in joists and beams though. Posts are more common for that. Without PT in that warm moist climate, it is going to rot fast. PT isn't forever, but it will extend the life a long time, especially if you treat any cut ends - especially any near the ground. Ask any paint store for the PT stuff (local place called it the copper coating as they primarily use copper in PT these days since the enviro-wackos got the govt to ban the arsenic-based PT solution, based on no real science whatsoever).

Another voice in the wilderness. Good luck.

 

[ultrarunner]

30 years ago I rebuilt residential privacy fences and used the green 40 year pressure treated posts... not one issue yet...

At the time I thought it was the greatest thing going and much less than heart redwood.

On the ranch there are some heart redwood with square nails dating back to the late 1800's as is the 1860 barn...

My parents have a tile set in concrete elevated deck... all the steel is heavily galvanized and zero issues... the first owner was a steel fabricator... even the fence post are 4x4 heavy galvanized... only one I have ever seen like it.

Washington can have earthquakes so and massive elevated concrete deck would also require seismic bracing.

I may just end up reducing the deck area...

If I could find a good Trex type plank I have though about welding up steel beams and posts... doubt I could afford for the galvanized stuff like they did years ago.

 

[MossRoad]

...

Previous owners rebuilt it and all wood was milled on site... ...

That's probably why its failing. Its not pressure treated. You guys got wet air down to a science out there. :laughing: Our pressure treated deck is about 19 years old now. The posts and framing is all fine. The decking boards are cupping a bit in some places, but that's my fault for not sealing it well every few years. I think I've only done it twice since new. Should be more frequent.

 

[Midniteoyl]

The problem with failing composite decking is UV. It must have a good amount of high quality UV stabilizer in it. Many didnt (cheap). Composite decking, regardless of what they say, should also be coated with a UV blocker once in awhile.

 

[CreekyB]

I will agree that dollar for dollar nothing beats a properly built pressure treated deck. It need to have proper support, everything must be installed with drainage in mind in wet climates. Major joint areas, notching around beams and attachments to structures need to be flashed properly to prevent rot.

As far as upgraded highend decking goes in my area it is hard to beat Ipe or Cumaru. They are often right at or cheaper than the cost of composites, will last just as long if not longer. They also have the added benefit of being able to refinish if need be. With upgraded decking the supporting structure becomes even more important, you are expecting long service, it absolutely needs to be built properly. And at the end of the day I simply prefer real wood over plastic

 

[jfh28]

there's only two natural decay resistance woods that I am familiar with....cedar and redwood......both of which will be very costly and usually only found on high end homes.......synthetics like trex in my experience are slippery as all get out when wet and almost un-walkable in the winter with ice or snow......the raised wood like pattern they put on them are useless for providing grip........pressure treated is the most common and is usually found made of southern yellow pine......properly constructed the main structural beams and joists should last a long time.....decking will weather from the rain and sun........keep in mind that since they changed the treating formulation galvanized nails are not recommended any longer as they will corrode....same with hangers......you have to use fasteners that are approved for the new formulation on pressure treated woods........Jack

 

[cqaigy2]

We did Azek pvc decking with bankirai rails. Nice things about the Azek is it doesn't get real hot in the sun, no slivers, not having to retreat it every year, very stain resistant doesn't seem to breakdown from UV, yet. It is expensive. We've done some PT decking, but it didn't last as long as i'd hope, but maybe we did something incorrect when installing, probably the same thing others are doing, as their PT decks don't last very long either.

 

[ultrarunner]

I've been reading up on steel framing for decks...

This is one link about it.

Framing Decks With Steel Joists| Professional Deck Builder | Framing, Building Materials, New Jersey

 

[dragoneggs]

I have built several decks for my two homes and for family/friends in the great PNW. Decks around here stay wet for long periods. I have always used PT wood (slit penetrated preservative) for all of the structural beams, posts, and joists with no direct burial of posts. I set them on cement blocks or pouring. No issues in over thirty years. The decking is another story. I always use 5/4 cedar (tight knot because I cannot afford clear 2x4s). This does deteriorate over time and needs to be replaced after twenty years even with preservative stain applied every once in awhile.

My next deck (expansion and resurfacing) on my current home that I plan to die in will be the composite (Trex or equivalent) or the Ironwood that looks so much better if I can afford it. I do want to eliminate the nail/screw penetrations through the top of the decking in any case though. I will still use PT fir for the supporting structure.

 

[Dutch445]

i'm currently building an outdoor farm style table out of IPE,
have plenty of extra drill bits (all holes need pre drilling and pilot holes, and countersink)
i'll start a thread on the build shortly, need to get past the point of no return (changes)
before i post and get everybody's "if it were me i'd ..........."
get enough coming from significant other!!