Looking for my True (Tractor) Love

[NSBound]

Hi Anianna, welcome to TBN - as you're already seeing, you have lots of support and information here! Reading over your posts, I see that a lot of your questions will be answered in what looks to be a great book written by one of the owners of this website - there's a link to it I think on the main page. I actually started to compile a list of acronyms for you, but I see they are included in the book. The best part is, they're offering a huge discounts to members here. Have a look!

Compact Tractor Buying & Basics
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(P.S. - Can you put at least what state you are in, in your profile? It'll help in a lot of cases with information being provided to you! )

 

[Anianna]

Thanks NSBound, I don't know how I missed that. It looks like a great place to start.

Sorry about the profile, I was so excited about learning more about tractors that I entirely forgot to update my profile. I'll get right on that. I'm in rural Virginia northeast of Richmond.

 

[beenthere]

Visit both dealers nearby, and ask for some demo's. I made an easy decision to go with the bigger tires, as the ride is so much better. The demo's helped that realization.

I'd suggest the Deere in the 3000 series or smaller 2000 series with an iMatch quickhitch and compatible attachments. FEL with bucket and forks. But only if the Deere dealer is one you can work with, as the dealer is hopefully your friend when needed.
(and I can't imagine they won't deliver your tractor, and then some, for you).

I've no problem towing my 32 hp tractor on a 7000# trailer with Chevy Trailblazer, so your Dodge Ram will do that fine. May not need to be in a hurry with the trailer until you need it (I usually rent one from my Deere dealer if/when needed and doing that once or twice a year is cheaper than owning a trailer that size).

 

[flusher]

Thank you, flusher and Gary. Both of your posts are very helpful!

@flusher, I do have a riding lawn mower, but it's not currently functioning. It is a Troy Bilt and when it runs, it runs great, but it is forever throwing belts and now the belt won't engage at all. It has to be dismantled to replace the belt and I've had to replace it every single time I mow. It takes two people to put the deck back on after replacing the belt, too, and that can be a problem.

Is it possible to get a mowing attachment for the tractor? If I have to buy another rider, can you recommend a brand that isn't going to be so much trouble?

I do plan on purchasing a FEL (thanks for explaining what that stands for!) at some point; if I don't get it this year I expect to next year. Thank you for the information on that. I had never heard of the SS and that is definitely good information.

@Gary, I hope to do most repairs myself, unless tractors are going the way of many current automobiles where manufacturers are making tasks that were once simple unnecessarily difficult. For example, on my Toyota van, the air filter is shoved back under a bunch of hoses and you have to dismantle all of the hoses and have a special wrench to fit in the tight space behind the air filter compartment just to change the air filter.

A good trailer is something I plan to purchase, sooner if I can afford it, but probably next year. We do have a hardware store down the road that rents such things, so I will have access to one if I really need it.

Yes, finsh mowers are available for lawn mowing chores. Both 3pt and tow-behind versions are available. These mowers run off the rear power take off (PTO) on the tractor. You can get them as low as $600. The good ones are 2-3 times more expensive

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Some tractors like my Kubota B7510HST have a second pto under the driver's seat so you can attach a mid-mount mower (MMM) for lawn work (makes the tractor look like a large riding mower). These MMMs are pretty expensive ($3-4K).

Another option for lawn work is a zero turn radius (ZTR) mower ($2-3K).

Ariens Company Ariens 34 in., 344 CC Briggs & STRATTON, Hydrostatic Zero Turn Mower, 91513100

If you buy a new tractor, you generally can get a better price on an FEL if you get it as part of the package rather than retrofitting it onto the tractor later.

 

[flusher]

One additional suggestion: think about getting hydraulic remotes on your tractor. They come in handy for implements that need hydraulics to operate. Here's what they look like on my Mahindra 5525.





My dealer installed these when I bought the tractor ($750, a really great price). The usual setup is dual hydraulic remotes. YOu can see the hydraulic hoses that connect the tractor hydraulics to the hydraulic cylinder on my grain drill (a type of planter for hayfields)

 

[TripleR]

I can't put it any better than Island tractor. When I bought my last new tractor, I "wanted" a slightly bigger model, but after considering what my machine's primary uses would be, I went with a SCUT and have been very happy. I have bigger machines thee miles away at another property, but haven't had to bring one up here except a couple of times when my health required a AC cab.

We have learned that sometimes renting a dozer or something is easier or cheaper than buying a machine just for one or two projects.

I believe a SCUT or CUT could meet your needs if you want to own only one machine, but if you don't mind the cost and maintenance on a mower and tractor then go with a bigger tractor.

Just an opinion.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a big Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 I expect to do the hauling with. I will definitely do some more research on trailers. Thank you!

When I make my initial purchase, will a dealer deliver the tractor or will I need that trailer right away? That will add significant cost to my tractor purchase that I will have to take into consideration with my budget.

Depending on just how far away and what local practices are I'd say that you can expect the dealer to deliver your tractor without charge. Half an hours drive should not result in any extra charge from a dealer. Two hours might well.

 

[IslandTractor]

A SCUT is an option, but I do have other applications planned for the future I am concerned a SCUT can't handle. For example, the previous owners left a lot of garbage on the property; stuff like chunks of concrete and piles of broken brick. Also, it appears there once was a barbed wire fence on the property and when they were done with it, they simply yanked it out, wadded it up posts and all, and bulldozed it into the woods. I would really like to get that taken care of at some point. Some other projects I am considering for the future include digging a root cellar and putting up a fence for animals.

My hope is to get a tractor that will meet all of those needs and last me a good long time. Would you still consider the SCUT for these applications or would you go ahead and go for the CUT?

How do you spell GRAPPLE??

Removing debris from piles or moving scattered debris into piles is a common task for a new landowner. The need for an FEL is obvious for such a task but you also need to deal with how to clamp objects (rather than dirt) into a FEL bucket. There are a number of solutions depending on how much of this sort of work you will do and what your budget is.

Hands down the single best option is a detachable grapple. That can be purchased/delivered for about $1000. To attach the grapple you need what is called variously a QA (Quick Attach) or Skidsteer adapter or universal adapter (all synonyms for the same thing). Cost of the QA adapter depends on the tractor. Some companies (Kioti for example) provides them free with tractors 27hp and up. Dealers sell add on adapters for Kioti's smaller tractors (CK20) for about $350 or so. I don't know what such an adapter would cost for a Kubota or JD but I gotta believe someone is out there selling them.

If you don't want to deal with the QA adapter then there is another worthwhile option and that is to convert your standard bucket (part of the FEL package) into a "grapple bucket" by adding just the top arm of the grapple. This gives you a 2 in 1 tool (bucket and half grapple) that is very useful but not quite as flexible as a true grapple. Still, if your main use for a grapple is to clean up one major mess as you describe, that could be a very reasonable solution. You could either have the dealer install a grapple arm (arm costs about $350 or so, welding on to the bucket would probably cost a couple hours labor). Another option is a bolt on kit that you could easily install at home with a drill and a few wrenches. Those cost a bit more ($600 or so) but are flexible in that they allow you to remove the grapple part in a couple of minutes so it is not in the way when you don't need it. While less effective in moving brush and poles than a true grapple a bucket grapple is at least a thousand times better than trying to do that job with just a bucket and chain.

Whichever grapple type you choose, you'll need to run hydraulics to control the open/close of the upper grapple arm. The cheapest and perfectly satisfactory way to do this is to use the tractors rear remotes. That obviously requires rear remotes which dealers can install (parts about 350-500, probably a couple hours labor). Some tractors come standard with at least one rear remote. Once you have the rear remote you just need to get a hydraulic shop (or your dealer) to provide you with the appropriate length of hydraulic hose and matching fittings ($100-150) so you can run the hydraulic lines from the rear of your tractor (that is why they are called rear remotes) to the grapple. Lots of posts on TBN about the details of doing this. Takes about 20 minutes once you have the hoses/fittings etc. Again, dealer can do it for peanuts. Once you have everything set up you open and close the grapple from a lever that typically is just next to where your right hand will rest while sitting in the operator station. As my 7 yo daughter would say, easy peasy. There are other options for controling the grapple which involve tapping into the hydraulics that supply the FEL. Those options are all more expensive and might be worthwhile if you plan lots of grapple use but are definitely not the cost effective solution for occasional grapple use.

There are literally days of "what grapple" "what remote" "how to set up grapple controls" reading on TBN but the summary above should give you a pretty good idea of what is involved.

Pictures are of a grapple on a 20hp CUT. You don't need a huge tractor to use one of these effectively. There is a bucket grapple weldable arm and a bolt on kit shown too. Those (the bucket grapple types) can also be added to a SCUT without difficulty.

 

[77bronco]

Flusher: Did your remotes come as a kit? What brand are they? That looks like what I'm wanting to add to my tractor, since I only have one set of remotes, and the FEL is using those.
Sorry for the hijack, but I've been looking for a way to add more remotes at a reasonable price for awhile now...

 

[flusher]

Flusher: Did your remotes come as a kit? What brand are they? That looks like what I'm wanting to add to my tractor, since I only have one set of remotes, and the FEL is using those.
Sorry for the hijack, but I've been looking for a way to add more remotes at a reasonable price for awhile now...

No kit, just a custom design that my Mahindra dealer (Dave's Tractor in Red Bluff CA) fabricates in-house and offers to his customers. It works off the power beyond port on the FEL valve unit.

The control valve for the rear remotes is a triple unit from Dinoil. The female quick disconnects are Pioneer 3/8" size. Dave fabricates the brackets that attach the valve unit and the QDs to the fender. He also fabricates the 3/8" hydraulic hose. You can get all the stuff you need from places like Surplus Center to DIY.