Looking for opinions on lesser of two evils.

[MrWhippy]

Last October we bought a new Workmaster 55 with FEL and backhoe attachment. The tractor cosmetically looked (and still looks) great. It runs great. However, when it was set up, the mechanic used some wrong bolts and stripped out several bolt holes where the backhoe and FEL attach to the tractor (cast iron casing).

We've come down to two options offered by the dealer.

1. They'll split the tractor, put in a new cast iron casing piece.

or

2. They'll swap for a new tractor (plus some cash from us due to the number of hours on our tractgor---192).


My problem with number 1:

The dealer's mechanic couldn't put 12 correct bolts in the tractor, I don't really trust them to split the tractor and get everything back together properly aligned, leak free, and with the electrics undamaged. I know it's not a technically difficult process, but it does require attention to detail (like noticing when you're putting the wrong pitched bolt in a threaded hole)


My problem with number 2:

The tractor they want to swap with has a high number of cosmetic issues. Rust coming from the valve stem holes, rusted up adjustment rods, faded paint and evidence of a poor spray can repaint. Also, the transmission was extremely low on oil (nothing on the dipstick) when I went to inspect it. The dealer says they'll take care of detailing the tractor, and that they have no other WM55's, with new ones coming in a few months (around the first of the year). Honestly, my tractor looks MUCH better than this one:

Rust:

Clutch adjustment rod:

Faded paint on top:

One rusty wheel:

Second rusty wheel:

Scratched and retouched tansmission case:

So what would you do? Honestly, I don't like either option. I don't know what my other options here are. I don't want a prolonged fight, I just want the tractor I purchased (condition-wise) with undamaged FEL/backhoe attachments.

 

[RDrancher]

I'd choose number 1 myself...plus a free loaner tractor to use while they're fixing it. I doubt if they'd put the same mechanic on your tractor twice and risk having to do it again.

 

[jinman]

Wow! It looks like you are caught between the proverbial rock and a hard place. I think with your description, I'd go with the first option. In that case, the dealer and you will be putting the eagle-eye on the mechanic's work. You'll only have changed parts where needed and you'll get back a tractor without cosmetic meltdown. If you go with the 2nd option, you'll find only your small voice complaining about cosmetics. Traditionally, cosmetic problems on tractors are considered small potatoes, so you'll be labelled a complainer if you raise too much stink. I'd go with the first option and try to get satisfaction that way. The dealer does not want (can't afford) to keep replacing major assemblies on your tractor. You'll also have a record of what was done if you have problems associated with the change-out.

 

[dave1949]

I like Jim's reasoning for staying with your current tractor (#1)

The replacement machine looks like it was hauled across country on salty roads at a minimum, or sat in ocean air somewhere. Or something, that rust doesn't seem normal.

It could be the person who setup your hoe for delivery isn't the one who will do the split. Sounds like they took an air tool and ran the bolts in zippity-doo-dah.

 

[MrWhippy]

So, here is an option I've thought about:

1. Have them swap my wheels onto this tractor AND they fix the paint issues/ replace rusty adjustment rods.

My reasoning? The cosmetic stuff is just cosmetic. Properly cleaned up and repainted, it should hold up fine. The rod threads are another matter and really need proper attention. As Jinman says, it's just cosmetic--except for the wheel rust, which to me, is a red flag warning of future problems with those rims. But dave1949 raises a good question: Am I looking at a lot of future corrosion issues with option 2?

I guess I would rather have them swap wheels than split a tractor, but honestly that has as much to do with trust.

 

[MrWhippy]

I like Jim's reasoning for staying with your current tractor (#1)

The replacement machine looks like it was hauled across country on salty roads at a minimum, or sat in ocean air somewhere. Or something, that rust doesn't seem normal.

It could be the person who setup your hoe for delivery isn't the one who will do the split. Sounds like they took an air tool and ran the bolts in zippity-doo-dah.

The guy who came to initially evaluate the problem came to the exact same conclusion.

 

[oldnslo]

Dumb question but... How low was the tranny on the replacement tractor and how much was is driven / used in that condition? If only one gallon in a 20 gallon system I would not be to concerned. If one gallon in a three gallon system that would make me nervous. NOTE: Numbers are just for examples.

Rust as others have stated could be from shipboard transport and sitting on a dock.

Tough decision but would the dealer let you use the new one on a trial basis for a period of time to confirm the tranny is not damaged?

best of luck

Roy

 

[MrWhippy]

Dumb question but... How low was the tranny on the replacement tractor and how much was is driven / used in that condition? If only one gallon in a 20 gallon system I would not be to concerned. If one gallon in a three gallon system that would make me nervous. NOTE: Numbers are just for examples.

Rust as others have stated could be from shipboard transport and sitting on a dock.

Tough decision but would the dealer let you use the new one on a trial basis for a period of time to confirm the tranny is not damaged?

best of luck

Roy

Well, the replacement/new one would come with a full new warranty. The transmission holds 6 gallons, but the tractor only has 5 hours on it, so that concerns me less.

 

[aczlan]

I would see if you can get them to swap the rims over and free up/grease the clutch adjustment threads.
It looks to me like the rust on the rims is from the valvestems rusting and is not the rims themselves rusting.

Aaron Z

 

[creekbend]

I would see if you can get them to swap the rims over and free up/grease the clutch adjustment threads.
It looks to me like the rust on the rims is from the valvestems rusting and is not the rims themselves rusting.

Aaron Z

I agree with the appearance of the valve stems rusting. I remember reading an article in Popular Mechanics where 6 million valve stems were recalled that were made in Red China. I don't know if those valve stems shown were made in that Country. I do agree that the rust appears to be from the valve stem itself.