Looking to buy around 40hp

KevinW · Sep 27, 2005

Hey Fellow Tarheel,

After my investigating, I'm going with the KAMA which has shuttle shift. I found a special on the KM554, 4x4 50HP w/Koyker 195 FEL.

GO HEELS!!

inveresk · Sep 27, 2005

Is that front mudguards I see? I take it there's also a 4 speaker cd player and an upgrade option to leather . . .

strokerduster · Sep 27, 2005

every time you post this obvious sales ploy, it gets fuglier and fuglier.

Bob_Skurka · Sep 27, 2005

KevinW, are you a dealer or just a troll?

You keep making similar posts in various threads, you place inline photos, and you say the same things. What is the deal?

Egon · Sep 27, 2005

Tarheel:

When choosing a tractor also think into the future. The present mower and baler may not last forever and have to be replaced.

Egon

hunterridgefarm · Sep 28, 2005

Tarheel,
I am in a similar situation. I have 50 acres that is 80% wooded but also have 50 acres of family land attached that I will be doing hay work on in 1-2 years, once new house is built.
This has given me a good amount of time to search this site and talk to people in my area that put up hay. One thing I have not seen address is the weight of the tractor in relation to the hay baler. I am not the one to address it but I am sure others on this site with experiance can. The TC48 my be kinda light to pull a baler from what I have read on this site.

However I don't know how much the Ford 3000 weights but it is most likely more than the TC48. Others can address this.

I have been looking at JD, NH, and Kubota for the same reasons as you. I had experiance on Ford 600 and 8N and can tell you when I bought the Kubota L3130 I thought I was driving a Lexus when comparing.

I am not partial to any one brand and in my area JD, NH and Kubota are the main choices I have. I am currently looking at NH TC55, TN60 - TN75, JD 5xxx-5425, and Kubota M4900-M6800. All of these should meet the need for haying and I hope to purchase by spring of '06.

As is always suggested go and look at all 3, sit on, drive, talk to others that own them and find what fits "you". I have driven each brand I am looking at several times and each time I find something I like or dislike. So I have to decide which brand fits "me".

Have you considered a cab? That is another area I am looking at as NC is hot and humid.

What part of NC are you in?

You will get alot of advice on this site from experienced people that can lead you in the right direction. I have been reading for two years and just registered a few months ago. And as you can tell from my number of post I still read alot more than I post.

Soundguy · Sep 28, 2005

Uh-oh.. finally one I can answer /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

( I don't know how much the Ford 3000 weights but it is most likely more than the TC48 )

The 3cylgas ford 3000 was right around 3700#.. don't have specs in front of me for the 48.. but would guess that the 48 may be as heavy or heavier. My NH 1920 was 3300 or so.. and was 33ish hp that's inbetween a tc 33 and tc 40 if you had to place them muscle to muscle. the tc 48 sounds like it is more in the class of a 2120 that about 4500# or so.

( I had experiance on Ford 600 and 8N and can tell you when I bought the Kubota L3130 I thought I was driving a Lexus when comparing )

Well.. I guess so! Hard to compair a 50+ year old tractor that cost a couple thousand dollars to a shiny new one that cost ?13+k$? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Soundguy

hunterridgefarm · Sep 28, 2005

According to NH web site the TC48 with AG tires weight: 4158 lbs.
For my information: Would this weight work good pulling a bailer? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I ask because on this site I have read that the utility size tractors are better suited. And I am still gathering information from more experienced people like yourself.

 
Comparing the cab to the 600 would be like riding in the space shuttle. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Soundguy · Sep 28, 2005

When you are in a CUT tractor.. and you are on the upper end of the hp range.. you can pul a bailer.. but then you get the 'tail wagging the dog' due to weight. Once you get up into the UT / cat 2 tractors around 50hp or so.. that all kind of equals out.. especially on the older tractors that may have been heavier. For instance.. I know many people that did hay with a JD-b.. that's a 28hp machine.. however.. the late models with cast wheel centers weighed over 4000# dry. Weight makes a big difference.

I'd base my 'hay' tractor on what bailer I was looking at and then size them from there.

While I'm sure the 48 will power the bailer and operate it.. at an 'adequate' level, I'm not sure where the 'satisfactory' level is hit. Probably a slightly bigger machine would be 'better'... but then.. where do you stop... bigger.. heavier.. more $$ ..etc.. sky's the limit.

My thinking is that if you found a small bailer.. or one with lower requirements.. and as long as you met or exceeded the hp range.. that the weight was at least close enough for you to add wheel weights, frame weights, bumper suitcase weights and wet tires to make up the difference.

Soundguy

Varmintmist · Sep 28, 2005

Thats pretty much it. It depends on the baler.

If you are running a small square baler driven by a pony motor on flat ground, you can get away with a small CUT, all you would have to do is pull it around. But when is the last time you saw a baler with a pony motor? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

If you want to round bale I think the min for the little bales is 40 hp at the PTO.