i "misplaced" the instructions for mounting the toothbar (JD) to my 61" HD bucket on my 300CX loader. does anyone know what size hole i am supposed to drill? i could figure it out but want to make sure i use the right bit. also, anyone have tips on the procedure for properly drilling in metal this heavy, i have never done it. thanks.
lost the instructions for mounting my toothbar
- Thread starter jmt1271
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My 2520 has the JD toothbar (61") mounted on the bucket. The bolt is centered in the rearmost slot, when the toothbar is in place. It appears to be a 5/8" x 2" grade 8 bolt (probably metric) with a self-locking nut . This toothbar is the same for the 300/400 series loaders. Use some tapping oil on the drill after you've center punched the spot, most any ole oil will do in a pinch. I'll try to attach a photo.
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texasjohn
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I mounted a JD toothbar on my Kubota bucket. Drilled holes to match the size bolts that came with the bar. Holes need to be slightly larger than the bolts because you want to be able to easily remove the bolts and toothbar when you want to use just the FEL without toothbar. The blade of the FEL fits completely against the front of the notch in the tooth.. completely seated and press fit mount... must hit with 3lb sledge to move after bolts have been removed. Toothbar is .5 inches too narrow to fit exactly against the sides of the bucket... I fill the gap with washers and snug the bolts down real tight. Never a problem.
SPYDERLK
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I think you will want to position the bolt holes such that, as the bolts are inserted they force the toothbar into a position locked against the blade of your bucket. This says that the holes in your bucket should be just beyond the position that would result in a slip fit. Position the toothbar in the bucket, fixture it with clamps and tap it with a hammer until it is as tight against the bucket as you can get it. Mark your holes for a perfect slip fit. Now move your mark a little further toward the back and bottom of the bucket so that there will be some interference as the bolt transits between hole and slot. For a 5/8 bolt I suggest re marking about 1/16" from the original mark, on a line angled down and back at about 45 degrees. For easier handling of the larger drillbit it will be helpful to pre drill your marks with a 3/16" bit. Do not go larger than this because a larger pilot hole may cause the large bit to chatter. As small as a 1/8" pilot would be ok. Alternately you could use one of the step type Uni-Bits. They dont chatter, but areusually limited to 1/8"deep steps. Yould have to go from both sides.jmt1271 said:
If you get the hole positions just right you wont be able to get the bolts all the way in by hand - they will bind slightly as they cross between the bucket and the bar as the interference positioning pulls the bar hard against the bucket. Dont hammer - turn them with a wrench - the threads will take them on in until you can get the nuts on. These are very hard bolts. The bucket metal will give enuf to accomodate the slight mismatch. If to decide you have too much interference you can fixit quickly by filing in the proper direction with a rat tail. This type of setup will assure that your toothbar cannot move, whereas if there is no interference, or worse, if there is clearance you have to rely on bolt tightness alone to prevent the bar from slipping.
Have fun!,
Larry
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jmt1271 said:
jmt1271,
A good way to ensure the toothbar is sitting as snug as possible on the edge of the bucket is to clamp it into position using furniture or pipe clamps and a couple of C clamps or K-Clamps. Then go about the drilling process as described.
RoyJackson
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jmt1271 said:
I drilled pilot holes starting with a 1/8th" bit, and working up to ¼", then used a ¾" bit for the final hole size. I'm using 5/8th's bolts (coarse thread) with large flat washers.
If your tooth bar has a mounting slot rather then a hole, drill your holes at the front (nearest the edge of the bucket). The slot allows one to loosen and pivot up the tooth bar to allow back dragging with the loader bucket's cutting edge.