hoozie
Bronze Member
This is the tractor from this thread. Another backhoe model number decode request
I checked the compression on it, and it's not good. 150/150/210. So that's why it won't start
His story is that it started to overheat and bubble over, then he drove it to its parking spot, where it was "really" bubbling over and blowing out of the head gasket externally.
I did a leak down on cylinder 2, and got about 95% leakage into the crank case. (both rockers were loose, indicating the valves are closed, even though the cylinder wasn't at TDC because I don't have a great way to crank the engine over by hand yet). I didn't bother doing a leak down on the other two cylinders.
My best case plan was to just replace the headgasket. Now it looks like the rings are cooked, so now the best case is the cylinder walls aren't messed up
Is there anything else I should check before pulling the head? The bore scope I have just has a forward facing camera, so I can't see the cylinder walls. I just ordered one with a side camera to see the bores better.
Oil is fine (no milkshake). The coolant system held pressure all day, then lost it over night. I don't trust the tester itself to not have lost the pressure though.
I took some video of the process to test the compression and do the leakdown test, and the adapter I needed. I haven't found anything other than a couple forum posts saying what they thought the proper tool was, so hopefully that will help someone. I may do a few videos of the entire process of the in frame rebuild too.
I checked the compression on it, and it's not good. 150/150/210. So that's why it won't start
His story is that it started to overheat and bubble over, then he drove it to its parking spot, where it was "really" bubbling over and blowing out of the head gasket externally.
I did a leak down on cylinder 2, and got about 95% leakage into the crank case. (both rockers were loose, indicating the valves are closed, even though the cylinder wasn't at TDC because I don't have a great way to crank the engine over by hand yet). I didn't bother doing a leak down on the other two cylinders.
My best case plan was to just replace the headgasket. Now it looks like the rings are cooked, so now the best case is the cylinder walls aren't messed up
Is there anything else I should check before pulling the head? The bore scope I have just has a forward facing camera, so I can't see the cylinder walls. I just ordered one with a side camera to see the bores better.
Oil is fine (no milkshake). The coolant system held pressure all day, then lost it over night. I don't trust the tester itself to not have lost the pressure though.
I took some video of the process to test the compression and do the leakdown test, and the adapter I needed. I haven't found anything other than a couple forum posts saying what they thought the proper tool was, so hopefully that will help someone. I may do a few videos of the entire process of the in frame rebuild too.
