Low vis vs. Hygard

[ducks13]

My 4410's manual says the recommend low vis but then they have a temperature chart that says ony use low vis to 80 degrees F. and that seemingly Hy-gard should be used for higher temps and it is suppose to be good down to 0 degrees F. My dealer (parts man) says they put low-vis in everything. I live in NC were it very rarely reaches 0 and if regulary exceed 80 degrees. Does any one know the pros and cons of the different fluids.

 

[JDdude]

This is the best stuff I know of...

http://www.archeroil.com/images/Spec/transimission.pdf

 

[greg_g]

HyGard is similarto (if not the same as) the old JD303; a 20W30 viscosity equivalent. Low Viscosity HyGard is a 10W20. Here in western Kentucky I'm plannin' to stick with the 10W20 stuff that was in the tractor when it was delivered.

//greg//

 

[Tx Jim]

HyGard is just the old JD303, it's a 20W30 viscosity equivalent. Low Viscosity HyGard is a 10W20. //greg//

JD Hy-Gard replaced 303 but I think it has more wear additives than 303. Also the chart I looked up stated it is 5W30 not 20W30. Here's a quote from JD's website
[: "Hy-Gard oil can be used in most applications calling for 10W-30 or 5W-30 engine oil for transmission and hydraulic oils. ]

 

[greg_g]

I was merely repeating the response I got when I asked the same question at the John Deere parts counter. So if HyGard is 5W30 as you claim, what does that make Low-Vis; 0W20? Any chance you can provide a link to that chart?

//greg//

 

[mfreund]

I live in Iowa and have a 4310. I use low vis for all my past and present tractors. I have used the 4310 from - 40 to 110. When this question was hashed over a while ago, someone said you could even mix the two for a "custom" level of protection. All the oil threads go on forever. Believe what you want on the internet.

 

[Tx Jim]

I was merely repeating the response I got when I asked the same question at the John Deere parts counter. So if HyGard is 5W30 as you claim, what does that make Low-Vis; 0W20? Any chance you can provide a link to that chart?

//greg//

Sorry as I computer illiterate at posting links. Go to JDparts.com,click on parts and scroll down on LH side of page to "lubricants"

 

[greg_g]

Sorry as I computer illiterate at posting links. Go to JDparts.com,click on parts and scroll down on LH side of page to "lubricants"

Yeah, I think you're confusing HyGard with something else. Here's the Lubricant Chart, there's no mention of HyGard viscosity at all. And if you follow the HyGard link, you'll see them describe Lo-Vis as AW32 and HyGard as somewhere between AW46 and AW64. That's more consistent with my description of Lo-Vis as a 10W20 and HyGard as a 20W30

Note also the temp graph that show both good to +122F in the summer. But come winter. HyGard is rated to about -13F, whereas Lo-Vis is rated down to -40F

//greg//

 

[Tx Jim]

Greg
After working for a JD dealer for over 20 yrs and then running JD equip another 20+ yrs I know what Hy-Gard is just looked at wrong spec's.Must have been caused by my Oldtimers disease. You were correct as it has a 20W rating

 

[ducks13]

Greg.

Where is the temp graph that shows them both to be good to 122? This is the one in the 4410 manual.

 

[greg_g]

Seems you didn't bother to follow those links I posted.
"PMB10102: For commercial and consumer applications, the temperature range for Low-Viscosity Hy-Gard is 40ｰF (-40ｰC) to 122ｰF (50ｰC)
*Check the operator’s manual for specific applications. Some applications are restricted in this temperature range".

Note the "*". Since your manual has a different chart - and assuming it's not unusual for temperatures in your area to exceed 68F - you apparently have a tractor that should use the thicker HyGard.

//greg//

 

[ducks13]

Greg,

I followed the link and didn't find the chart, that is why I asked. I took another look, still no chart. This one seems to come up missing some illustrations, not sure why.

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/4968_fb_HyGardsTransmissionHydraulic.htm

 

[greg_g]

This one seems to come up missing some illustrations, not sure why.https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/4968_fb_HyGardsTransmissionHydraulic.htm

It's there, same diagram that I posted above. You've just got something set wrong in your browser.


//greg//

 

[Rob-D]

I just changed my hydro here in the Catskills where the temp goes from well below zero to the mid 90's. The chart in my 3320 shows low vis. Hy-Gard from -40 to over 100F for the tranny and front axle.
What I think is creating some confusion with the different charts is that Deere changes emulsions but still calls it "Hy-Gard".
Anyway, I've been using lo viscosity HG for years and will continue to do so.

I did run Amsoil in my first tractor but, guess what? It wasn't half as good. It had a higher rate of expansion and made my hoses tough to get off, I was always 'cracking' the line to relieve pressure to get things apart. Also the Amsoil smelled like it was burning when I was working the machine or BH hard.

To each his own but I use Deere exclusively. In my engine I'm using the Deere Plus 50 two synthetic. Not cheap but everyone raves about it.

Rob

 

[Runner]

Since I run my machine MUCH more when it's above 80 degrees, than when below 32, I use regular HyGuard.

What I have never heard, is a discussion on WHY it makes a difference?

When I went to the dealer and tried to buy the "thinner" motor oil recommended in my 2520 manual (10w-30), they looked at me like I was from outer space and said "the only motor oil we use or sell is 15w-40".

So, if "thicker" motor oil is "better", why isn't it that way with the hydraulic oil?

I could understand using thinner oil in someplace like Alaska, i.e., regular operation in extreme cold, but it seems to me that most of the lower 48 ought to be ok with thicker hydro oil unless the only time you use the machine is winter.

So far, I haven't seen any ill-effects from using the regular HyGard in Missouri weather, which runs from about 0 to 100 degrees.

(by the way, I'll bet JD has a whole department that just sits around thinking up catchy product names with phonetic spellings, Quick-Tach, iMatch, etc.)

 

[Rob-D]

Since I run my machine MUCH more when it's above 80 degrees, than when below 32, I use regular HyGuard.

What I have never heard, is a discussion on WHY it makes a difference?

When I went to the dealer and tried to buy the "thinner" motor oil recommended in my 2520 manual (10w-30), they looked at me like I was from outer space and said "the only motor oil we use or sell is 15w-40".

So, if "thicker" motor oil is "better", why isn't it that way with the hydraulic oil?

I could understand using thinner oil in someplace like Alaska, i.e., regular operation in extreme cold, but it seems to me that most of the lower 48 ought to be ok with thicker hydro oil unless the only time you use the machine is winter.

So far, I haven't seen any ill-effects from using the regular HyGard in Missouri weather, which runs from about 0 to 100 degrees.

(by the way, I'll bet JD has a whole department that just sits around thinking up catchy product names with phonetic spellings, Quick-Tach, iMatch, etc.)

Runner,
I think you make a good point about dealers sticking to what's been done in the past without thinking about what's best for each specific application. More than once I've known more about my tractor than the dealer. We're a knowledgeable group here.
I asked my friend to pick up oil for my tractor and she came back with the dealer recommended 15-30. I went back and ordered the Plus 50 ll. They had to look it up, didn't carry it, and didn't know much about it.

Caveat emptor.

Rob