Loader LS Loader Performance

[J_J]

How come you guys are not posting any pressure readings.

First, you have to know what the pumps max pressure is before adjusting the relief pressure.

If you would tee a 3000 psi hyd gage in the IN port , you can monitor, adjust reliefs and trouble shoot the hyd system.

What is your lift pressure compared to your curl pressure?

Do the lift and tilt cyl have the same bore size?

Is the relief going off when you try and curl?

You probably have regen when you shift the joy stick lever to the far right on the FEL valve.

When you shift the lever to the left, does the bucket curl with any load.

Can you curl down and lift the front of the tractor?

18,850 lbs push force on the curl down and 14,138 lbs of pull force on curl up.

What is the advertised curl up force?

Does the curl cyl fully extend over night, with the bucket raised?

I am surprised that the dealer does not demonstrate the full use of the tractor upon purchase. That would be the time to check the relief. It only take about 3 min to check the pressure.

Is the 3pt lever in the neutral position when doing loader work?

Your gage will tell you if you are in neutral.

 

[Short Game]

We talked about this a long time back, JJ. I put the dealer's gauge on it and the pressure was at the prescribed amount when roll-back side lifts the relief. The bucket cylinders on the 2010 are metric, and I can't tell what the inside dimension is. The outside of the can is 2.366" and the diameter of the rod is 1.179" witch looks to me like it will use up most of the inside diameter. There can't be much surface area on the weak side, the way it looks to me. So, how thick are the walls of those cylinders?

The lift cylinders are bigger.

Does the curl cyl fully extend over night, with the bucket raised?

No fade to speak of there.

Is the relief going off when you try and curl?

Only when there is weight on it. Granted, it will tilt back with a load of dirt. Just don't ask it for much more. Don't even think about breaking much out of a pile or bank without backing up to free the blade edge and lifting with the booms to get it loose.

Forward on the curl will lift the front of the tractor, but then, that is the strong side.

 

[J_J]

Can you see a mechanical disadvantage in the connecting point for the tilt cyl and the pivot pin at the bottom of the bucket. What is the difference in inches from the two points?

Can you post a photo of the side of the bucket showing the curl cyl connecting to the bucket.

The further these two points, the more force you have, but less dump angle.

Is there only one connection point for the cyl to the bucket?

Lift Capacity (@ Pivot Pin) lbs. (kg) 1150 lbs
Breakout Force (@ Pivot pin) 1740 lbs

Looking at the pictures on this site, I can see a big mechanical disadvantage in the shape or the lift arms and cyl placement.

http://www.lstractorsutah.com/new_galleria.asp?veh=171943

Larger cyl would help if they didn't hit the lift arm.

A smaller bucket would help also.

All their bragging figures are at the pivot pin.

 

[J_J]

Short Game,

At the point where you connect your curl cyl bracket to the bucket, is there another set of holes towards the top of the bucket? I can't really tell from the picture, but if there was another set of holes, you would have more force, but less dump angle.

You also mentioned something about the pressure around 2400 psi. Is that close to the hyd pump max pressure?

 

[Short Game]

If there was another hookup to increase the efficiency, I would have done that already. I sit and look at it and imagine trying to change it. Building my log forks took care of being able to lift a log of decent size. The bucket forks couldn't do diddly. The same bucket forks on my little Cub Cadet could lift/curl as much as my log forks.

I'll get some end-on pics of the bucket tomorrow.

 

[wthastings]

So gave up on the dealership and contacted LS themselves to deal with this issue. The guy was kind of an idiot and told me that I put the wrong sized bolts back into it. I laughed and told the guy that they were bolts that the dealership had to order specifically for the tractor. I felt like he thought I was an idiot. Thankfully I've given up on them trying to repair something that they aren't really going to do anything to except a quick and simple fix. Going to have it fixed by a guy that does tractor and hydrolic repairs and does a really good job. So hopefully when it is done the tractor will be strong in that area like it should be.. :thumbsup:

 

[Short Game]

So, I think these are your failing bolts. That right?

 

[Short Game]

JJ, here's the loader showing the pivot points.

Below is my old Cub Cadet 417 loader.

 

[slowzuki]

Two things:
1) Newer linkage style loaders don't usually have as strong roll back. The linkage increases the dump and rollback angle at the sacrifice of power at the ends of the travel. Its roughly the same in the middle. The rollback power is a common complaint in this style of loader, especially once you stack a q/a bracket on top. Coming from an IH 2250 loader (big sucker) to a Kubota LA853 I was disappointed until I tried a similar sized JD loader which felt about half as strong.

2) The loader brackets look a lot like Frey's style of bracket, and the loader is very similar too. Anyone know the actual manufacturer?

 

[wthastings]

Actually found some picutres of my tractor, it is the R4047. yes they are the bolts. I've had to tap them out because the heads snaped off. the only bad thing is that one on each side is difficult to reach with tools becasue the front tire gets in the way. had to actually take the front tires off one at a time to have the room to move around in there.