Comparison LS XR4145HC VS Branson 4720CH

[Texasmark]

I don't want to throw sand in your face for leaning to Branson, heck no, but if you are that interested in stability, ensure that you fill at least your rears with the fluid of your choice per the accepted process, material, and fluid level. Fluid puts weight on the ground where it's as low as it can be and goes a long way in lowering your center of gravity which is what you need to keep between your rears where they touch the ground to stay upright. I'm doing it so that I don't have to worry about over taxing my front drive line when on a hill with a good load in the bucket, and to add weight to the rear for a softer ride without having to drag around a counter weight all the time. Additionally, this way, I don't need to remove anything when it's mowing season and I hook up my mower.

On the subject, I just bought fluid to fill my rears on my newly purchased 2400. Looked and thought and wound up with WW's RV fluid at $4.75 a gallon rated to -50F full strength. Figured I could dilute to something around 0-F for my climate here and come out with a good fill product at a cheap price.

On the filler hootus, somebody on here in a post that has appeared online under the question of filling tractor tires, mentioned that they bought an attachment at Gempler's that allows you to hook your garden hose connectors to a clear water pump and pump in the fluid. When desired, push the air release button on the hootus to let the compressed air out so that you can install more, without having to undo everything. So I www'd them today and sure-nuf that plus shipping, $15.

 

[ursa]

I don't want to throw sand in your face for leaning to Branson, heck no, but if you are that interested in stability, ensure that you fill at least your rears with the fluid of your choice per the accepted process, material, and fluid level. Fluid puts weight on the ground where it's as low as it can be and goes a long way in lowering your center of gravity which is what you need to keep between your rears where they touch the ground to stay upright. I'm doing it so that I don't have to worry about over taxing my front drive line when on a hill with a good load in the bucket, and to add weight to the rear for a softer ride without having to drag around a counter weight all the time. Additionally, this way, I don't need to remove anything when it's mowing season and I hook up my mower.

On the subject, I just bought fluid to fill my rears on my newly purchased 2400. Looked and thought and wound up with WW's RV fluid at $4.75 a gallon rated to -50F full strength. Figured I could dilute to something around 0-F for my climate here and come out with a good fill product at a cheap price.

On the filler hootus, somebody on here in a post that has appeared online under the question of filling tractor tires, mentioned that they bought an attachment at Gempler's that allows you to hook your garden hose connectors to a clear water pump and pump in the fluid. When desired, push the air release button on the hootus to let the compressed air out so that you can install more, without having to undo everything. So I www'd them today and sure-nuf that plus shipping, $15.

Thanks Texasmark, I was definitely planning on having rear tires filled with fluid whichever tractor I choose, but you bring up a good point that I could fill it myself, I could save a lot of money, the dealers wants around $400 to fill with beat juice.

 

[ursa]

here's an option: have the dealer order the rims that would come on the R1 rears. Then, have 14.9x24 R4's installed. That way, you'll have the adjustable rims.

Great Idea! Hopefully doing that doesn't incur too much extra cost that they have to pass on to me. I will ask them about that idea. Hope those industrials fit the rims for the ags.

 

[ursa]

My XR4155HC with R4's at 9psi is 70 inches wide. That includes the bulge of the tire. No load on the FEL or rear lift. No fluid in tires.

Thanks for that real world measurement. Sometimes specs I read aren't the same as real world. Now just need to get a reply from someone with a branson 4720.

 

[catton93]

I drove the Branson and the Ls and I went with the LSXR4040. I think the Ls is a more stable company but that is just my opinion from some research that I did when shoping around. Both tractors were nice but I like the features of the Ls better. I had had a few issues with my tractor but my dealer has fixed them very quickly.The power, preformance, and comfort of my LS does impress me. I am happy I went with Ls instead of Branson. My neighbor has a Branson that I have used and it can't compare to the LS but it is about 5 years older than mine. Good luck. Both tractors are nice but it comes down to the comfort that is better for you.

 

[ursa]

Harry Ferguson's 3 point system, which was the hallmark of the systems for eons, used the draft control (function) to keep the tractor from being pulled over backwards upon striking an immovable or overly heavy object. Additionally it helped to maintain plowing depth, as you said, when it wants to dig in deeper it backs off the pressure, lifting up the implmement somewhat, allowing the tractor to resume it's work.

My 6530 has that function, lever controlled, just like in the old days. It mimics the Ferguson system in that there is a pressure sensor on the third member that activates the action when pressed on by the obstruction pushing against the 3rd member. The control lever in the cab determines at what pressure the lift releases (backs off) and helps to set the depth in the first place. My 2400 doesn't have it.

Would the draft control on the LS work for situations where I am using a land plane / grader scraper to grade my driveway and lets say I hit a large rock? Would it save me from something getting bent? I have a lot of 7" or larger boulders just a couple inches below the top layer of the road in some places where it has not been maintained well I wonder what kind of damage those could do in those rare situations where the grader scraper may contact them.

I was also trying to think of what the other uses for draft control would be for me since I am not doing that much farming.

 

[varmint]

For the poster who is using RV anti-freeze: I recall seeing guys who were surprised that the stuff froze when it was way above the stated freeze point temperature. You might want to stick some of your mix in the freezer and monitor at what temp. it gels and freezes? You should be fine in Texas, but who knows?
If I could always use the weight, I would go with beet juice, but it gets cold here.

 

[ursa]

Re: LS XR4145HC VS Branson 4720CH regarding Turbo

On the Branson, do you all think it is worth an extra 2 thousand to step up to the 5220CH, which has 8HP more? I will be running a grader scraper which weighs >800lbs and the manufacturer is recommending 45-55 HP.

The question could be asked about a lot of tractor brands, would it be worth 2k for turbo on the same engine?

 

[coolnick73]

Re: LS XR4145HC VS Branson 4720CH regarding Turbo

The rule of thumb around here that I have noticed is to buy as much tractor as you can afford. How wide is your scraper? You may run out of traction before you run out of power so your extra 2k might be better spent in beet juice or some other weight.

It's probably something that is wired into our brains and sellers know how to tap into the incremental upgrades, they do it with everything look at automatic car washes at your gas station. That being said, I don't think you could add a turbo and the piping and maintain a factory warranty for 2k. I think you would have to have a 47 and 52 HP side by side with the same implement to really feel the difference.