LT1000 starter solenoid getting hot

[bkenobi]

I adjusted the valves on my old tractor and it helped a slow start but hadn't considered doing that here because I had assumed that was mostly a replacement battery that was done at the same time. I checked the plugs today and they both had a bit of carbon buildup but nothing I haven't seen on lawn equipment before. One had a little fluid on the seating surface so perhaps the motor has worn rings on that side?

This afternoon I pulled the starter solenoid and motor for testing. The solenoid was clicking pretty good but didn't always provide continuity through the power side on the bench. I was only using a DC power supply so maybe it wasn't the same as the 12v system on the mower because when I reinstalled it, there was continuity every time. I did wire brush and add a generous helping of dielectric grease so maybe the issue was with oxidation.

I hadn't pulled the starter previously because it looked like the whole top of the motor would have to come off and I'm not sure I have the tools to remove the flywheel nut (not sure how to lock the crankshaft when breaking loose or reinstalling). I found that the second bolt under the flywheel could be removed since there is a recess in the bottom of the flywheel I hadn't seen before. I used a spare trailer battery to test the starter motor on the bench and it seemed really strong. I reinstalled with grease and when I tested, the tractor fired up pretty easily.

I'll monitor and see if it has issues going forward and likely have to adjust the valves if so since that definitely seems like the next thing to check. Appreciate the help!

 

[Williy]

I solved the cranking problem by adding a cheap fuel
pump put the choke on full turn key to start it fired right
away saves on starter etc. $10 on amazon

willy

 

[tomplum]

Adjusting the valves are a bit more involved here. They require removal to adjust the gap. These aren't the source of an inoperative compression release as there isn't one. Lots of carbon on the head can be an issue though.
You are correct on the starter, the flywheel can stay. I spray of lube once you get the inside one loose enough helps you spin the bolt out with your fingertips while supporting the starter. 271172 is your manual #

 

[bkenobi]

I looked for the cover for the valves when I got this tractor but didn't see it. My old 1-cylinder Briggs was really easy to access (6 bolts after pulling off the hood). This one looks like I have to remove several shields just to get started on each side and then wasn't sure how far I'd have to go to get access (pull the motor?)... I'm sure it's not an ordeal, just didn't think it was likely the issue before so stopped when I didn't see easy access.

 

[tomplum]

The shrouds, heads will get you to the top of the valves. The covers for the spring ends is under the intake.

 

[bkenobi]

On my last tractor the valve cover could be removed without having to replace the gasket since it was a rubber o-ring style. It looks like on this one if I pull the head, I'll need to source head gaskets since I imagine they will not survive.

 

[tomplum]

Yes. New gaskets. Head gaskets are different L to R

 

[bkenobi]

I found a few comments about adjusting the valves on this engine and didn't realize it was that involved. Sounds like it isn't exactly adjustable so much as I can remove the valves and grind them to get the proper clearance. If they have the proper clearance, then the issue could be the compression release on the cam shaft. Since the cam shaft is not available anymore, that sounds like it would mean the engine is an anchor. It will start up and run though, so maybe I'll see how it goes as is. I can pull the plug on one side or the other to see if one side is the issue. If both sides cause it to hard crank, then it's either both are out of adjustment or the compression release could be faulty. Not ideal either way!

 

[tomplum]

There isn't a mechanical compression release. Really whatever happens to be there is how the cam is ground. Me, I'd clean the carbon out of the heads if you think that it is excessive or just buy a new Briggs starter and life goes on.

You are correct that there are certain parts that are NLA. But these were not good, but great engines. They have a feeling of power that you won't get from an Intek Twin...

 

[bkenobi]

When i had the starter on the bench it sounded good and cranked right up. The videos I saw showed that it should have a lot of torque and would try to run away so I clamped it down. I'm curious if it could still be weak despite seeming to run fine? I put it back on to test and all worked great. I have no way to test torque so not sure if it could spin but be weak. Since it worked well yesterday, I'm not going to tear down until it starts acting up again. This time I'll have a list of things to check at least!