Lubricants

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'll bow out now for a while now... More and more.. i see the chinese sub is getting a bit more elite every day.. I think I'll stick to old fords.. nicer crowd.. )</font>

If by "elite" you mean getting populated by members that actually own a Chinese tractor, then I agree.

But the statement you challenged (again) is quite self-explanatory as written;
"I don't recommend 303 - or any UTF for that matter - in a Jinma. Unless the hydraulics will never be used in temps under 50F, 303 is too thick. For the straight cut gears in the tranny and diffs - it's too thin."

My position on UTF has always been clearly limited to these small Chinese tractors, in this case DonMac's JM220. Your "big tractor" folks can use absolutely anything they want.

//greg//

 

[Outbackfarm]

The loss of Greg or Soundguy would be a loss for all of us in this forum. Any time you get a group of people together you are going to have some minor conflicts. What I would ask for some to consider before leaving the forum is to remember the countless numbers of us who do not have the tractor experience that you bring to the table, The expertise of the members of this forum was a determining factor in my decision to buy a Jinma. And I value all of the opinions expressed, it is true I do not always agree with everything some of the members say but at least it made me think about what I was doing before I did it. When I changed the fluids on my tractor I read all of the posts I could on the subject then I came up with my own plan on how I was going to do the Job, The way I did the task was a combination of many of the members ideas. The most important thing was that I was well informed and could make my own decisions based on the experience of others. I got a great tip off of these pages on how to hook up a tractor to a load such as a plow minimizing the risk of flipping the tractor over. Who knows; if I had never read the posts on this subject I might have made a mistake that cost me my life as I know it. I had no idea how important roll over protection on a tractor is, After reading it I decided never to run my tractor with the ROP folded in the storage configuration, some day that may pay off big !!! I hope that in my life experiences I will be able to contribute something that makes a difference to some one reading these pages some day , Just as you experiences have enriched mine.

Scott /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[jaroban]

VERRY WELL SAID I have also learned more from reading these post than all my life experiance on and around tractors . Robby

 

[thingy]

Well,,I learned today that a owners manual for a tractor actually said to use rain water or fresh creek water,[whatever that is],,in raditiator,,,I guess that was the truth,,,got to be,,I couldn't even make that one up,,,well,,,,,,the thing

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> I'll bow out now for a while now... More and more.. i see the chinese sub is getting a bit more elite every day.. I think I'll stick to old fords.. nicer crowd..

later

Soundguy
</font>

SoundGuy,

Greg, is a very precise and meticulous person, IMHO, as I have read a lot of his posts. I am not defending Greg, but I have not came across anything that he has posted, that led me to believe that he is giving out anything less, than his best advice.

SoundGuy, you have a lot of Tractor Experience, but looking at your profile, you do not personally own a Chinese Tractor. And getting mad a Greg and then giving a Blanket statement as you did, is definitely offensive to others here in the Chinese Section.

I appreciate your useful, helpful information, but we Chinese Tractor owners need people Like Greg to help us out with all of the useful information that we can get, to try and keep our tractors running for as long as we can.

I disagree with Greg as well on the Universal Tractor Lubricants, as I get all of my Tractor Lubricants as Walmarts to save a much money as I can, and so far, I have came out ok. But we all do not have to think alike to be able to share useful information here, and try to help each other.

IMHO, Agree to disagree,
Get Your Tractors Running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[bluechip]

One thing all of us need to keep in mind is that the written words here do not reflect the tone of the "speaker" so sometimes an attitude or inflection can be picked up that is not necessarily the intention of the poster.

Anyway, most (all?) Universal type oils are designed as a compromise, a hydraulic oil with sufficient lubricating qualities to double as gear oil. (others may say it is gear oil thinned out enought to be hydaulic oil). In any event, in tractors that do not use the trans oil for hydraulics, like the jinma and KAMA, there is little reason to use a compromise product. Heavier gear oil will keep gears quieter and will tend to ride up the gears for better lubrication above the oil level and not run off so fast. I would venture a guess that the clearances are greater on Chinese tractors with straight cut gears than more precise helical gear boxes found in more modern/expensive machines. In those, the lighter oil may be better.

So I recommend Gear oil in transmission/front axles and plain ole hydraulic oil in the hydraulic tank. (Kama actually specifies this).

But the bottom line is that universal will work fine, will probably not really harm anything. Heck the Jinma factory specs straight 30 wt for everything on the tractor. With most of the users only running 100-150 hours per year, it will take many many years before we see results of different maintenance habits...

 

[thingy]

No,,it was clean creek water,,I said fresh creek water,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,or rain water...................the thing

 

[SPIKER]

i'd be afraid of cooking a minow or two catching creek water /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif lol

as for the other stuff, I use the 303 spec in trans & in hydraulice, start & run mine below 0 degrees F sure it takes a bit of time to warm up to working when its 10 degrees or so, but it does work fine for me in ohio. I've got about 100 hrs/ys, 3rd year starting now. anyhow when it is HOT the 303 seems to leak past seals faster as she gets to temps. I'm afraid the actuall hyd fluid would leak by faster.

I never flused out mine with anything some seals can be swelled by K1 or diesel fuel.... so I didn't think flusing the hyd fluid was worth it...

anyhow just my 2 cents worth, and maybe not even that /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Makrm

 

[thingy]

Well,,,when using clean creek water,,,you are right about those little minnows,,,wonder if tommy or one of the other parts dealers has heard of a chinese clean creek water strainer,,should be an easy enough modification to make,,,,,,,let me go to johns site and look,,,maybe somebody has already came up with the design,,,,,thingy

 

[yugo]

Donmac - I'd like to add my two cents worth in to all the good advice. I think that GregG covered all the important lubricants, though I'm not familiar with the Campbell-Hauser compressor oil. Right or wrong we use the 15-40 in the injector pump. Oil subjects often turn up a big turmoil on these forums! We'll add to the subject that we change oil and filter every 50 hours, and every 100 hours we change injector pump oil. I'm a firm believer in changing transmission, differential and hydraulic oils every 300-500 hours - especially if the tractor sits out in the weather. Further comment on the 303 oil - The gentleman that mentioned that oil didn't state that these tractors that use that oil, have extremely big oil radiators - about the size of our jimna's water radiator, to keep that oil in proper temperature range. Jimna's don't have that capability.
Here we go with some off the wall figures - may not mean anything to anyone. The other day we were mowing the back acre hillside. The grass had gotten a little overgrown, and we were using a 6' finish mower. This hillside varies between 20 and 25 degrees in slope. We got out the "ray" gun - hand held infrared thermometer - outside temp was 88 degrees, radiator was running 156 degrees, block was running 170 degrees, oil 197 degrees, hydraulic filter was 132 degrees, oil pan was 188 degrees, hydraulic reservoir was 132 degrees, back differential was 116 degrees, transfer case was 120 degrees (in 4 wheel drive), and the front differential was running 109 degrees. The out final drives on the front was running 92 degrees. We shot various components on the tractor, and didn't find any hot bearings, or any other hot spots. But, the driver and the cup holder holding his adult beverage was running extremely hot!! If interested, look at the attachment for a scenic picture of "flatlands of Kansas"-my back yard. Yugo