Some sound advice has already been given regarding using the DiffLock. You're in tilled dirt in the photo I looked at so it might not break anything but you'll find LOTS of warnings about that very issue using the DiffLock in the owner's manual. Like someone else said, about the only time I ever use the DiffLock is if I get opposite corners high enough to lose traction on two of four wheels. This is not uncommon on uneven ground, particularly in wooded areas with drainage erosion.
Most of the comments suggest more weight on the tractor to increase the traction (notice the similarity in those words?). Sound advice again. The heavier the better. Dunno what size tires you're running on your LX2620, but I'm running the biggest ones that will go on the LX frame on my LX2610SU. They won't fit on the cab models or models that uses a belly mower. They're some BIG ol' feet. Adding Rim Guard ballast to the tires added nearly 700 pounds to each rear tire. It's enough weight on the back that I stall the front-end loader (LA-535, roughly 1100 pound lift capacity) before lifting the rear tires with little more than my box blade on the rear, or even the landscape rake. If I throw the chipper on there, I can move some pretty big logs with the grapple.
I'm curious why you're scraping with the blade turned at an angle if the objective is to smooth out the tilled soil. There's something about that photo I'm not getting. Did you first till with a roto-tiller and then run the scraper on it? Or did you use a turning (bottom) plow? Personally, I'd opt for a 6- or 7-foot disc cultivator to loosen up that soil even more and chop up the root clumps. Either way, I'd make that tractor as heavy as possible toward the rear to prevent the crabbing issue. It ain't a lack of power, it's a weight distribution issue. Start with loaded tires, and add wheel weights if it's still crabbing. You shouldn't need to lock the diff to go in a straight line.
Most of the comments suggest more weight on the tractor to increase the traction (notice the similarity in those words?). Sound advice again. The heavier the better. Dunno what size tires you're running on your LX2620, but I'm running the biggest ones that will go on the LX frame on my LX2610SU. They won't fit on the cab models or models that uses a belly mower. They're some BIG ol' feet. Adding Rim Guard ballast to the tires added nearly 700 pounds to each rear tire. It's enough weight on the back that I stall the front-end loader (LA-535, roughly 1100 pound lift capacity) before lifting the rear tires with little more than my box blade on the rear, or even the landscape rake. If I throw the chipper on there, I can move some pretty big logs with the grapple.
I'm curious why you're scraping with the blade turned at an angle if the objective is to smooth out the tilled soil. There's something about that photo I'm not getting. Did you first till with a roto-tiller and then run the scraper on it? Or did you use a turning (bottom) plow? Personally, I'd opt for a 6- or 7-foot disc cultivator to loosen up that soil even more and chop up the root clumps. Either way, I'd make that tractor as heavy as possible toward the rear to prevent the crabbing issue. It ain't a lack of power, it's a weight distribution issue. Start with loaded tires, and add wheel weights if it's still crabbing. You shouldn't need to lock the diff to go in a straight line.
