Curly351
New member
But once it starts and distributes oil now its low and off the sensor, engine shuts down.
LX266 riding mower- Starts and immediately dies, won't again start for hours
- Thread starter MossflowerWoods
- Start date
- Views: 8310
But once it starts and distributes oil now its low and off the sensor, engine shuts down.
OP
MossflowerWoods
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2011
- Messages
- 5,419
- Location
- Fredericksburg, VA
- Tractor
- Kioti DK50SE HST w/FEL, Gravely 60" ZTR Mower. Stihl MS290 (selling), CS261, & FS190 + Echo CS400 & 2010 F-350 6.4 PSD snowplow truck
OK... #1 - The manual online says check engine oil when cold. #2 - When I checked the dipstick, it was JUST BARELY BELOW the FULL mark. I added a few OZ of oil regardless.
It is NOT low oil level.
Cool?
Thanks,
David
Curly351
New member
No worries, Just throwing ideas at you.
OP
MossflowerWoods
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2011
- Messages
- 5,419
- Location
- Fredericksburg, VA
- Tractor
- Kioti DK50SE HST w/FEL, Gravely 60" ZTR Mower. Stihl MS290 (selling), CS261, & FS190 + Echo CS400 & 2010 F-350 6.4 PSD snowplow truck
Its all good Brother... I keep sneaking out and checking things. I read up on the oil sensor, and I went out an after a few seconds just on the starter the oil light goes out. Good idea, but not the culprit.
Mower No Go...
:-(
David
frugalangler
Gold Member
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/247/24797_2000x2000.jpg
Example of a Kohler Vertical Shaft V-Twin - common on many smaller riders
not to worry about not being much of a mechanic, that's why we're trying to lend a helping hand
crazyal
Super Member
I would pull the spark plug once it dies. If you don't have a spark capable of igniting the gas it should be wet. I would take it to another engine that you know runs and put the plug with on the plug and put the metal base of the plug against something metal on the engine. Be careful as you don't want to get shocked. Try starting the other engine (make sure there are no switches turned off). As you try to start it look at the plug. You should see a spark jump across the plug from the center electrode to the ground strap. If you don't then you most likely have a bad plug and the spark has found an easier path to ground.
If the spark plug is bad replace and drain all of your gas as it may be contaminated. Also get a couple spares in case you foul the new one trying to get it running again. If the plug is good and it's firing for a brief moment then I would put the plug back in. If you have an AutoZone near by I would pick up one of these:
OEM In line ignition spark tester 25227 - Read 4 Reviews on OEM #25227
It's cheap, less than $10. With it installed between the plug and the plug wire try starting the engine. If you see a spark then you can rule out an ignition problem. Can you unplug the coil so there is no spark? If so then do so. With the plug removed (if you don't have the coil unplugged the plug wire can shock you) put your thumb over the spark plug hole and try turning the engine over. You should feel the engine suck on your finger. You can rent a compression tester from Autozone if you don't have one but as long as you feel it suck chances are there's enough to start the engine.
From there you can move on to fuel. This is most likely where your problem lies. Unless you suspect the gas is bad I think I would focus on the carb. You will need to remove it and rebuild it (or replace it). Gas dripping out of the exhaust is a sign that there's too much gas. It's possible the float is sticking open. It's the round bowl on the bottom of the carb. If it is then fuel is filling up the bowl and then dumping uncontrolled into your engine. This is a common problem and a rebuild kit will include a new float valve.
If the spark plug is bad replace and drain all of your gas as it may be contaminated. Also get a couple spares in case you foul the new one trying to get it running again. If the plug is good and it's firing for a brief moment then I would put the plug back in. If you have an AutoZone near by I would pick up one of these:
OEM In line ignition spark tester 25227 - Read 4 Reviews on OEM #25227
It's cheap, less than $10. With it installed between the plug and the plug wire try starting the engine. If you see a spark then you can rule out an ignition problem. Can you unplug the coil so there is no spark? If so then do so. With the plug removed (if you don't have the coil unplugged the plug wire can shock you) put your thumb over the spark plug hole and try turning the engine over. You should feel the engine suck on your finger. You can rent a compression tester from Autozone if you don't have one but as long as you feel it suck chances are there's enough to start the engine.
From there you can move on to fuel. This is most likely where your problem lies. Unless you suspect the gas is bad I think I would focus on the carb. You will need to remove it and rebuild it (or replace it). Gas dripping out of the exhaust is a sign that there's too much gas. It's possible the float is sticking open. It's the round bowl on the bottom of the carb. If it is then fuel is filling up the bowl and then dumping uncontrolled into your engine. This is a common problem and a rebuild kit will include a new float valve.
Yes, a bad spark plug can be a one hit wonder and not fire any further. So if you haven't replaced it yet.....The coil on these as well. I've seen these coils throw some occasional spark and not run. This is because the CD in the coil becomes wacked and releases the spark at the wrong time. I'm assuming that your oil has no fuel in it from the description of your level. I don't recall if these come with the choke wizard on the shaft or not. To verify if the choke plate is staying closed you would need to remove the airbox and visually inspect. Though a closed choke will still usually up and run for more than a few seconds.
Spanner
Veteran Member
That it starts only proves the spark was 'good' for the period the engine actually ran.
Easy things first:
New spark plugs.
Did you fit new s/p's as Tom suggested? Don't dismantle anything else until you verify s/p's first.
txdon
Super Star Member
Gas cap vent hole obstructed?
Loose ground wire on motor?
Loose ground wire on motor?
Spanner
Veteran Member
It's pumping unburnt fuel out of the muffler.
Loose wire would cause intermittent failure.
The OP is describing consistent & recurring symptoms:
Starts up. > Stops straight away. > Starts again tomorrow...