M4900: Three Issues

[docmx]

I have 340 hrs on it and the FEL appears to be operating slower than usual. The only thing that I have done differently is to add a box blade that I pretty much keep it mounted on the tractor. Could hoisting the box blade be taking hydraulic pressure from the FEL, thus slowing it down?

Second issue, I have begun to notice that it is harder to shift into the forward gear particularly after the tractor has been running for 45 minutes or so. Never had this problem before. Any ideas?

Third issue, I noticed hydraulic fluid had squirted out the FEL controller valve area. This is the first time I've noticed this. I checked the hoses and they all seem to be tight with no obvious leaks. Does the pressure relief blow fluid? I must confess, I checked the hydraulic fluid level and it was high. I guess I added a bit too much during the recent fluid change. Could that be affecting the FEL's operations?

 

[rbargeron]

I have 340 hrs on it and the FEL appears to be operating slower than usual. The only thing that I have done differently is to add a box blade that I pretty much keep it mounted on the tractor. Could hoisting the box blade be taking hydraulic pressure from the FEL, thus slowing it down?

Second issue, I have begun to notice that it is harder to shift into the forward gear particularly after the tractor has been running for 45 minutes or so. Never had this problem before. Any ideas?

Third issue, I noticed hydraulic fluid had squirted out the FEL controller valve area. This is the first time I've noticed this. I checked the hoses and they all seem to be tight with no obvious leaks. Does the pressure relief blow fluid? I must confess, I checked the hydraulic fluid level and it was high. I guess I added a bit too much during the recent fluid change. Could that be affecting the FEL's operations?

A few questions: Would you say the loader got slower when the box blade was added or was it noticed after the fluid change? First issue - does the new box blade have top & tilt? Were any new hydraulics added? Is this the first use for rear remotes?
Second issue - is the shuttle lever harder to push? or is it that it takes longer to respond - or something else? Third issue - there should be no escape of hydraulic fluid - the relief valve flow should be internal only. Are there quick couplers at the control valve? Sometimes they drip. If there is visible spraying there's a leaking fitting or hose. About over-filling, a few (2-3) extra quarts should make no difference - are we sure the new oil is the right stuff? Was the hydraulic filter replaced?

 

[docmx]

The loader was definitely not slower after the fluid change. It appeared to have slowed down after I added a grapple to the FEL and operated it from the rear remotes. That was the first use of the remotes. Even when I switched to a bucket and disconnected the remotes, the bucket appears to respond slower than it has in the past. Also noticed the grapple does not respond as quickly unless I rev the engine. The box blade does not have a top and tilt. Second issue...the shuttle lever is harder to push. I have to force it a bit. Third issue, I've looked closely at each of the hose quick connects and do not see any leaks. I did see hydralic fluid on the base of the controller. The new oil I added was the Kubota hydraulic oil (UDT?) and I changed the filters at the same time.

 

[rbargeron]

Ok maybe we can say Issue 3 is not an issue - a little over filling usually has no effect. Issue 2 is most likely a linkage problem - I believe the shuttle control valve is mounted on the side of the transmission under the left floorboard. The linkage has a lot of joints and pivots between the valve and the lever - maybe something jammed, rubbing or bent.

On issue 1, about your rear remotes, how many couplers ?, how many control valves? do you swap any hoses at the FEL valve to activate the rear? Is any of this new?

 

[docmx]

Ok maybe a little grease is needed on the joints and pivots??? 2 couplers and I believe 1 control valve, but not sure. Do not swap hoses at FEL valve. Hoses run direct from rear remotes to grapple hydraulics. All remotes are original factory equipment. The only new equipment is the grapple and hydraulic lines running to it.

 

[HappyHillFarmer]

Can't answer problems 1 and 3, but I had a similar issue with my M5700 shuttle shift last winter. It seemed to get worse the longer the tractor was used and got to the point where it was almost impossible to get it out of forward or reverse. If you follow the linkage from the shuttle shifter, it ends up at a small ball valve located about a foot above the floor board on the right side of the instrument/steering column area. I found that there was a loose bolt on the linkage slightly before the ball valve area. I tightened this up but the problem only got slightly better. What fixed it was spraying a little light oil on the ball valve itself. Once I did this, it's worked perfectly ever since

 

[docmx]

Great! I give that a try. Thanks!

 

[docmx]

Success on issue #2. Who would have ever thought a little WD40 and it has loosened up considerably. Took the liberty to apply same on the other moving linkage joints. Thanks for that suggestion!!

 

[rbargeron]

....... 2 couplers and I believe 1 control valve, but not sure. Do not swap hoses at FEL valve. Hoses run direct from rear remotes to grapple hydraulics. All remotes are original factory equipment. The only new equipment is the grapple and hydraulic lines running to it.

The hose-swap question was to see if the remotes ran from the FEL valve's power-beyond port, or if they had their own valve (which it sounds like there is) .
Something is dividing the flow. Is there any combination of unplugged grapple hoses, or remote valve position where the loader speed is normal? Having the box blade on is new practice too, right? If you drop your box blade to the ground does the loader speed improve? The 3-point hitch shouldn't use any flow once the position is satisfied - but I guess it could have an internal leak that's wasting some flow, which is what you were wondering originally. Sorry I'm not more help.

 

[Yankee Clipper]

Doc,

Just for grins lower your three point arms to about mid height and see if the loader now has power and speed. If so, the followup linkage to the unloading valve needs to be lengthened to keep the hitch from going over relief. The linkage on your tractor is on the left hand lift arm - long hex block with a jam nut.

Lower the hitch to the ground with the arms empty (no implement). Then grab the lower arm and raise it until the hitch hits the internal stop. Make a mark at the top cover and arm boss. Loosen the jam nut and extend the linkage. Now start the tractor and raise the hitch fully. The marks should not align as it did when hitting the internal stop. (yes, you will loose some hitch height.)

If so, extend the followup lilnkage more until the marks do not align. This means your hitch is neutralizing and the tractor is not blowing the relief at the top of hitch travel. Why do you care? If it is blowing the relief, the loader and any other downstream hydraulic load will have less power and flow.

Good luck!