Your problem has zero to do with crankcase oil, assuming the engine has oil in the crankcase. I suppose you could overfill to the point where running issues would arise, but I mean REALLY overfill. Pull the dip stick to make sure level is right and move on to air and fuel systems.
I'd go along with that. In fact I'll go a bit farther and say to treat the trans/hydraulic oil the same way: if there's enough of it in there, that's not your starting problem no matter what kind of oil it is.
We might - or might not - see a difference in wear between different oils in a thousand hours, but not in a hundred- and certainly not immediately after service.
As for the air and fuel systems, they are the easiest part of the tractor to service - as well as being almost bulletproof in operation. On our
M59 both can be changed without using any tools at all. If in doubt, have a look at them.
If it were my tractor and doing what yours is doing during start up after a service here's what I'd do:
I'd consider throwing away the fuel they put in it. You can't test it and it's now suspect. Then take the air filter out, look at it, and put it back together. Did they leave a rag in there? Next, turn off the fuel, undo the fuel filter ring, take the fuel filter out and dry it off while dumping the bowl contents. Wear rubber gloves for this. Put it back together, maybe with new fuel, and be SURE to turn the fuel tap back on. Now start it just like it says in the manual - after the glow plug light goes off, tranny in neutral, and so on. If it won't start easily, work the bleed screw once like it says on page 93 of the
M59 operator's manual.
But before you start it, do run a check on the positions of PTO control, the bucket auto-level system, and the buttons on the large right hand hyd. control that feed power to the front aux. hydraulics. And the rear aux hydraulic controls too if you have them. Any of those hydraulic controls could be on and be loading the system. You want them all off in cold weather starts. It could be as simple as that.
For warm up, mine will cycle up an down in RPM too - but only for maybe 5 or ten seconds before it settles down. To avoid that, I use a block heater for an several hours if its cold, turn off the ATA and set the hand throttle to about quarter throttle while it warms up.
luck, rScotty
