OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
All you need is a welder and some scraps. Might have to spend ~$10 on some pins. But they are probably the easiest attachment to make.
Made a new 3PH trailer hitch (reese)
- Thread starter LD1
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All you need is a welder and some scraps. Might have to spend ~$10 on some pins. But they are probably the easiest attachment to make.
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
Here are some pics of it mounted on the tractor.
Notice how level the hitch stays through out the range. This is why I made it this way. Cause the first one I made, I just used the standard Cat I dimension of 18".
Well, on my tractor, the distance between where the lower arms mount, and the toplink hole is only 13". Thus with the standard 18" spacing, causes the hitch to tilt during raise.
So a word of advise if you want to make one, make the mast height match the tractor and it will be level all the way:thumbsup:
And I tested it out today towing ~5000# worth of wood and trailer. Works great:thumbsup:
Notice how level the hitch stays through out the range. This is why I made it this way. Cause the first one I made, I just used the standard Cat I dimension of 18".
Well, on my tractor, the distance between where the lower arms mount, and the toplink hole is only 13". Thus with the standard 18" spacing, causes the hitch to tilt during raise.
So a word of advise if you want to make one, make the mast height match the tractor and it will be level all the way:thumbsup:
And I tested it out today towing ~5000# worth of wood and trailer. Works great:thumbsup:
econometrics
Platinum Member
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That is very cool how you rigged it to stay level throughout the lift of the 3PT!
...also, nice pic pulling all that wood! You're a lot younger than I would have figgur'd!
...also, nice pic pulling all that wood! You're a lot younger than I would have figgur'd!
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
A picture would be helpful, but the distance from the toplink hole and the lower links on the hitch itself needs to be close to the same as the tractor. That keeps the toplink and the lower arms parallel to eachother. Thats what gets you the level lift:thumbsup: If the toplink is on a different angle as the lowers, you hitch will rotate when raised.
Standard for cat I is 18". Most tractors are ~12" appart on the tractor side. That makes the rear of whatever implement raise faster (rotate). For things like a blade or bushhog, that is normally a good thing for ground clearance. Not so good for a hitch.
Also, if you have multiple holes for the TL on the tractor side, make sure you are using the top one (or the one that makes the toplink the closest matched in angle to the lower links)
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
Nice work... got an old hitch from my father in law last week with this type project in mind. Never thought of the top link to bottom link being parallel issue. Thanks for the info.
Xfaxman
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For guys planning to build one, you might consider this versatile design.
Or do what I did and buy it from: Transformer - OMNI Mfg LLC
Or do what I did and buy it from: Transformer - OMNI Mfg LLC
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
Now where is the fun in that??
Since you have one though, let me ask this....It looks like the reciever part is only bolted on with two bolts?? is that correct? I dont know if I would like that or not. I tend to use mine alot skidding logs, by chaining tight and using the 3PH to lift the log and then drag. I like a welded unit for that.
It looks like you are used the same hitch that I am using to make one:laughing:
It does indeed look the same. Came off a 1989 F150. I think it was a Shel...somethign???? brand. Couldnt read it all.