Made in China box blade

mikehaugen · Jul 20, 2012

I am a mechanic at a factory. My job and livelihood depends on american manufacturing and probably will for as long as I live, as far as I can foresee. Quality is not the only consideration in doing everything I can to purchase american made products. I have seen many quality products made oversees, you are hard pressed to find a lot of things that aren't, but I will still pay more for american made products. I will even pay as much or more for used items to avoid sending my money to China.

I understand people's logic to an extent. Why should I pay more for the same quality because it is made here? The cost of living for the employees, environmental restrictions, and safety restrictions placed on american factories really drives up the cost to do business here, A cost that I am willing to pay if possible. This country was built on manufacturing, that's why a country that is less than 300 years far surpassed many countries that have been around for thousands of years. If we lose manufacturing, what do we have? Just my thoughts, but again it is America and you can do what you like.

swick1 · Jul 20, 2012

wotalota said:
The United might be the better constructed, with the China model being a bit heavier. After shipping to a home address in NH its about $626 vs $480. I was thinking to keep it below $500. There is a good looking substantial Landpride BB2560 for $475 on the Vermont Craigslist right now but at 5' and about 470lbs I think it is too big for me.
The tiller suggestion is interesting. I do have a small walk behind that might be worth a try, it would save a bunch. Would need to see if my back and dental fillings hold up, it doesn't bring up too many rocks or is so deep it reaches the fabric cover.

Thanks folks.

You won't regret spending the extra money to have one that will last for the rest of your life.

wotalota · Jul 20, 2012

Being 70 one less regret is welcome, but my circumstances are more short sighted than they used to be. I started off wondering about the how appropriate the tool in general would be and if others had experience with this particular line since it seemed the most cost effective so far encountered. I have also wondered about getting out the rake and making do. There is the buy American and buy the best you can affored aspects to consider along with the pleasure of quality. None of these are for me absolute or what I am interested in, actually I am more so than box blades, but it would turn into a off topic ramble.

wotalota · Jul 20, 2012

Scooby074 said:
If your ground is hard, you need weight. My advice is to get the heaviest one you can afford.

I added several hundred pounds to my Woods BSE4 Heritage BB in order to make it in any way effective. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/249062-adding-weight-underweight-box-blade.html

I feel indecisive about this. I think the small box blade might not be the right thing for me. Perhaps I should just do what I can with the loader and let it go through the winter of freezing and expansion and see how it seems after that. It has cured a lot of yard damage in the past. I'm tempted by the big heavy idea and keep going back and drooling over the old heavy duty Landpride that is for sale. Others caution against it given the lightweight tractor I have. My own experience here tells me to resist. This Kubota with R4 tires will spin its wheels if the humidity is high so I'm doubtful it can drag much weight. The hillside is still damp after 3 months with the trenches dug and little rain. Actually wet in places enough to need to drive around. Yesterday I saw as many frogs hopping away from the tractor as mice running off. When the trenches were dug it became apparent most of what was exposed was clay. Afraid the water might not be migrating to the trenches through the clay as effectively as hoped. Before the trench work the nearby ground used to roll around when I drove over kind of like a water bed. Spin the wheels and break through the weedy grass and its up to the axle in mud before realizing I'd stopped moving. When that happens as I go to get the come-along, planks of wood a shovel etc I think of Ergon's picture apparently driving through a ditch up to his steering wheel without any problems.

1bush2hog · Jul 20, 2012

Hopefully you can stay calm if you choose Chinese steele

Scooby074 · Jul 20, 2012

wotalota said:
I feel indecisive about this. I think the small box blade might not be the right thing for me. Perhaps I should just do what I can with the loader and let it go through the winter of freezing and expansion and see how it seems after that. It has cured a lot of yard damage in the past. I'm tempted by the big heavy idea and keep going back and drooling over the old heavy duty Landpride that is for sale. Others caution against it given the lightweight tractor I have. My own experience here tells me to resist. This Kubota with R4 tires will spin its wheels if the humidity is high so I'm doubtful it can drag much weight. The hillside is still damp after 3 months with the trenches dug and little rain. Actually wet in places enough to need to drive around. Yesterday I saw as many frogs hopping away from the tractor as mice running off. When the trenches were dug it became apparent most of what was exposed was clay. Afraid the water might not be migrating to the trenches through the clay as effectively as hoped. Before the trench work the nearby ground used to roll around when I drove over kind of like a water bed. Spin the wheels and break through the weedy grass and its up to the axle in mud before realizing I'd stopped moving. When that happens as I go to get the come-along, planks of wood a shovel etc I think of Ergon's picture apparently driving through a ditch up to his steering wheel without any problems.

I think you have to re-level the area. A BB is great for that. Scrape off the existing grass and soggy clay. Once that area dries up, you can get in there and go at the serious regrading.

If your clay is damp, you might not need a heavy blade. However if underneath that dampness the clay is hard, or the soil in other areas is "hard", you need a heavy BB in my experience.

A BX with R4's will pull a 800lb, 4' BB that is full with dry, hard clay. Ive done it! If the tractor bogs down, you can raise the blade to dump some soil out. WHen I run my BB, I keep one hand on the 3pt lever, both to keep the tractor from stalling and to adjust grade on the fly

Freakingstang · Jul 20, 2012

here is my swampy clay infested box blade work regrading my new property this spring. The key was to get teh soupy stuff out and let dry... it was a 4' unkown brand that I got for 150 bucks from a local dealer because it was rust colored....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...40622-my-landscaping-grading-project-pic.html

wotalota · Jul 20, 2012

Freakingstang said:
here is my swampy clay infested box blade work regrading my new property this spring. The key was to get teh soupy stuff out and let dry... it was a 4' unkown brand that I got for 150 bucks from a local dealer because it was rust colored....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...40622-my-landscaping-grading-project-pic.html

I looked at your pictures and had that kind of feeling when you have been going on and on about a pimple on your nose that wont go away and later you find out they are dealing with some awful condition. My yard suddenly looks like I'm living in Connecticut.

r8nger · Jul 22, 2012

For the love of country, don't do china!!!
I bought the united from everything attachments , and it is great. No complaints, and made in America . 4' behind a jd x748 and performs better than expected .