Oil & Fuel Mahindra 3016
- Thread starter crdrvr1
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You're just testing for continuity . Leads from test equipment create a path. With a test light, one of the leads goes to the plus side battery terminal.
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By any chance does the current problem coincide with the battery replacement? If so, first thing I'd check is the fuse.
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The fuse box is in front. The fuse controls the glow plug indicator and is under "c". however re-reading your original post I do not think this is where the problem is, I'd do the continuity check on the glow plugs with the 12v test light. If you have one bad one, that could screw up your starting. Replace all three at one time. If all the plugs are ok, then its your glow plug controller or relay that is bad. What makes glow plugs go bad quickly is having the key on for an extended period of time such as putting lights on the tractor while not wanting to start it. Our tractors do not have an "accessory" detent (non cab models) on the key switch so partially turning the key on activates the glow plugs. Heating them up for extended periods of time tends to burn them out. I've done this myself. I've heard about "low batteries" weakening glow plugs stating about too much resistance caused by low voltage at battery. I don't buy that however as to me , low voltage means less resistance. I also heard jump starting can blow glow plugs. At any rate, this is a simple problem to fix. Not cheap, but simple. If it is the plugs themselves, make sure you get the 10.5 voltage ones ( $35 per) and not the 8's they used to put in the 2816's until the upgrade. All 3016's should be using the 10.5's. I am quite confident your starting issues have to do with dysfunctional glow plug action.
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no they're fine as long as they are reputable and the voltage is correct. Bosch makes a good one as well as NKG.
seekerA1
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Where can I buy a Mahindra 3016 fuel pump? I have scoured the internet and cannot find a listing or point of sale for a fuel pump. I installed a universal fuel pump rated at 120 liters per hour but it will not keep the fuel filter cup more than half way filled up, my grass is knee hi and I really need to cut it.
SAME PROBLEM HERE UNTIL I SET FUEL LEVER TO SLOWEST SETTING, HYDRAULICS DOWN, THEN IT STARTS, IT'S TEMPERMENTAL!!
rScotty
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White smoke out the exhaust means you are getting fuel to the injectors, and the fuel is getting vaporized by the injectors, but the fuel is not igniting. This can be due to several simple things.
The simplest of all is that the starter isn't cranking the engine fast enough to get the compression up enough to fire the mixture. Of course that is simple to fix. At most it would be battery, starter, and solenoid. You can check these things with a Volt/Ohm/Ammeter and some know-how. They are the same on diesel tractors or gasoline cars.
White smoke could also be something as simple as not getting enough air in to mix with the vaporized diesel. So it could be as simple as a plugged air filter or a mouse nest in the intake manifold. I've seen both.
It could be old fuel with low cetane rating....but you've changed that. So that's not it.
Less likely is that the injectors have gotten old and are not spraying a good pattern for starting. That's less common, and it doesn't happen overnight. It's a progressive failure. This is where things tend to get mechanical, so if you aren't a mechanic it's time to get one to come out. The diesel mechanic can pull the injectors out, crank the engine and watch the spray pattern and come up with a pretty good guess if the injectors are the problem. Doing this also checks the low pressure fuel feed pump if there is one, and gives us some information on the high pressure fuel pump feeding the injectors.
Suppose the injectors are decent. Now is when we step back and take stock.
We know that white smoke from the exhaust is also very common when trying to start a worn engine with low compression that is also cold. In fact it is so common to old worn engines that we have been trying to ignore that possibility all along. But now it's time to check those things. Don't despair, check first. We do know that pre-heating the block or intake is the classic way to get an old worn diesel engine going. And we know that although it's a pain, they can function for years that way. Difficult strarting, and kind of down on power, but usable.
However, once an engine needs to be hot to start easily it is time to check for age & that means a compression check. The mechanic can do that while checking the injectors. In fact, she probably will check compression anyway just for curiosity. If compression is low, it's time to re-new the upper end of the engine..... ugh, but the result is an engine that runs like new.
If a compression check shows that compression is good (HOORAY!!) and you can check the injectors for a decent spray pattern, then the next place to go is to look at the high pressure fuel pump to the injectors. Make sure that the pump cam is not worn or has slipped timeing. For dealing with the high pressure fuel pum you definitely need a real mechanic.
Most of the rest of the stuff I've mentioned can be done in the barn by an amateur willing to do it.
Good luck, hope it's something simple. It usually is.
rScotty
