Mahindra 3510. Overheating

[indianaEPH]

I have seen some tractors that had so much debris in the radaitor fins that cleaning in the tractor was an impossibility. Taking the radiator out of the tractor and pressure washing it was the only cure. I don't know what your history as far as cleaning methods and intervals has been, but like I said, I have seen them so plugged up with fine debris in the fins that you couldn't see it or clean it in the tractor. Just a thought.

I can sure attest to what is said here. I have the 4110. Last year it was overheating very easily when running the bush hog. I eventually took out the radiator and pressure washed it. To say there was a lot of debris in the fins was an understantment. There is no way I could have cleaned this out correctly with the radiator still mounted.

Also, I had no problems with using the pressure washer to clean it. Just be carefule and spray at 90 deg. to the face of the radiator and you will not bend the fins.

After the cleaning the tractor has never over heated.

360 hrs of mostly bush hogging on it

 

[rankrank1]

Brow1033,

Have you tried this? I posted this in one of your other threads,but it may have gotten buried......

Assuming you have eliminated the obvious items as already posted, Are you willing to try a $7.00 experiment? (this assumes you do the work yourself).

I had a similar problem with my 30 plus year old Kubota which I purchased used. Darned thing always wanted to run warmer than it should. Of course I checked the obvious items to no avail - even down to the radiator cap. Replaced the temp gauge and sending unit just to ensure that I had accurate gage readings. So I thought lets put a new thermostat in which was $23.00 from Kubota Dealer . The brand new thermostat from Kubota made my problem WORSE. I returned the Kubota thermostat and got my money back. What I noticed about the Kubota thermostats is that the center popit was very small almost to the point of being excessively resrictive in my opinion.

So I went to my local NAPA dealer with my old thermostat in hand. From their picture/dimensional book, I picked a thermostat 10 degrees cooler than what was stamped on the Factory Kubota thermostats and also looked for a thermostat with a bigger center poppit valve which I hoped would increase water flow some. I did have to grind the outer ring slightly so it would fit in my water jacket receptacle, but this was easliy done on a bench grinder by hand. IN SHORT, A $7.00 Thermostat that fit some oddball Diahatsui car is now in my Kubota and it totally fixed my problem. I did this 10 years ago and I still have the tractor today with my custom thermostat in it. My tractor now operates in the temperature ranges that it should because one needs to realize that an engine operating at too cold a temperature is a bad thing as well. (My tractor originally had a 180 degree thermostat and I opted for a 170 Degree thermosat. 170 degree is not a common selection but it is offered. I did not want to drop all the way down to a 160 degree for fear of engine running too cold. The bigger poppit allows for more water flow which I think helps matters too.)

(Special Note: Do not attempt to run it without a thermostat whatsover. If you are truly at the end of your rope, then this would be a $7.00 experiment worth trying in my opinion.)

 

[NetworkMD]

I agree the radiator should be throughly cleaned after each use. Debris is a major overheating in almost every case I have looked at.

Another thing to look at is the battery placement some early models had the battery mounted high, and it was blocking a good portion of the bottom of the radiator, Manhidra has a fairly low cost battery relocation tray that drops the battery about 6-8 inches so the top is at the bottom of the radiator

Good luck, but when I used to have a 4110, I could run it all day in 80+ f days with not overheating it would not even get to the mid point

 

[Outlander]

A couple of odd ball possibilites.....
Wrong coolant mix. Most mfrs recommend 50-50 to 70-30 mixes. Pure water cools best, and the cooling ability, not boiling point...actual heat
rejection capacity drops as you raise the anti-freeze percentage.
Contrary to some people's opinion, a 100% anti-freeze level can cause
overheating. Another rarity would be the water pump impeller spinning freely on the pump shaft. Both have happened to me......

 

[coffeeman]

I can sure attest to what is said here. I have the 4110. Last year it was overheating very easily when running the bush hog. I eventually took out the radiator and pressure washed it. To say there was a lot of debris in the fins was an understantment. There is no way I could have cleaned this out correctly with the radiator still mounted.

Also, I had no problems with using the pressure washer to clean it. Just be carefule and spray at 90 deg. to the face of the radiator and you will not bend the fins.

After the cleaning the tractor has never over heated.

360 hrs of mostly bush hogging on it

Same thing here. 4110 started running hot after cutting an overgrown field. I remember it only took 15 minutes to clog. Blew out chaff and 15 minute later hot hot! It was quite a few acres. I waited for a light rain and cut it all. Rain stopped the dust. However, I could never bring the temp down to where I thought it should be.

Well, bad luck turned out to be good luck. I developed a small radiator leak. Of course, being a cheap a**, I tried stop leak and some other things. Really I'm lucky I didn't burn up tractor then. One day my brother-in-law decided to help me cut the grass; while I was away. He thought he'd surprise me. Problem was the machine needed water and driver never noticed gauge. I came home while he was still cutting. I checked and temp was to peg. We shut it down and I added water later. Started her up and ran ok. LUCKY ME. I pulled the radiator and sent it to radiator shop. Radiators are cheaper than engines. It ain't worth it to Mickey Mouse around. Course i like Mickey; he always smiles.

The old radiator came back like new and was CLEAN. Temp rides right where it did when new. If I have to cut a few high weeds I'll back into thme. If I have to cut a big field of high grass I'll wait till grass is wet.

Cheers...Cofeeman

 

[rback33]

I am very confused here. I posted in this thread two weeks ago and my post is gone. PM and I will be happy to come take a look at the situation. Who did you buy from? Have you removed the radiator for cleaning? My guess is that it is still packed full.

 

[10865]

Here is the problem with radiators in tractors used for field mowing. Plants contain sugary starches. When heated, those do congeal into the solid mass they were before they hit the radiator. The debris enters primarily from the front. I like Talcott1's idea of the leaf blower; which also makes a great chamois after washing your beast.

I just recently replaced my battery. When doing so, I especially noticed all of the radiator fins behind the battery compartment were plugged with hardened plant dust. Using compressed air, I was able to carefully blow out the clogs from the front, thus forcing them toward the engine. Next time I do this, I thing I will take the time to remove the fan shield. Doing so will enable me to get my air gun into a position to blow the dust from which direction it came.

The earlier models had the battery mounted high and nearly covering the radiator fins.
Mahindra has a conversion kit that drops the batter down. I found at Bill's Tractor on the web.
Bill