Mahindra: Nothing but problems

[bindian]

Thanks, I'll try that line rather than to offer $100 to suppliment their fuse inventory. BTW, after a couple of days looking around, PEP boys had all the funny looking fuses I needed...

:thumbsup:
hugs, Brandi

 

[TomSeller]

I read his posts. I mentioned the fuses earlier that you can pick them up at an auto parts store for a cheaper price. I don't think having or not having a manual is part of it. My dealer didn't carry manuals. Numerous times in this forum, it has been stated to buy online...........and gave vendors that sold online.

The OP stated about helping others here by sharing his problems, yet hasn't told us how he spent 3 days to fix his intermittant short.

The reason people jumped down his throat was because he was knocking a great product over his phobias of a dealer working on his tractor. When he kept having problems his engineer's head could not comprehend .........all he did was whine here about a bad product.
hugs, Brandi

He came for help and he did not get much of it. As far as a great product, the brand may be great but his fit and finish was not. He sees it through his eyes, not someone's who had a better experience. I think the group was too hard on him.

His recent post shows he knows what he was talking about all along. Great ending.

 

[lilranch2001]

I guess we all read this thread the way we see it

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I guess we all read this thread the way we see it

Is there any other way??? :confused3: :laughing:

 

[lilranch2001]

nope

 

[cartod]

I wish him good luck, but hugs???? No hugs here....

 

[mfridenmaker]

Thank you

Fordman1981
ovrszd
TomSeller

for being friendly and civil. Your posts were spot on.

TractorByNet is becoming more mean spirited all the time.

Post #7

 

[arrow]

I was at road atlanta this weekend. I built the engine, suspension, and touched every other part of the car I run there. No technical ability huh? Want to talk valve train geometry about wipe pattern on the tip of the valves from the rocker arms, push rod length, and shimming the springs so they don't develop float? How about fly cutting the pistons for proper P to V clearance, milling the heads to get a better quench out of an ~11.5 to 1 compression ratio with a 12.8deg overlap cam to take advantage of a scavanging merge collector on the headers? I built my car, it runs when I turn the key, and it's a 17 yr old car that thraashes with $100k+ GT3's, Nissan GTR, and the list goes on... But I like to work on my car because it's a race car and that's what you do when you go 160 mph into a turn and need the brakes to work, you prep your own brakes like you pack your own parachute.



Post #4! for those counting

I love talking about valve train geometry. For you to have 12.9* overlap you would need 4.4* ATDC and 8.4 BTDC. Scavenging is done with the rush of exhaust actually pulling in air at the intake but this is happening at the valves. Scavenging effect of a collector has more to do with tuning exhaust velocity. You will get the effects of scavenging with cam overlap whether you had headers or not. I'm guessing you must be running a worked over Corvette to run with the likes of GTR's and such coming to the track with twin turbos and over 500 hp. Plus your overlap amount is high for a turboed or supercharged car so I'm thinking your using C.I's to stay competitive. Careful not to shim your springs too much. I'm surprised the cam manufacturer didn't suggest valve spring strength.
Oh yeah, I'm sorry you are having such troubles with your tractor.

 

[TomSeller]

Thank you

Fordman1981
ovrszd
TomSeller

for being friendly and civil. Your posts were spot on.

TractorByNet is becoming more mean spirited all the time.

Post #7

I would maybe say calloused rather than mean, but I know what you are referring to. Dmize sounds like a talent that TBN needs. I was very impressed with his race car ability. We can always use even more talent than we already have. I hope he hangs around with us.

 

[Coyote machine]

Nope, no troll, no college kid, all problems legit. BTW, what college kid sits around and stirs the pot about a tractor? Few if any...

So when I purchase something and it doesn't work it's my fault? NO, but realize that's what you get from warranty you paid for
Rush Limbaugh would say that's classic liberalism... if something doesn't work to your favor, blame/attack the victim.
Who gives a ratz azz what RL says/thinks

You can blame me for the tractor's shortcomings, but that doesn't change anything. You can also desparage my engineering, or that I didn't post all weekend, thank goodness I escaped this disaster. Like I wanted to post that or feel ripped off because I have nothing better to do than bash the tractor I own to hurt the resale value. You may be an engineer, and buy various things but today's reality is very few things in most any price range perform as hoped/expected...again work the issues out with the manufacturer/local dealer or another dealer. Ranting may feel good but does NOTHING to resolve any specific issues.
Bought any computers, cell phones, refrigerators, major appliances in the last 10 years? They're all crap, without exception. And I've bought: Fridigaire, Viking, Samsung, Toshiba, Dell, Buderus, Kenmore, Apple, etc., etc. All have broken or not performed in one or more ways. Who do I hold responsible? The manufacturer and selling store/dealer. It takes tons of time and many phone calls/emails to resolve things with any of them because they all suffer from the same problems; shoddy quality control, inferior circuits, cheap off brand parts, etc. I can tear out my hair or accept that this is the way it is and find ways around it.

I was at road atlanta this weekend. I built the engine, suspension, and touched every other part of the car I run there. No technical ability huh? Want to talk valve train geometry about wipe pattern on the tip of the valves from the rocker arms, push rod length, and shimming the springs so they don't develop float? How about fly cutting the pistons for proper P to V clearance, milling the heads to get a better quench out of an ~11.5 to 1 compression ratio with a 12.8deg overlap cam to take advantage of a scavanging merge collector on the headers? I built my car, it runs when I turn the key, and it's a 17 yr old car that thraashes with $100k+ GT3's, Nissan GTR, and the list goes on... But I like to work on my car because it's a race car and that's what you do when you go 160 mph into a turn and need the brakes to work, you prep your own brakes like you pack your own parachute.

I don't expect to have to run around fixing a stock tractor with 41 hours. There's the flaw in your thinking, unfortunately that's a major part of owning anything new these days. I spent weeks calling and writing mahindra and the dealer, so don't assume I was completely negligent. I'm not; can't speak to others who immediately decide you're a troll or some other nonsense. I spent 3 days getting it to run after I called the dealer and they told me to call back after the weekend and see how his schedule looks. My time is free and my observations invalid because I'm not a tractor junkie with thousands of posts? No.

Response to the oil filter issue: the dealer said they never had anyone ask for one of those before... Huh, no one asked for a 4035 oil filter... I'm pretty sure mahindra has that engine in a few different tractors, yet, no one had asked for one of those before... so no, the customer I passed on the way in didn't leave with the last one. lol, nice try though. I am a very down to earth person, what I don't appreciate is going to a dealer and them thinking I'm a stupid know nothing consumer. They told you that or you concluded that because they're largely incompetent? BTW, many smaller dealers don't stock a lot of things they can special order like service manuals, but fuses and oil filters, come on, that's just stupid on their part. Further, I don't appreciate being bashed for expecting a $35k tractor to work. Expecting it to work is one thing, being realistic about things like dash clusters with possible shorts in them is just par for the course with anything with a circuit in it today. I didn't buy it to sort out manufacturer or dealer issues on who assembled what, and would have been very happy plowing snow rather than figuring out why it kept blowing fuses. No one does, and those who get a fully functional machine, of any brand today, should consider themselves lucky, IMHO.

Electrically it's either the gauge cluster or the headlight switch, I guess. The tractor stopped blowing the starter circuit 40A fuse when I unplugged these two items. It had the starter replaced before I ever got it, but draw your own conclusion. Sounds like a possible harness issue, but again something for dealer and mfg. to fix at no expense to you.

For those that asked (and thank you), the local dealer and mahindra have ironed something out to take care of the issues. As it should have been from the get go. I had to make sure that I wasn't getting into a situation where the tractor gets taken in and half the work is covered under warrenty and the other half costs me 3x what everything else should have. I asked a lot of questions before I agreed to let someone "fix" something. My biggest problem is that I expect something to be correct, perform as advertised, and not accepting shoddily performed work. This is why I do most everything myself, so I only have myself to blame and don't have to spend the time chasing someone down to do it correctly, the way it should have been done the first time.
You can let it go somewhat; I'm just like you in that aspect. Ask for what you want /will accept and let it be known up front you will accept no less, (politely), and you may be surprised at the end result, hopefully. You PAID for warranty, use it while it's available, and do everything else yourself. It's not like you're going to build yourself a new dash cluster from spare parts, right?!

Post #4! for those counting

We're definitely monitoring your post count, 'trollmaster':laughing::shocked:
Keep us posted on the outcome, and soon you'll be a happier tractor owner.