Making a hydraulic reservoir

[40Kchicks]

I’m making a hydraulic poultry litter machine which is something like a manure spreader with an uptake sifting belt. I’ll be done in a couple of weeks and will make a post for it. But I have run into a little problem. I need to make a 12”X15”X36” metal hydraulic reservoir. I was talking to a friend who used to be a hydraulic mechanic and he was telling me that their bare metal tanks would rust and the painted metal tanks would flake on the inside. He recommended building it out of stainless. I can cut and weld stainless but I’m concerned about the cost. I will need a 3’X5’ at least 12ga sheet, which means I’ll probably have to buy a 4’X6”. Maybe that won’t be very expensive and I’m worrying about nothing, but something tells me it might be.

Has anyone heard of or used a sealer for steel hydraulic reservoir tanks. After spending $1300 on pumps and motor I would like to make sure that tank isn’t going to containment the hydraulics system. Monday I will be on the phone checking around for new prices, scrap prices, and even possibly a 18” stainless pipe piece to make it out of. But if anyone knows of something that will seal regular steel please let me know.

Eric

Last note: I am going to put a filter on the return of the system and a strainer is ordered for the drain on the tank.

 

[JerryG]

I have yet to see a hydraulic reservoir rust on the inside. I have never seen one that was anything other than unpainted metal on the inside either. The oil will keep the tank from rusting and the oil saturated air in it will not allow rust in the air space.

 

[40Kchicks]

Thanks for the reply Jerry.That would be great if I could just weld, clean and fill. I have some spare sheet metal laying arould that would work if thats the case.

Anyone else have any opinions on the subject?

Eric

 

[Taylortractornut]

The only resevoirs that will rust usually have been left outside with the top off, other than that it shouldnt rust on the inside. I cut up a few 30 year old resevoirs the other day off outside forklift hull that were still slick on the inside. Ive got a pair on some Raymond type pallet lifts that are 2 inches thick and 4 foot by 4 foot for a large cooling area that may get used in a project.

 

[Deerlope]

Make it out of regular mild steel and put a filter in the suction line. If you are still in doubt put a magnet in the tank.

 

[40Kchicks]

This sounds good. I knew I would get some expert advise.

Eric

 

[RWB]

If you have to buy SS get 303 or 304 grade. It is a lower grade SS than 316. I built my diesel tank out of stainless was 2x /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gifthe cost of metal. Steel should be fine for a tank. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Junkman]

If you decide to make your own tank, they I suggest that you purchase bungs at a full line plumbing supply store and weld them in for the connections. Also, consider putting one in the bottom so you can drain the tank fully. Also you can take a piece of 3/4" pipe and cut it at a 60 degree angle and weld it to the side of the tank after you cut an oblong hole in the side for creating a dip stick. The top of the pipe is threaded and to make the dipstick you weld a piece of 1/4" square bar stock to the inside of a 3/4" pipe cap and mark the bar stock where the fluid level is supposed to be...... The plug at the bottom can be a automotive drain plug that has a magnet attached to it....

I will post a picture latter when my camera battery is recharged..... always goes dead just when you want to use it.... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif check back in an hour or two.....

 

[markct]

hmm, an old beer keg would make a nice stainless hyd resivor. just weld a few bungs on and some mounting tabs and you would have a nice tank. on the other side of things, i have never seen a rusted hyd resivor unless like others have said it was left outside uncovered or somehow water got into the system. if ya have that much water in the system then not only will the tank rust but so will the steel in the pumps, valves, fittings and hyd motors. water is very bad for hyd systems altogether. i wouldnt worry about using a stainless tank, but i do have alot of kegs laying around so if i did need a hyd tank that would be one of my first choices anyhow.

 

[Junkman]

I must have been drinking the wrong beer....... all the kegs that I have seen are made of aluminum......

 

[Junkman]

Picture of top........

 

[Junkman]

Picture of bottom....... note the lip that goes into a drilled hole...

 

[gsganzer]

You can buy one that's pre-made from NH Tools. I don't know if they will have the right size, but it's worth checking out.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree with the others.. I just went and looked at the hyd resv. tanks on our cat and JD heavy equipment in the yard.. ALL are unpainted bare steel tanks...

As for rust.... just keep the water out of it... filter and trap should do it for you..
That 'friend'.. was he in the loop to make money?.. I.e... either selling the metal to ya.. or a tank.. etc?


Good luck..

Soundguy

 

[40Kchicks]

Hey you guys are great. This is exactly the information that I was hoping for. I will build it out of some bare 10 ga sheet metal that I already have. I’ll post a picture and let you know how it turned out later in the week.

Junkman. I have printed out one of your pictures and will hunt up one of those treaded bungs. Is that what they are really called? The dip stick suggestion is excellent. That would probably be better than dipping a stick in the breather cap hole.

Markct and gsganzer. I thought about a keg but I’m looking for a specific profile tank so that I can watch the manure feeding up the conveyer. The keg or the tanks I’ve seen for sale don’t have the dimensions I need. Besides I don’t think it will take to long to weld one up.

Soundguy. Thanks for taking a look for me. This again confirms what everyone else is telling me. My friend used to work on the dams on the Columbia River. The tanks he was maintaining were stationary and huge. I would guess that he was seeing rust in the tanks from large areas of metal not covered by oil. And of course the dam is a fairly wet environment. With a small agitated tank like on our tractors and implement it must not be a problem.

Thanks again
Eric

 

[jrlichina]

Make sure you place the return line below the static fluid level so it doesn't airate the fluid.

 

[Junkman]

They are called weldable bungs. As for the dip stick, you can also make it on the top with the same method. Either one will work. If you really want to get fancy, I can try to find the pictures of the sight glass device so you can see the oil and condition of the oil. I was involved in a truck body business at one time and learned a lot of the tricks of the trade. Only wish that I had learned to do more of the work, but that wasn't part of my job. I know theory, but sometimes it is the application of theory that I need to work on.... such as welding and painting.
As the fellow that I worked for in college once said.... you know how to pull the frame to straighten it, but you lack the ability to know how far to pull it and when to stop.... I had stretched a frame out of shape once while trying to pull out a kink....

 

[Deerlope]

You might have a problem with the 10ga and the heavy weldable bung. The base metal(10ga) will want to burn through while getting the bung hot enough to get penatration. If there is not going to be any pressure in this tank you might want to use black iron pipe fittings.

 

[jrlichina]

Surplus Center has the sight glass Junkman was talking about. I think they even have one that has a thermometer built into it as well.

 

[theonlybull]

don't use black iron fittings, anything but the pipe, will be cast iron.

you can buy steel couplings from plumbing supply houses.

the weldable bungs are not a big deal to weld in, keep most of your heat on the bung, and you won't have any penatration/burn through problems.