Likely being more old-school down your way (a compliment BTW), a local repair shop will probably have that fixed quick, at a reasonable price.
It's a relatively easy repair, usually doable even with propane. Basics have been covered well already (clean metal +1)...... the only other major way to get hung up is if the rad is full(ish). With a leak up high, the level may be down enough already, but if the coolant is too close to the repair area it will sink enough heat away to slow down a propane torch.
As covered, some repairs last for years/longer, some, not so much. A big factor IMO is coolant maintenance; if coolant changes have been significantly stretched out, there are likely other weak spots in an older system.
(Edit - if you are somewhat new to soldering/brazing, I'd suggest practicing with propane first, esp. on thinner materials. Until you begin to get some "feel" for applying heat, MAPP can add too much heat into areas you don't want it to).
Rgds, D.
today . Last one I got for $32 . Plastic surebut like one rad shop owner told me once . Plastic cracks copper and aluminum corrode take your pick. Besides, it痴 a lot easier to just change it out than screw with the things.n