3-Point Hitch Marking 3pt leveling arm so it doesn't drop

[lhfarm]

I was working with my BB today and wanted to lower one side as far as possible to start digging a ditch. I went one crank too many and the BB dropped to the ground. I've done this with the rear blade too. I need some sort of visual aid to help me to know when to stop cranking.

I've thought about unscrewing the arm and using something to clean the grease from the end and paint it red. Anyone have a better idea?

Thanks

 

[Racer71]

You could cut a piece of pipe to use as a gauge. Drop the arm to maximum you want and then cut the gauge to match the length.

I wonder how many threads should be left engauged though.

 

[6sunset6]

There are numbers for that but I would say one Diameter of the bolt would be safe .

 

[lhfarm]

You could cut a piece of pipe to use as a gauge. Drop the arm to maximum you want and then cut the gauge to match the length.

I wonder how many threads should be left engauged though.

I would need to find a storage spot on the rear of the tractor. A piece of plastic would be simple to do.

I could also keep a tape measurer in the tool box. Frankly I'm lazy enough that I wouldn't get it out. So I was looking for something that was always there.

Thanks

 

[jinman]

I would need to find a storage spot on the rear of the tractor. A piece of plastic would be simple to do.

I could also keep a tape measurer in the tool box. Frankly I'm lazy enough that I wouldn't get it out. So I was looking for something that was always there.

Thanks

Barry, I think you could mark the maximum extension by filing or grinding grooves perpendicular to the thread cut on the flat surface so that when you see the grooves, you know to stop. Since the weight is on the bottom of the threads, this surface would not cause any rough movement and would give you a visual warning before going to far. The marks would always appear in the same place because the extendable fork does not turn. The movment is all inside the crank housing/assy. You could even mark the housing so that you know just where to look to see the marks emerge.Of course, the real solution is to get a TnT setup and move the adjustable crank to the left side so that you adjust it and leave it. Then use the tilt cylinder to do your adjustments from the comfort of the operator's platform.

 

[BTDT]

I was going to suggest drilling a hole in shaft about an inch from end of threads, but I think the notch jinman suggests would work and probably be easier.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Not sure what the TnT setup is but if the $ are there and you are so inclined, the nicest thing would be to add/use a hyd cyl for the right lift link and control the tilt from your seat.

The pic is of my tractor that had this feature from the factory and is part of an auto adj/leveling system. The divise left of the hyd cyl is a position sensor. I also have an electronic sensor on my qhick mount hitch that work with the hyd cyl and with the flick of a switch I can turn on/off the auto leveling system. It does work in real time to keep implements level.

 

[JerryG]

Not sure what the TnT setup is but if the $ are there and you are so inclined, the nicest thing would be to add/use a hyd cyl for the right lift link and control the tilt from your seat.

The pic is of my tractor that had this feature from the factory and is part of an auto adj/leveling system. The divise left of the hyd cyl is a position sensor. I also have an electronic sensor on my qhick mount hitch that work with the hyd cyl and with the flick of a switch I can turn on/off the auto leveling system. It does work in real time to keep implements level.

I know that Iseki (MF compact builder) and Kubota as well as other Yanmar like yours has similar attachments. Too bad all the nice Japanese options aren't available here. It is truly amazing what they have but we don't. Even the fanciest model here, are bare bones there.

 

[OklaKan]

I don't know for sure but it seems on my 40DA the adjustment is very close to being set in the middle of travel length when the BB is level. If this is correct then you could just crank it up and the other side of the BB would be the low side you wanted to cut the ditch.

Like I side I haven't changed mine much, so maybe you can drop the right side more than you can raise it.

Just athought.

With this site I'm sure you will get the suggeston that will work the best for you.

Good luck.

 

[lhfarm]

Barry, I think you could mark the maximum extension by filing or grinding grooves perpendicular to the thread cut on the flat surface so that when you see the grooves, you know to stop. Since the weight is on the bottom of the threads, this surface would not cause any rough movement and would give you a visual warning before going to far. The marks would always appear in the same place because the extendable fork does not turn. The movment is all inside the crank housing/assy. You could even mark the housing so that you know just where to look to see the marks emerge.Of course, the real solution is to get a TnT setup and move the adjustable crank to the left side so that you adjust it and leave it. Then use the tilt cylinder to do your adjustments from the comfort of the operator's platform.

I agree that a TnT setup would be a great solution, but for now the marking method seems perfect. I think I'll mark the housing with a groove and some white paint as an external visual reminder to always look when I'm cranking. Thanks!