Masonry drilling

   / Masonry drilling #11  
I had to revisit the picture. Didn't see any heavy stone or concrete.

Give it a try.

Thanks for pointing that out, I guess I didn't explain my train of thought at all.. A core drill doesn't have any shock or vibration to split the stone, or break the mortar bond between the stone/brick, brick/brick, nor does it care if you are drilling on an edge of brick. It won't slip off the edge.
 
   / Masonry drilling #12  
I kinda think removing the bottom step and replacing with bluestone topped new concrete might be a more permanent solution.
 
   / Masonry drilling #13  
Its amazing that a lot of the old time methods have not been improved on that much with our new gimmicks. Used that method back in the 50s for setting machinery on concrete bases. Did the holes with a star drill and hammer, no masonry drills back then either. We also used molten lead around a carraige bolt set in the hole head down, then tamp the lead with a punch after it cools. Sulfur was better. Our best pipe thread compound back then was a mixture of "litharge of lead" and glycerin. It was explosion proof. All that good poision stuff is now gone.

Ron

litharge of lead mixed most anything chemical could cause formaldehydes the formation was from the melting of silver ore and the flotsam on surface then mixed . May have the downfall of the Romans.

I know with out a doubt will Cause cancer in California.


And Egon always so practical to think of replacing the lower step then adding the bluestone for solid rail,

ken
 
   / Masonry drilling #14  
Thanks for pointing that out, I guess I didn't explain my train of thought at all.. A core drill doesn't have any shock or vibration to split the stone, or break the mortar bond between the stone/brick, brick/brick, nor does it care if you are drilling on an edge of brick. It won't slip off the edge.

I stopped in here to expand my knowledge about this subject. And it's working. What's a core drill??? :)
 
   / Masonry drilling
  • Thread Starter
#17  
OK, so y'all have me leaning toward diamond core bits. This is outdoors, so keeping it wet is not a problem.

And I'll go along with epoxy set. Is this available at Lowes? Is there any need to use an actual anchor bolt, or just pieces of all-thread?
 
   / Masonry drilling #18  
OK, so y'all have me leaning toward diamond core bits. This is outdoors, so keeping it wet is not a problem.

And I'll go along with epoxy set. Is this available at Lowes? Is there any need to use an actual anchor bolt, or just pieces of all-thread?

What we used was Tigergrout.
Epoxy Anchoring Grout - TIGERGROUT™ HD - Garon Products Inc.

I don't think it is available at Lowes, but you might get a small bit from an ornamental railing company cheap.. We simply made the rails long and placed the ends in the holes in the concrete and poured the grout in. The stuff was super strong. I did some locally 20 years ago, and they're still like new, even with our winters. puddle the grout higher than the surface so the water doesn't pond and rust the post.

Run the core drill very slowly, and use lots of water so it doesn't get hot.
 
   / Masonry drilling #19  
What we used was Tigergrout.
Epoxy Anchoring Grout - TIGERGROUT HD - Garon Products Inc.

I don't think it is available at Lowes, but you might get a small bit from an ornamental railing company cheap.. We simply made the rails long and placed the ends in the holes in the concrete and poured the grout in. The stuff was super strong. I did some locally 20 years ago, and they're still like new, even with our winters. puddle the grout higher than the surface so the water doesn't pond and rust the post.

Run the core drill very slowly, and use lots of water so it doesn't get hot.

Lowes has it in the section with all the metal framing products plus elsewhere . Several brands. The make anchors specifically for epoxy setting. Depending on loading and/or location you could use all thread or rebar but it rusts outdoors; the anchors are plated, galv, or SS. Lowes has it all.

Ron
 
 
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