Massey 135 Barn Find

   / Massey 135 Barn Find
  • Thread Starter
#111  
There were no locking tabs when I opened it up on either the con-rods or the mains. My jensales manual shows locking tabs and nyloc on the DIESEL pictures and my configuration on the GAS model. Looks OK.

As for the lube, it's in there! There is lots of assembly lube coming out, the pictures just doesn't show it and the block was kept clean. I'm just waiting on that strainer now.

The only locking tabs I have encountered were on the flywheel and the timing idler gear and both were new. I also found that the DIESEL side of the service manual discusses the cap locking tabs but the GAS side just describes to install and torque.
 
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   / Massey 135 Barn Find #112  
Great find, and good luck getting her back together. Would love to see some pics of those original implements too, unless you have already posted them and I missed them...
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #113  
You also have me researching those old lawn tractors to match my MF 150...lol Anyone ever owned the MF 16? I think thats the largest one of those models isnt it?
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #114  
Hutch is does look a bit dry on assembly.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find
  • Thread Starter
#115  
So the engine is back on the tractor. I went with all Perkins parts as suggested. I have a head gasket question...

The Perkins gasket has a silicone like coating on it but the manual (40years old) says to use a sealing compound on the head gasket. Should this be installed dry? I suspect that it should be, the old gasket was original copper with sealing compound on it but the new one is quite different.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find
  • Thread Starter
#116  
So the engine is back on the tractor. I went with all Perkins parts as suggested. I have a head gasket question...

The Perkins gasket has a silicone like coating on it but the manual (40years old) says to use a sealing compound on the head gasket. Should this be installed dry? I suspect that it should be, the old gasket was original copper with sealing compound on it but the new one is quite different.

IMG-20120928-00595.jpg

IMG-20120928-00597.jpg
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #117  
I like the new one. It looks like high quality.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #118  
G,Day zsink.
The new gasket is designed to be installed as is (MONOTORQUE or PERMASEAL) are the trade names ,no gasket cement,it has the heat sensitive adhesive which when hot it melts and sticks on something like S*****t to a Blanket !!.
Good to hear she is going back together ,make sure to retorque the head after initial run and warm up the composite gasket does compress a bit more than the composite copper gasket ,and of course recheck the tappets ,better a wee bit loose than tight ,My father used to say if he can hear the tappets everything was good.
Happy Days .
Hutch.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find
  • Thread Starter
#119  
Progress!

The engine was installed and mostly rigged up. Lacking a carb and ignition at this point. I also discovered that I have these great electro-luminesent gauges however I need to replace the coolant temp gauge as the end got mangled during removal. If I can't find a matching gauge I'll fab another with a buzzer because these gauges look too good. I cranked it without the plugs in and got oil pressure very fast and it pretty much pegged the gauge.

Questions:
I bought a new water pump that came with a gasket with a hole in it, does the water pump back right onto the timing cover or is there a full backing plate required like my old one?

Whats a good way to remove the carb bowl, its stuck to the body and I don't want to wreck it prying on it.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #120  
G'day zslnk.
The backing plate should be used it is there to protect the timing cover.
Suggest to loosen the carburetor bowl soak in petrol or diesel for a while and give it a gentle tap with the handle of a screwdriver ,wooden or plastic just generally working at it and you will find it will come of without damage ,be careful when you get it of the float level arm and the float are very delicate, if you are going to remove the float make sure you SUPPORT the casting when removing the pivot pin like hold the shaft of a hammer on to the end and use a small pin punch to gently tap the pin out from the opposite end be carefull it only come out one way if you look closely at the pin you will see small serations on one end of the pin these hold the pin in place so to remove tap from the OPPOSITE END so that the serations come out first ,dont forget to support with a hammer shaft.
Keep up the good work.
Happy days.
Hutch.
 

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