Just share this with any one contemplating converting a diesel Massey 135 to alternator charging from dynamo. I recently managed to convert my Massey Ferguson diesel 135 to alternator charging system , mainly done because the regulator from the old dynamo system had broke and battery was discharging after just a few days standing. Reading the forum posts gave me some of the answers but many refer to gas or petrol fueled Masseys - assume American. Most if not all uk 135's would be diesel. By reading the posts I fitted a two wired alternator. I had to slightly alter the old dynamo bracket just by adding a spacer ,a longer bolt and buying a longer fan belt to keep the pulley alignment straight.
A main problem is one alternator wire (green /brown) is the exciter wire ( knowledge gleaned from other posts here and other forums ) the other thicker wire carries the main charge. These two wires are left there when the old dynamo is taken off.
The exciter wire needs a small current to get the electro magnets of the alternator going. The prob on diesel engines is getting a place where a low current live feed is available. The answer for me was to fit a new ignition switch which has a live ' on' position before turning further cranking the engine, like most cars have. You also need to fit a dashboard panel light, bulb type not led, no probs a 17mm bulb type fitment fits the spare holes on dash panel. One terminal from this new panel light goes to the new ignition switch. The other bulb terminal is connected to the green/ brown wire from, the now disconnected old F terminal on the regulator, you will likely have to extend it to reach ( I had to ). The black earth wires from the regulator are disconnected and taped up (not required). The thicker battery charging wires Brown/white on the regulator are also disconnected and now joined together. The old ignition switch has to be removed and disconnected from its existing wiring of course. I couldn't find any info on wiring up the new switch but the existing wiring and terminal sizes of the new switch gives you some indication of what goes where. A friend helped me by having the new ignition key switched to the on position and one of us then touching each terminal with the new panel bulb lead until the bulb lit up, this gave us the live feed terminal from the switch.Switching the ignition switch to off position and the bulb reassuringly went out, the connection was then made good. The old dynamo wires are connected to the alternator, obvious where because of terminal sizes. Very important that the battery is connected to negative earth. My tractor was old style positive earth so by swopping the battery clamping terminals around converted it to neg earth. Turned the new ign key and up she fired. The new panel light glowed red and went out as the revs increased. When the engine kill switch pulled the engine dies but the ign. switch needs to be turned to off position, panel light then goes out. The ammeter showed great positive charge - if it shows large negative charge then the large terminal wiring on the ign switch need to be reversed. Best to have battery disconnected for most of the procedure. Old regulator is left just sitting there. Hope my experience helps anyone else. Any inaccuracies please feel free to correct , I have only described what I have done and it appears to work.
Thanks,
Mal
A main problem is one alternator wire (green /brown) is the exciter wire ( knowledge gleaned from other posts here and other forums ) the other thicker wire carries the main charge. These two wires are left there when the old dynamo is taken off.
The exciter wire needs a small current to get the electro magnets of the alternator going. The prob on diesel engines is getting a place where a low current live feed is available. The answer for me was to fit a new ignition switch which has a live ' on' position before turning further cranking the engine, like most cars have. You also need to fit a dashboard panel light, bulb type not led, no probs a 17mm bulb type fitment fits the spare holes on dash panel. One terminal from this new panel light goes to the new ignition switch. The other bulb terminal is connected to the green/ brown wire from, the now disconnected old F terminal on the regulator, you will likely have to extend it to reach ( I had to ). The black earth wires from the regulator are disconnected and taped up (not required). The thicker battery charging wires Brown/white on the regulator are also disconnected and now joined together. The old ignition switch has to be removed and disconnected from its existing wiring of course. I couldn't find any info on wiring up the new switch but the existing wiring and terminal sizes of the new switch gives you some indication of what goes where. A friend helped me by having the new ignition key switched to the on position and one of us then touching each terminal with the new panel bulb lead until the bulb lit up, this gave us the live feed terminal from the switch.Switching the ignition switch to off position and the bulb reassuringly went out, the connection was then made good. The old dynamo wires are connected to the alternator, obvious where because of terminal sizes. Very important that the battery is connected to negative earth. My tractor was old style positive earth so by swopping the battery clamping terminals around converted it to neg earth. Turned the new ign key and up she fired. The new panel light glowed red and went out as the revs increased. When the engine kill switch pulled the engine dies but the ign. switch needs to be turned to off position, panel light then goes out. The ammeter showed great positive charge - if it shows large negative charge then the large terminal wiring on the ign switch need to be reversed. Best to have battery disconnected for most of the procedure. Old regulator is left just sitting there. Hope my experience helps anyone else. Any inaccuracies please feel free to correct , I have only described what I have done and it appears to work.
Thanks,
Mal
