Massey Ferguson Industrial 20 Perkins Gas troubles

[Jerry/MT]

The MF manual says 12 degrees static, but my next step is to fiddle with the timing again and I will try retarding and re-setting the static timing. (Thursday's job) I have checked the fuel system again, through and through. I removed the carb and re-set the float level, which was a bit off, run it without the fuel cap etc. I am wondering if when I installed the distributor I was a tooth off? But then, when I set the timing, I used the valve position as a guide for TDC, and of course the position of the rotor, #1 wire, and it lined up, so it must be installed correctly? I just know it will be something uncomplicated I am overlooking, staring me in the face, so all your opinions are greatly appreciated.
I haven't tried a new condenser yet, will do Thurs.

If your book says 12°BTDC then you should use that as the static timing mark. However it sound too advanced to me. Are you sure you are on the compression stroke? I believe the Perkins is a 3 cylinder so use it's firing order when replacing plug wires. Here's how I time my Continental Z129.

First lets find the compression stroke on the # 1 cylinder( closest to the radiator).

Pull the plugs and bump the starter holding a thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. When you feel pressure on your thumb, you are on the compression stroke. Now rotate the engine to the low idle timing mark. (it's around 6° or7° BTDC). At this point the rotor should be pointing at approximately the 10 o'clock position and that's where the #1 spark plug wire should be on the distributor cap. Now put a paper clip or a bent wire in the #1 spark plug wire boot and loosen the distributor just enough so you can rotate it back and forth. Turn on the ignition and hold the paper clip near a good ground. (Make sure your fingers are on the boot or you'll know what 10,000 volts feels like!) Rotate the distributor back and forth in ever increasing increments until you hear the spark snap. This is your static timing point. You will probably have to do this several times to get it correct but when you feel you do, tighten down the distributor without moving it. Put the plugs back in and attach the wires 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise from #1 and start the engine. Check with a timing light and rev the engine looking for the timing change. That verifies that the centrifugal advance is working correctly. Return to low idle and check timing adjusting if required.
You might consider going to the Massey Ferguson Forum on Yesterday's Tractors and searching the archives.

 

[brookmere]

By jove, I think I've got it. I am not sure if it was a singular problem, or a collection, but it had to do with the ignition I am thinking. I went through it all very carefully (re-adjusted points, timing and a new condenser) and managed to find, by chance I think, the problem. It still hiccups a bit on acceleration, but not enough to bother me. No more backfire. Thanks to all in this forum who offered advice, you were a great help.

 

[mrpilotman]

I have a MF 20 industrial With Perkins 3cylinder gas engine. I changed the spark plugs and wires. I was running fine before. I also changed the fuel filter bowl gasket and bowl hanger. Now its a backfiring mess and will only reluctantly reach 18-1900 rpm. Any suggestions and specifically does anyone have the correct plug gap and are you required to reset points with new plugs

 

[BleedingOrange]

I,m trying to help my son that has a Massey Ferguson 20 Industrial, with the 2.5L Perkins 3 cylinder gas engine. I,m having trouble finding a you tube video or some documentation on how to properly set the float level on the Zenith 13338 carb. It will sometimes start, and run for less than a minute, and then seems to flood out. Also, if anyone knows the intial setting for the one external adjustible screw, I could use that as well. A diagram showing the float adjustment would a huge help. If anyone can direct me to an online manual for the complete engine, I would be willing to buy one of those as well.

 

[Williy]

The condenser is really a capacitor and when it
gets hot could open and you get the backfire etc.
I had a 65 mustang that would only go 55 mph as
the condenser wire was so long it was shorting out
on the rotor shaft and the ford mechs could not figure
out what the problem was. It was under warranty so
back to ford. After 6 or 7 trips to the ford mechs I
decided to see for myself. removed the distributor
cover pulled the rotor off and you could see the
condenser wire had a bare spot. I didn't have a new
one so some electrical tape folded the wire and taped
it to shorten it and no more problem.

willy