Buying Advice May have found my first tractor

[Giesetraveler]

Thanks to the folks this Fall that gave me input on a tractor.
I have about 30Ac tillable, 40 timber, another 20 low flood plain, none worked for decades. Sandy loam with lots of volunteer poplar, birch, tamarack, spruce, white and red pine and of course tag alder. plan to start tilling open areas and to take back some territory.
I am looking at a used mid 70's Ford 5000 gas. My local dealer took it in trade because the owner needed a slower reverse gear for his snowblower.
The dealer has serviced this rig for the last several years so knows it. Apparently he was told there may be some pto issues so he said he would go over it. He thought it would sell for 6K-6500 with original big front bucket.
Based on what I have seen here and other sites this seems like a reasonable price. I just used the dealer for some other hydraulic work and they were good and fair. He also said I could give it a try to make sure it was what I was looking for.
I had originally looked for a 30-40 hp CUT with FEL but based on comments think a 65 hp heavier rig will be a better rig all around.
Any input to this newbie would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[DennisFolsom]

He also said I could give it a try to make sure it was what I was looking for.

You ought to take him up on that. A trial on your property would be ideal.

If it performs well, and is in good shape, you're getting into a tractor for a pretty reasonable price.

Good luck!

 

[Soundguy]

ford 5000 in my area go for about 5000$ for a diesel 8spd.

hmm.. needed a slower reverse gear?? odd.

the 8spd tranny has 2 reverses.. one is a crawl....

pto issues?

check that. it's a hyd activated pto.. if pressur eis low or the clutch pack is worn.. it will be a decent repair bill.

soundguy

 

[strum456]

If your plans are to start working ground, you will be much more happy with the 5000 than a 35 hp compact. The 5000 is to a compact, as the compact is to a lawn tractor.

I have done my share of snowblowing with the 8x2 trans.. Low is plenty slow and high is pretty fast. The problem is the lack of gears inbetween. Doing a long drive in low can be a drag, and you feel like a fighter pilot in high. Maybe that is what the guy was trying to say???

 

[Giesetraveler]

Thanks for the info all
In central MN anything in the 65hp class in diesel if you can find them seem to be more here.
Don't know why

 

[Giesetraveler]

If your plans are to start working ground, you will be much more happy with the 5000 than a 35 hp compact. The 5000 is to a compact, as the compact is to a lawn tractor.

I have done my share of snowblowing with the 8x2 trans.. Low is plenty slow and high is pretty fast. The problem is the lack of gears inbetween. Doing a long drive in low can be a drag, and you feel like a fighter pilot in high. Maybe that is what the guy was trying to say???

You are probablt right about the wide range between low and high. Long drives with lots of in reverse I can see the need for a little middle ground

 

[AKfish]

Couple of things that would concern me... 2WD and gas.

I have been back and forth regarding a higher Hp tractor that would be a backup hay tractor and snow removal/loader machine.

There's some very good deal's on the 5000 frame sized machines. But... everytime I've used a 2WD tractor moving snow and cleaning the corral during the winter - I end up gettin' stuck and having the front end slide all over creation! PITA! Even with chains.

Unless it was a real low-hour gas machine - I'd pass. I appreciate the long-life of a diesel engine and the better fuel economy.

Guess that the higher torque (when the baler slugs into a heavy spot in the windrow) doesn't hurt, either.

My $0.02

AKfish

 

[Soundguy]

with large loaded and chained? tires and diffy lock.. IMHO.. 2wd on a largish tractor ain't so bad.

gasser might start a hair easier in arctic.. but the pto issue is what would make me look it over REAL good first..

 

[whodat526]

with large loaded and chained? tires and diffy lock.. IMHO.. 2wd on a largish tractor ain't so bad.

gasser might start a hair easier in arctic.. but the pto issue is what would make me look it over REAL good first..

pto isn't to bad to repair on a 5000 as long and the clutch pack housing is cracked you can replace all seals plates and orings with labor for around 750 to 900 this is what i charge atleast

 

[Soundguy]

that's my point. it's ot a cheap repair.. near 1g$ he's already looking at paying premium money for a 5000.. he needs to think about the possibility of a 800$ repair. or more $$$ if the dealer does it.. like maybee 2-3x as much.

I did the hyd ind wet clutch pack on my step dads jd 2240 a while back.

parts were 600$.. oil another 120$.. 2 days of my free labor etc.. etc. plus incedentals like cleaning supplies and a line or fititng or 2 we broke splitting her.. etc.

oh yeah.. (1) 50$ shop charge to pack/unpack a spring compressed pack apart..e tc.

all adds up.

if the op can do his own wrench work.. not bad..

soundguy