Maybe a Step 'Backwards', But Handy?

[MossRoad]

Actually we were both saying you need a open center valve for the PT's constant volume [always flowing] circuits; this will hold true whether you have a PB port or just go in series. I confused the issue by further noting that there are cylinder spools and motor spools, which I've seen refered to in relation to "center" as well. Northern doesn't seem to specify cylinder or motor; perhaps I'm blind or perhaps they assume you want cylinder spools. Either way sorry about the confusion.

Actually, I used manual valves, I'll see if the search finds my thread on that for some pictures.

If the solenoid valve just switches the output of one circuit between the quick attach cylinder and the power angle cylinder on an attachment like a snowplow, or the jaws cylinder on the 4-in-1 or grapple it is just an A/B switch. I wouldn't think it would have to be open center or closed center. I don't think it would have any center. Just one port in for supply, two ports out for supplying circuit A or B, two ports in for the returns of the A and B circuits, and one port out for return to the tractor.

Here's a link to a manual valve, instead of an electric one. It has 6 ports as I described above. The only difference between the electric one and the manual one is that a solenoid will operate it instead of your hand.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_20870_20870

This would allow you to put the solenoid valve out on the end of your lift arms and only have to run short little hoses. Then run some wires back to the switch on the joystick. I could also see this on the end of a backhoe to operate a thumb.

 

[Spiffy]

I don't think it would have any center.

Exactly, it behaves as the valve you are sharing from. From the link you posted, NT definitely has a better picture of a manual selector valve than SurplusCenter [an earlier link, JJ perhaps]; not sure whose's better on prices.

As far as the electric selector valve, I'd say it's a great option for the minihoe, where you'll want one hand on the wheel, but have treadle control too for backward movement.

My initial problem [PTO and BH were factory plumbed parallel] would have been satisfied by an electric or manual selector just like here [and had I not needed to switch from the seat, the ball valve like Bobs was fine], but to add more capability yet, my solution was a bit different [though the side benefits still apply here].

 

[Spiffy]

Link

This is the valve I used. I use the float position as the "center" [thus essentially acting as a motor spool] for my PTO on the first spool, the dentented ON position on the 3rd spool works great for the BH (downline valve banks not the mini-hoe), and the middle position I'm saving for something like a grapple or tilt, but haven't ran hoses yet.

The PTO then can be FWD or neutral [the 4th position], but unless you want to jerk your hydraulics hard, you must go slowly from FWD to REV [or OFF, between FWD and REV] but in REV I ussually don't run full speed anyway. If it'd been Dentend ON, ON, Neutral [as opposed to OFF, hoping to avoid open/closed nomenclature], Rev, that would perfect, but I'm the only one that runs the PTO so I don't mind - especially having saved about $200 over a custom configuration

As [I think MR] noted earlier, the hoses and fittings can be a hidden expense.

 

[Spiffy]

Forgot to note that one has about double the flow you'd need for a 4XX; I'm planning to upgrade my PTO pump from 15 to 20 someday (actually have a pump, but starting figuring numbers on my attachments and 30 was just too much).

 

[BobRip]

I went to use the mini hoe today and found that the right hose was too short with the hydraulics modification. I had put a 90 deg elbow on the left side, but had not seen the need for one on the right at least when using the buckets. However it does make a difference with the mini hoe. Fortunately I had a spare, put it on and it works fine. It makes sense, since the original fittings were in this orientation and close to the same location. I have attached a picture.

Bob Rip

 

[MossRoad]

Hey, Bob... just a note that your pictures are HUGE! About half a meg each. It takes a good 4 minutes for anyone on dial-up to look at them.

 

[BobRip]

Uh, Op. I just loaded some more. They allow upto a megabyte now. Maybe I should still limit it to close to 100 Kbytes.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

I have put the updated modfication in "Auxiliary Hydraulics Modification for 422/425" so all of the latest data is together.

Bob Rip

 

[ddonnell]

I've been reading this thread and want to make sure I understand the connecting/disconnecting hose issue. When I want to disconnect my FEL on my Legacy CUT, all I do is turn off the engine and move the joystick around in all 4 directions a few times and this equalizes/ lets off the pressure to the quick disconnects so that re-attachment in the future is no problem. It's my assumption that this "wobbling" the joystick around neutralizes pressure throughout the hydro/hydraulic system in the tractor. Is that not how it works on the 425?

 

[Bob999]

I've been reading this thread and want to make sure I understand the connecting/disconnecting hose issue. When I want to disconnect my FEL on my Legacy CUT, all I do is turn off the engine and move the joystick around in all 4 directions a few times and this equalizes/ lets off the pressure to the quick disconnects so that re-attachment in the future is no problem. It's my assumption that this "wobbling" the joystick around neutralizes pressure throughout the hydro/hydraulic system in the tractor. Is that not how it works on the 425?

That is is way it works on a PT.

However there are circumstances where pressure can build up after the pressure is relieved. For example, if it is a cool day when you do the pressure equalization and disconnect a grapple bucket from the machine and then the temperature increases there may be enought pressure build up in the grapple bucket hydraulics to make reconnection difficult or impossible without relieving the pressure.