CDN Farm Boy
Veteran Member
I very quickly got tired of getting off the tractor to set the mechanical thumb and often found myself batting stuff around with the bucket to get it to just the right spot where I could leave the thumb in one spot. I had already installed a 4 spool hyd valve for remotes (3 rear, 1 future front) I run the BH off one of these rather than the PB loop which is WAY easier for mounting and dismounting.
I cheaped out and ran them off one of my other pairs of rear QD's rather than a valve mounted on the BH itself. If I get fed up with having 4 hoses to connect and have an extra $500 burning a hole in my pocket I might switch but for now, I'm up and running. The only mods I've done that aren't easily reversible is to weld 2 mounts on for the hose clamps. If I ever needed to it would take me about 10 min max to remove this and put the mechanical linkage back on.
2 x 10 cyl, 27' of 1/4" hose, some fittings and hose protector, all told, I'm into it for $250. All parts other than the QD's were from Princess Auto. I'd ordered extra male QD's when I did the remote install so I would have them available.
This is the cyl that will be replacing the mechanical linkage.
I had to cut the base mount off the cyl, turn it 90 deg and weld it back on and also narrow the head mount from 2" to 1.5". The base mount needs to be turned so the ports are on the side.
The ram was mounted and welded in place to ensure that the pin boss was perfectly in line with the cyl body.
The head mount needed to be narrowed to fit in the space of the old linkage
Lines were run on the outside of the stick and then go down inside the hole in the top of the boom
The width of the thumb actually provides some protection for the head port. Lines were plumbed direct to the ram, no QD's at this end as I never plan to use an auger etc.
The lines were fished thru the existing hose protector at the base of the main boom
I've got a 4 spool valve for remotes (3 rear, 1 future front) The BH is run off one pair with 3/8 couplers, the thumb is on the top 1/4" pair, easy to reach with my right hand by my left elbow.
Everything tucks in nice and tight from the operator's seat, zero change in visibility
If I leave the valve activated for the BH, I can still run the thumb but it is slow (flow is split between 2 open ports). If I neutral the valve powering the BH, the ram works nice and quick. This will give me incentive to order replacement detent kit that I lost the spring out of during install and have been using a cedar shim to hold open for now.
I cheaped out and ran them off one of my other pairs of rear QD's rather than a valve mounted on the BH itself. If I get fed up with having 4 hoses to connect and have an extra $500 burning a hole in my pocket I might switch but for now, I'm up and running. The only mods I've done that aren't easily reversible is to weld 2 mounts on for the hose clamps. If I ever needed to it would take me about 10 min max to remove this and put the mechanical linkage back on.
2 x 10 cyl, 27' of 1/4" hose, some fittings and hose protector, all told, I'm into it for $250. All parts other than the QD's were from Princess Auto. I'd ordered extra male QD's when I did the remote install so I would have them available.
This is the cyl that will be replacing the mechanical linkage.
I had to cut the base mount off the cyl, turn it 90 deg and weld it back on and also narrow the head mount from 2" to 1.5". The base mount needs to be turned so the ports are on the side.
The ram was mounted and welded in place to ensure that the pin boss was perfectly in line with the cyl body.
The head mount needed to be narrowed to fit in the space of the old linkage
Lines were run on the outside of the stick and then go down inside the hole in the top of the boom
The width of the thumb actually provides some protection for the head port. Lines were plumbed direct to the ram, no QD's at this end as I never plan to use an auger etc.
The lines were fished thru the existing hose protector at the base of the main boom
I've got a 4 spool valve for remotes (3 rear, 1 future front) The BH is run off one pair with 3/8 couplers, the thumb is on the top 1/4" pair, easy to reach with my right hand by my left elbow.
Everything tucks in nice and tight from the operator's seat, zero change in visibility
If I leave the valve activated for the BH, I can still run the thumb but it is slow (flow is split between 2 open ports). If I neutral the valve powering the BH, the ram works nice and quick. This will give me incentive to order replacement detent kit that I lost the spring out of during install and have been using a cedar shim to hold open for now.