Metal in oil pan--
- Thread starter paulBurns
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Egon
Epic Contributor
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 3-4 small flat pieces showing signs of heat discoloration and friction lines on them )</font>
Think I'd follow the oil pan removal advice.
Egon
Think I'd follow the oil pan removal advice.
Egon
normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
My first thought was to remove the pan and inspect, also, except you said you weren't very mechanically inclined. Maybe you could get a friend or neighbor to assist you. It would be well worth the effort and could possibly save your engine. If you don't have a service manual, I'm sure someone can give you the bearing cap torque specs.
WOW
I just spent a long time trying to put up a picture of the pices found in the oil pan and then found out it is sooo simple.
The above picture shows the pices found--I had put them up not to lose them and forgot where I put them. getting older??
Anyway I found that the larger and most of them were a carbon like substance which I could pulverize with my fingernail.(GREAT) I guess.
The metal pices were very thin and were of two colors. Some looked like copper and some like steel. The dime show them for campirson as to size.
The metal pices were small and I cannot say for sure that they were not in the oil change pan before I started. I do know they were in there when I finished.
Any new thoughts after looking at the picture or would you still say take to the shop and get it inspected. Thanks all.
I want to thank you boys again for the advice and help. If you don't know anything about mechanicing you help much more than you would ever know.
I just spent a long time trying to put up a picture of the pices found in the oil pan and then found out it is sooo simple.
The above picture shows the pices found--I had put them up not to lose them and forgot where I put them. getting older??
Anyway I found that the larger and most of them were a carbon like substance which I could pulverize with my fingernail.(GREAT) I guess.
The metal pices were very thin and were of two colors. Some looked like copper and some like steel. The dime show them for campirson as to size.
The metal pices were small and I cannot say for sure that they were not in the oil change pan before I started. I do know they were in there when I finished.
Any new thoughts after looking at the picture or would you still say take to the shop and get it inspected. Thanks all.
I want to thank you boys again for the advice and help. If you don't know anything about mechanicing you help much more than you would ever know.
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
I think I'd want to at least test the oil pressure, esp on startup and after it's warm. If it holds good pressure (use a good mechanical gauge plumbed into the line), I might be tempted to just leave it alone........
normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
"The metal pices were small and I cannot say for sure that they were not in the oil change pan before I started."
That could make a big difference, for sure. I strongly suspect the pieces that look like copper are fragments of a main or rod bearing. I have not actually seen a Yanmar bearing but I would guess they are made of babbitt, a copper alloy.
That could make a big difference, for sure. I strongly suspect the pieces that look like copper are fragments of a main or rod bearing. I have not actually seen a Yanmar bearing but I would guess they are made of babbitt, a copper alloy.
I want to thank each for the good advice---here is the present status of my 3110. I did operate it about 10 hrs and checked it for anything abnormal-- after about 2 hours of hard pulling the oil light flickered when at about 1400 RPM. The oil was hot and was not low--checked the screen o the radiator and it was stopped up pretty bad, I cleand the radiatorscreen, let the notor cool overnight and loaded it on the trailer. No oil light but it is now in the shop of a local used tractor repair shop. No news yet.
Final on 3110 problem.
The shop dropped the pan and found that the crank was broke. Bad news was a replacement cost about 850 bucks. They would not accept the broke one so had to pay core cost.
While motor was tore down they did complete rebuild including new oil pump. Final cost was about 2100 dollars.
Parts are hard to find sometimes!!!
The replace crank was stamped JohnDeer.
Thanks again for all the help from this forum......
The shop dropped the pan and found that the crank was broke. Bad news was a replacement cost about 850 bucks. They would not accept the broke one so had to pay core cost.
While motor was tore down they did complete rebuild including new oil pump. Final cost was about 2100 dollars.
Parts are hard to find sometimes!!!
The replace crank was stamped JohnDeer.
Thanks again for all the help from this forum......
ym2610
Silver Member
Hey Paul, sorry to here it was the crank, from your pics I would have never thought it was a broke crank, I work in a shop and have seen a broke crank, usually a lot more metal than that, should your pic to are shop foreman and he said the same as others, probably a trust bearing, told him it was a crank, he couldn't believe it, anyway glad you got it back and going, I bet it has more power, have you noticed any gain. Robert