Metal roof for the Woodshed #2: How much overhang is too much?

[Redlands Okie]

Ice and wind are for sure issues to be aware of. I think the others are right.


Perhaps you could add a 2 x 4 (so it would miss your hurricane straps) that would be about 3 to 4 feet long to the side of your existing rafters to extend them out. I would glue and screw them on really well.
Then run a 2 x 6 on edge at the bottom edge of the tin like you would do for a facia. This would stiffen up and support the edge and help to hide the extended rafters.

 

[Capt Dan]

What would happen if you put another piece of roofing underneath. Loosen the screws and put a 2-3 foot piece of the same profile under then put screw back in. Would this create a condensation problem. I had thought of this for something of my own at one time but never did it.

 

[Capt Dan]

I wish I had looked at the pictures before I thought to double the thickness. It does look like a lot of overhang.

 

[Capt Dan]

If you want to keep the overhang you could attach some 2x4 by 4 feet long pieces to the rafters. You could then put a 2x6 vertically at the end of them like a facia. Then screw roofing down to it. Still leave an overhang just not as much. Not really that much work depending on length. Nail gun or screws could speed it up.

Just went back and see Redlands said same thing. It didn't register first time I read it.

 

[FTG-05]

I would screw on a 2x4 laterally about 2" back from the edge, and then screw a 3' "cripple" 2x4 on to every 2nd, or every 3rd rafter. That will be enough to keep things stable, and you will have peace of mind.

That's what I did the day after I started this thread. Don't have pics yet, but will shortly.

Thanks,

 

[FTG-05]

Why do you put plywood under R panel metal roofing? I know you have to for hidden seam metal roofs because it needs the support, but R panels don't need that level of support. Just set your purlins at the distance required by the manufacturer. Here, it's every four feet. Do you pout roofing paper on top of the plywood to deal with the condensation that forms under the metal?

Why do "most builders" not extend the roof more then 12 inches? Hardie makes a soffit board that's 16 inches wide that seems to sell pretty good, and is pretty common on new construction around here.

This is how it's done here. on woodshed build #1 (documented here somewhere), the roof joists were set at 24" on center with the 1x4 purloins also on 24" center.

In this build, I reduced it to 23 1/2" on center for both, since the same jig was used for both. Also, instead of 1x4s, I used 2x4s for the purloins. It was far easier to use 2x4x10' rather than 1x4x8's.

The 24" on center was per the steel roof manufacturer's recommendations (I asked for woodshed build #1 since i had no clue) and it will support a 225# man very easily.

 

[FTG-05]

Another concern is if you ever have to get on the roof, or lean a ladder against that unsupported edge....the metal alone wont hold. IT will likely buckle.

Only two real options I see.
1. Add a 2x4 to build an "overhang jack". Menards sells overhang jacks, as their polebarn trusses come without overhangs. So if one wants overhangs.....they buy overhang jacks. Which is basically what I think airbiscuit was describing.
2. Cut it back.

I'd prefer to add the jack. Cutting it will leave an edge that is unpainted and unprotected.

No building codes to follow I assume? or is this thing gonna have to be inspected? If inspected, the choice of fasteners you used in all the tie plates is gonna be a huge red flag.

No inspection; it's a woodshed, not a presidential nuclear war bunker.

What's wrong with the tie plate fasteners?

 

[FTG-05]

I'd be concerned about wind too. But I don't know the location and surroundings. My residence property and my farm are exposed to high wind with no cover surrounding the buildings.

Edit: After studying the pics better, it appears he is well protected from wind? With no heavy snow load he might get along fine.

Just the opposite actually.

I live on a hill, with the pole barn at the highest point on my property. In the front is a wide, broad valley, where most of the wind comes from. the other two sides of the pole barn field go down into two deep Tennessee hollows. Wind pretty much all the time. And if we have high winds, the pole barn field (and pole barn) are going to see the worst of it. Woodshed #2 is on the windy side of the pole barn.

 

[ovrszd]

Just the opposite actually.

I live on a hill, with the pole barn at the highest point on my property. In the front is a wide, broad valley, where most of the wind comes from. the other two sides of the pole barn field go down into two deep Tennessee hollows. Wind pretty much all the time. And if we have high winds, the pole barn field (and pole barn are going to see the worst of it). Woodshed #2 is on the windy side of the pole barn.

Bummer. Without some alteration you're probably gonna lose it.

 

[Deere Dude]

Just the opposite actually.

I live on a hill, with the pole barn at the highest point on my property. In the front is a wide, broad valley, where most of the wind comes from. the other two sides of the pole barn field go down into two deep Tennessee hollows. Wind pretty much all the time. And if we have high winds, the pole barn field (and pole barn are going to see the worst of it). Woodshed #2 is on the windy side of the pole barn.

It's not quite the same but I have a big barn that had 8" overlap on the gable ends and a couple inches on the eve ends. We had a good wind and I noticed one corner had 3-4 pieces of galvanized fold over on me.

I cut off everything hanging over the gable ends and covered it with steel corners and screwed it down good. That is just so wind couldn't hook it. On the eve ends I put a 2x6 an inch above the ends and extended some extra tails on the roof joists to solidify the fascia and metal ends.