Metal roof frustrations

   / Metal roof frustrations #31  
I use the string method at the drip edge. I place it 7/16" lower on the slope than I want the steel edge to be. After the first sheet, each successive sheet is placed on the first, with clamps to hold the overlapping ridge area tight, both top and bottom. The lengths of the sheets are aligned perfectly before the clamps are closed onto the overlapping ridge area. The clamps are needle nose vice grips with small sections of plastic/rubber tubing slid on to protect the roofing sheets. Every sheet, take a little chunk of 7/16" plywood shim out of your work belt and check the distance to the string. If you are confident, eye-balling this gap is fine. If hired help, teach them to use the shim. After applying the clamps both bottom and top edge, if the panel seems to be running away from the string, step down on one of the ridges of the upper end of the panel to stretch it wider, or if the panel seems to run toward the string, step down on a ridge close to the bottom to stretch the panel the other way so it steers away from the string. Don't put more than four screws in any panel until you have about five or six on the roof and you have confidence that you are started correctly. The roof will not be square and the lines will not be straight. But you can make it look good with these ideas. I reroofed an open sided shed last year that was so fricked up looking when I started you would not believe it could be roofed without cutting the panels. NO cutting was needed, and it turned out nearly perfect. If I had taken just a bit more time on the first three sheets, I could say it came out perfect, but I got in a hurry and had put in most all the screws so I resisted going back when I saw a correction was needed. So I stretched the panels to make up the angle, and its slightly visible as a reduction in the steel overhang in one area, if you look closely.
Sorry, but you have to pull the sheets. There is no way you can cut them straight enough with them on the roof. And as mentioned, every one of the three steel manufacturers I have used product from have strictly forbid the use of a circular saw to cut the material.
 
   / Metal roof frustrations #32  
Run a string on the eave for your desired overhang. While sheeting you can stretch or cheat back the bottom or top of the sheet to maintain your distance from your string. Are you using "R" panal or "Ag" panal? You can rent some nibblers to cut your metal with, or use some shears that attach to a drill, or you can use a old flipped saw blade. Either way, if the eave of the building is bowed, or sagging you will notice it with a strait "square" over hang, or if you just measured off the eave of the building and maintained that measurement throughout the length of the wall. Are you screwing strai to the existing shingles or did you put 1x4 lads and moisture barrier?
 
   / Metal roof frustrations #33  
Try is, I hook 4 or 5 sheets together with metal 2X4 screws. Square them to what you want to, then screw them down. Then keep doing that and keeping square with the last, it also hepls with the metal growing on you. Have done this and doing it right now.
 
   / Metal roof frustrations
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Well, here is the update. We took a little time off to clear our heads and then hit it again this week. We ran a string across the eave and pulled a large 3-4-5 triangle off it. This confirmed the first sheet was truly square to the eave. However, the end of the sheet was not parallel to the string. We loosened a couple of sheets and shifted them so the overhang was consistent but it was apparent that we were going to end up with a saw tooth edge. We loosened the first sheet and then swung it 1.5" over so the bottom edge was parallel to the string. Now the eave edge laid out ok, but we were no longer perpendicular to it.. At this point we decided to stop thinking about it and just start screwing sheets down. Of course we forgot to recenter the sheets when we swung them so the end gaps are unequal but I don't think anybody will ever notice that. What I think people will notices is that the rake edge profile isn't parallel to the ribs. It's pretty obvious that there was something wrong with the garage and we couldn't win.
 
   / Metal roof frustrations #35  
When my father in-law had his metal roof installed on his house, the installers screwed a 2x4 on each end of the house with a 10 inch overhang or so, hanging off the eave/front of the house. This gave them enough room to square up the string. They then put a screw into each 2x4 and ran string from one 2x4 to the other 2x4 squaring this line to the roof as the eave edge. This allowed them to have a straight line to use versus the non straight eave line. Leaving the string in place, they then used this line as the overhang and cut each panel from the ridge to the string. Thus allowing the eave overhang to be the same, but leaving any uneven length under the ridge cap. This also helped to make sure each panel was in line with the other on the eave end as the person would just line the end of the metal panel up to the string.

I used to put up aluminum awnings on mobile homes with my brothers and i have put a few galvalume roofs on too including my house. We use the method above and run the string 1/4" below where you want the bottom of the panels. As you put the panels on you just eyeball the 1/4" from the string to the bottom of the panels. It is easy to do and will look good from the ground.
As far as cutting the panels, I bought an electric shear but it did not cut over the ridges so i cut the ridges with a cut off wheel and then swept the shavings off. So far after about 7 years, no rust.

I own buildings with 5V and galvalume roofs and I think galvalume is a much better product.
 

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