Metal Shop Building - Upgrades

   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #11  
We went with 12" overhangs on our 42' x 72' x 12' polebarn ... wish I had gone the extra bucks for 24" ... also wish I would have went taller (14' or 15')
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #12  
For a shop that large I would go with a red steel building, not one with tubular steel frame/truss construction.

Wall height: 12 ft minimum

Consider a pull through design with a split sliding barn door (12' H x 15'W) on the two 30' walls.

Man door width: 36" wide is standard

Skylights

Concrete aprons at each door

Concrete floor: 6" thick, 4000 psi concrete, #4 rebar on 24" centers, plastic vapor barrier 10 mil thick under the slab.
Position attachment bolts for major equipment before the concrete pour to minimize the amount of hole drilling in the slab for anchor bolts.

Good luck and post a lot of photos when construction starts
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #13  
I will shortly have a 30' x 65' metal shop, storage type building constructed.
I want to specify construction that is above the norm.
Any thoughts and additions to my list would be appreciated.

Heaver Gauge steel 24 vs 26 vs 29?
Standing seam / hidden fasteners for the roof, instead of exposed screws with rubber washers?
Overhang's all sides 12" or xx"?
Gutters?
Roof pitch?
Panel width?
Roll up door vs garage type door?
Man door width 32", 34", 36" or xx"?
Storage area on the side?
Carport type area on the front?
Rafter spacing?

Thanks,
Jim

For me heavier gauge steel and hidden fasteners would be optional. If your going to run into the building with something it doesn't matter what the gauge of the steel is you are still going to have wrinkled metal.
24" overhang for sure. Yes it costs more but your building doesn't look so cheap and it helps to get the water away form the walls and footings.
Gutters only by the side doors and elsewhere as needed.
Roof pitch should be the same as other buildings in the area that meet code.
36" is standard panel width up here.
Roll up doors are extra maintenance and garage doors catch the wind. Pick what you can live with.
Man doors as wide as practical. 34" minimum. Narrow doors and carrying anything is a pain.
If you don't build a side storage area now at least make it so that you can add it later.
Carport area yes if you get lots of rain.
Here commercial buildings need 24" spacing. Just storage can be 48" rafter spacing. 24" is nice if you ever want to put up plywood to keep the birds from nesting in the rafters or if you later want to convert the building to a work shop.
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #14  
Make sure you have good ventilation! Gable fan of 24" minimum. Just my experience. Also what Flusher and PMS stated above. Best regards, Bob
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #15  
Finish the ceiling off inside and blow in lots of insulation. Without the ceiling insulation, it really gets hot fast when the sun shines. A ceiling will end all of the bird dropping and nesting problems.
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #16  
Put plywood on the whole thing before the steel goes on. You want big doors.
You will want an overhead crane. Guaranteed. Tall ceiling, big overhangs, gutters are a must. Make sure the floor is above the local ground level by at least 6 inches. Ask me how I know. Rat walls....been there, still there, and not happy...get em. I have had it with critters burrowing under my shop. I have to bust up a section of floor and fill it and then re-pour it. :( stupid gophers..... Build it like you mean it. Cutting a corner now might be really hard to fix later.
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #17  
I will shortly have a 30' x 65' metal shop, storage type building constructed.
I want to specify construction that is above the norm.
Any thoughts and additions to my list would be appreciated.

Heaver Gauge steel 24 vs 26 vs 29?
Standing seam / hidden fasteners for the roof, instead of exposed screws with rubber washers?
Overhang's all sides 12" or xx"?
Gutters?
Roof pitch?
Panel width?
Roll up door vs garage type door?
Man door width 32", 34", 36" or xx"?
Storage area on the side?
Carport type area on the front?
Rafter spacing?

26 ga is ok unless you are in a high wind area.
Standing seam probably not worth any extra expense but it might look better if that is a consideration.
Overhang 6-12" is ok, more means more chance of wind getting under it and causing vibration or lift.
No gutters unless necessary; and if you have any trees around, then only if absolutely necessary.
Roof pitch depends on your preference and if there is a chance of snow load. I prefer 2/12 but I have no snow problem.
Panel width? Whatever; but I used 36" R-panel.
I have had both roll-up and overhead. Much prefer overhead and was willing to sacrifice the overhead space. The roll-up I had was just too flimsy and could not be insulated.
36" steel man door; do not go smaller.
I have storage area under roof on two sides. Cheap and great place to park tractor (close to air supply and power for battery maintainer).
Front carport? Absolutely! I have a 56'x21' slab in front of my two 10x10 overhead doors. 15' of it is under roof with open sides. This is where I do most of my sawing, welding, painting and cleaning.
Rafter spacing? Let the engineers providing the building decide. I used 2x 2 7/8" tubing to fabricate 12" x 28' rafters and put them 15' apart, then used 6"x 14 ga purlins to span them for the roof and 4" purlins for the wall girts.
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #18  
I will shortly have a 30' x 65' metal shop, storage type building constructed.
I want to specify construction that is above the norm.
Any thoughts and additions to my list would be appreciated.

Heaver Gauge steel 24 vs 26 vs 29?
Standing seam / hidden fasteners for the roof, instead of exposed screws with rubber washers?
Overhang's all sides 12" or xx"?
Gutters?
Roof pitch?
Panel width?
Roll up door vs garage type door?
Man door width 32", 34", 36" or xx"?
Storage area on the side?
Carport type area on the front?
Rafter spacing?

Thanks,
Jim

That's good sized building.

Always go with heavier metal if you can afford it. Thinner metal moves more, has less strength and is more prone to leaks around the screws if you go with R panels.

Standing seam is nicer looking and doesn't have screws going through it, but construction is totally different. It needs decking under it, which means trusses or purlins every two feet max. Then decking and paper just like a shingle house roof before it can be installed. This is a big increase in the cost of your roof!!!

Metal roofs don't really need an overhang. It's more for looks and getting some of the water off of the walls as it comes off the roof. Gutters are great if you can keep them clean or you have good guards on them. Water coming off of a roof and splashing on the ground is the number one cause of rot at the foundation. Or rust in a metal building. Shrubbery helps, but isn't a good alternative to gutters. The reason a house a has an overhang, or soffit, is to allow air to enter the attic space. With R panel metal, that ridges provide that opening for air to get in. If you go with Standing seam, then you will have to have an overhang and proper soffits with vents. Again, more money for a standing seam roof.

Metal roofs cannot be any shallower then 2:12 pitch. I personally like 4:12 the best because it sheds water quickly and allows pine needles and leaves to slide off the roof. It's easy to walk on and it has a nice look to it. Steeper sheds water faster, but it gets hard to walk on. Sooner or later you will have to go on the roof, it's nice not being afraid of sliding off of it.

R panels are 3 feet wide, standing seam are 1 foot wide.

A roll up door is nice if you want a big opening with more height then a standard garage door. They have electric openers if you want to spend more on that, but they open easily with a chain at the side of the door. Mine is 10x10 and that's worked out alright for a workshop. If I was parking something in there, I think 12 feet wide would be a better minimal width. Ten feet high has been very nice, I wouldn't want any lower. Garage doors cover up a lot of ceiling space when opened, so you have to consider your lighting and the low height inside the room when working on projects inside there. I think they are better for parking cars in there, they open faster and the remote control openers are cheaper. I honestly don't even know if you can get a remote control opener for a roll up door?

Exterior walk through doors come in two standard sizes. 32 and 36 inches. These are going to be the most cost effective. You can go bigger, but the price increase is huge. Go with the 36 inch door. If you are carrying anything in or out, that extra width will only be barely big enough.

There is no such thing as too much storage. It's always cheaper to build it all at once then come back later and add it. If you have the space, then adding lean to's to both sides is a very wise investment. Sooner or later you will put stuff in there, fill it up, and probably want to enclose all or part of it. This is one of those things that always happens!!!

Again, if you can afford it, having a carport in the front is very nice. All doors should be protected, but it's rare that a garage or shop door has any sort of protection from the rain. Water hits the door, wind drives it into any openings, and it takes longer to dry out once it's inside an opening. Rot at the bottom of garage doors is very common. Other then protecting your doors, a roof over the front of your garage will give you shade when working in there. I've gone back and forth on how big to build one in front of mine. From going out 30 feet to create another work area and safe place to park if there is hale in the forecast, to half that size, and now I'm leaning strongly towards 6 feet to create a walkway, porch area that goes out on either side of my door. I recently enclose one of my lean to's so I could build my wife a second kitchen to work on what she grows in the garden. I want a front porch over that door that includes my walk through door into my shop and then across the roll up door for a clean, finished look.

Good luck, the more you plan it, the better it will turn out.
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #19  
That's good sized building.

Always go with heavier metal if you can afford it. Thinner metal moves more, has less strength and is more prone to leaks around the screws if you go with R panels.

Standing seam is nicer looking and doesn't have screws going through it, but construction is totally different. It needs decking under it, which means trusses or purlins every two feet max. Then decking and paper just like a shingle house roof before it can be installed. This is a big increase in the cost of your roof!!!

Metal roofs don't really need an overhang. It's more for looks and getting some of the water off of the walls as it comes off the roof. Gutters are great if you can keep them clean or you have good guards on them. Water coming off of a roof and splashing on the ground is the number one cause of rot at the foundation. Or rust in a metal building. Shrubbery helps, but isn't a good alternative to gutters. The reason a house a has an overhang, or soffit, is to allow air to enter the attic space. With R panel metal, that ridges provide that opening for air to get in. If you go with Standing seam, then you will have to have an overhang and proper soffits with vents. Again, more money for a standing seam roof.

Metal roofs cannot be any shallower then 2:12 pitch. I personally like 4:12 the best because it sheds water quickly and allows pine needles and leaves to slide off the roof. It's easy to walk on and it has a nice look to it. Steeper sheds water faster, but it gets hard to walk on. Sooner or later you will have to go on the roof, it's nice not being afraid of sliding off of it.

R panels are 3 feet wide, standing seam are 1 foot wide.

I think it is worth clarifying a few things to the OP.

I agree heavier is always better in this case, but standing seam roofs do not have to have a deck or an overhang. If installed on plywood, yes you have to vent the wood but even that can be done without an overhang. There are different types of standing seams roof. The 12" panel in our area is a nail one style needing a deck and has a higher min. slope requirement. Commercially, standing seam panels are typically 16" wide panels and in the case of a red metal building (pre-engineered) can be fastened with clips directly to the purlins. You can also get different clips heights where the roll insulation will go over the purlin but under the roof panel without being compressed too much. Thermal blocks increase the R value here and you can do up to an R-19 ok. If you want more, us a simple saver type system that fills the depth of the purlins. In the end you won't see the purlins at all.

Another panel option with concealed fasteners is the trapzoindal panel. It is 24" wide has ribs (like an R panel but taller) and seams at the joints.

The OP should also know there is a difference between a concealed fastener roof system and a fully concealed roof system. A standing seam roof "floats" so one end has to be hinged so to speak. This is usually done with exposed fasteners either at the ridge or the eave and the rest of the roof has none. A fully concealed system still has a hinge, but is done with fasteners below the panel and different methods of misc. metal to the roof panel creating the hinge.

R panels roofs can be as little as 1/2:12 in the south and is most typical on PEMBs around here. Often roof slope is determined by the weathertightness warranty you may want, but you are asking for one of those, you are already spending good money.
 
   / Metal Shop Building - Upgrades #20  
Had a 30x30 in MS, red metal clearspan. Great for full open spaces, loved my roll up door 10x10 had 10 ft side walls, no less is desired. Several doors, I'd make a carport if needed. I had skylights, never needed lights unless overcast or night
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Irrigation Pump (A52128)
Irrigation Pump...
2017 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Van (A50324)
2017 Dodge Grand...
2015 KENWORTH T680 TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A52577)
2015 KENWORTH T680...
SET OF HANG ON WHEEL LOADER FORKS (A51242)
SET OF HANG ON...
King Kutter 6' 3 pt Mower (A50515)
King Kutter 6' 3...
2025 Safety Basket Forklift Attachment (A50322)
2025 Safety Basket...
 
Top