Methods for removing/installing attachments

plaindave · Aug 20, 2004

Is it just me, or is it really that difficult to remove and install attachments to the 3 pt hitch? I've been doing a lot of land clearing and running a fence line so I'm switching between a box blade and an auger pretty often. No matter how many times I've done it I just can't figure out an easy way to make the changeover. My big problem is I just can't seem to get the lower arms to spread far enough apart to get them off of the pins on the attachment.

Any suggestions for me to try? And don't suggest a quick hitch. Money's tight right now and I'd rather spend it on a toothbar or more fenceposts.

B7800, loader, box blade, auger, and neighbors with the other attachments I don't have.

MMM · Aug 20, 2004

Some implements you can turn pins inward. I use a tape meas and write toplink distance down on implement also so I don't have to fiddle with that.

DiskDoctr · Aug 21, 2004

Dave,

I had the same issue for many years, so when I bought this new tractor, I invested in a quick hitch.

All implements don't fit nicely, so I found the settings for the QH that fit most of them and modified the rest with torch, grinder, and welder.

I am adding a hydraulic top link next week, which will make it even easier.

If you go this way, I found some creative (and cheap!) ways to adapt standard Cat1 pins to the larger diameter needed for the QH.

Here is the one Northern Tool has. Quick Hitch

I bought mine at TSC because it is heavy and shipping would be a lot.

-JC

California · Aug 21, 2004

( Any suggestions for me to try? )

I guess I still think like a carpenter... I use a 2x4 stud (8 ft) to pry the arms off the pins. Also to skid the implement into line with the pin holes to hitch up.

This is just the right length for adequate leverage, and I think it is much safer than a long steel bar if it slips and I get bumped by it.

OkieG · Aug 21, 2004

Removing/installing should not be difficult. It takes a little practice, but the learning curve is steep. Check out this link.

My description is for a brush hog, but the same principles hold true for your boxblade. It's not all that hard. Try it and let me know. Any questions? Ask away. Good luck!

OkieG

stephan · Aug 21, 2004

I find the best things to have available is a large rubber mallet and an adjustable wrench. Try and put the attachment on level ground. Sometimes it pays to rig up something to balance the attachment ready for connection e.g I cut down an old sawhorse to rest the front of my blade against so it's level and easy to attach.

I back to tractor to within an inch or so (in my shed so the ground is level) and stop the tractor without the parking brake on and line up the lower arms for height and width. Then I simple roll the tractor back by hand turning the rear wheel. Because the rear wheel is so big the tractor is not so hard to move.

I'm sure to get some jip over this but trust me it's safe in controlled conditions /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

JerryG · Aug 21, 2004

Dave,
Might I suggest, a dead blow hammer. A regular hammer or anything metal will mess up the arms. A Dead Blow hammer will deliver the power needed to remove the arm and not damage anything.

GregJ · Aug 21, 2004

I used to struggle with the same thing. I recently upgraded my B7500 with telescoping links. There have been a lot of posts on this. It's not an expensive upgrade and it has made a lot of difference to be able to just back up and swing the arms out as far as they will go without having to mess with turnbuckles. I have also made a dolly for my chipper so I can easily move it to the right position. So, between dollies and the new links, it's really easy to swap attachments. Hope this helps.

Greg

normde2001 · Aug 21, 2004

"I just can't seem to get the lower arms to spread far enough apart to get them off of the pins on the attachment."

What is the reason for this? The only limiting factor should be the lower arm hitting the rear wheel. Are you using the right category implement for your tractor?

Tdog · Aug 21, 2004

Plaindave, I know what you are talking about. Backing up to the box scraper, the lower arms are flopping about - - you get one lined up, & the other is who knows where. I don't know the answer, short of spending some $$ for a quick hitch. I'm thinking about a 2x4 cut to length & notched to achieve just the right spread for the box.

kuby · Aug 21, 2004

I use a 6' crowbar and this helps to move the disc or (what ever) forward and backward and side to side to line up the pins. The tiller does not have pins but rather two verticle plates that you lower your arms into and then you just slide in the pins. I have thought about makeing all my 3pth like the tiller, I will go get a pic so you know what I am talking about.

plaindave · Aug 21, 2004

Thanks for the ideas. I'm already a hammer man. That was the first tool I reached for. Right now I back up the tractor in the shed and lower the box on two 4x4's that level and above grade. After that it's push, shove and beat to get them off.

The anti-sway turnbuckles are open as wide as I can get them. As for the size of the box blade, it's a 60" Land Pride. Going to put the auger back on tomorrow so I'm going to try the wd-40 and backing technique - makes sense that it would work.

You know messing around with this by myself makes me understand why my father sold our old Massey after I moved out. A few more years and I won't be able to muscle around 400 lbs either.

DannyD · Aug 21, 2004

Pats would help a lot. You dont have to have the width, and if you have adjustable links, you can set them and back up to what ever, or as you do get off and move the tractor. I had the same problems you are having, Pats fixed it nice and quick. It aint perfect, but it does work wonderfully

kuby · Aug 22, 2004

Here is the pic of the tiller hitch.

OhioGuy · Aug 22, 2004

Hi Dave,
I know what you mean. I found a good solution for me. If you can store the implement or leave the implement on level concrete or asphalt this works great. Get a pallet for each implement and some swivel casters beefy enough from Harbor Freight or elsewhere. On concrete, I can easily push a 400Lb implement around with no problem. I'll get one arm on, move into position for the other, throw the toplink on and lift it off the pallet. I have a pallet for a Woods RM59. I use two furniture dollys for my 4 ft brush hog. I bought the casters for about $2 a piece. I only broke one in one season.

Good Luck,
Curt

Harper · Aug 22, 2004

Dave,
I have a cone spreader, box blade and finish mower. Cone spreader and finish mower are not to difficult. Spreader is light and finish mower obviously has wheels. I got a heavy duty oak pallet and bought 4 caster wheels and attached them to the bottom. Now I just set my box blade down on the pallet, roll it out of the way and when I want to hook it back up can maneuver it back into position. I don't have the arm spacing problem, but this method does allow you to wiggle the box blade around after you get one pin attached.
Good luck.

DannyD · Aug 22, 2004

I would think the Pats would still work, looks like you have more room than I do. I have to tilt my tiller to get the hooks on, but have learned to do it off the tractor, one hand on tiller, one on lever to lift the bottom links.

I saw some attachments at my local dealer the other day that had that type of arrangement on them. Now if they could put a plate under the tabs, to rest the links in, then you could shim it up to be perfect each time.......back up, lay them in, put in pins and go!

JerryT · Aug 23, 2004

I have both the Quick Hitch (now for sale) and Pat's system. The quick hitch is a little easier to use but totally lacks in "width" vesatility. Pat's is more vesatile, and since it connects from the bottom, not the side, it would solve your problem.