MF 1220 - differential lock engagement

[davesisk]

Hi folks:

I was moving some natural mulch last night (shredded stump, leaves, and pine straw!) and tried engaging the differential lock a couple of times rather than shifting to 4wd. I couldn't get the diff lock engaged. The heel plate has a long slot, but I could only push it maybe 1/3 of the way down without really putting some force on it. (And yes, I did have the clutch depressed while doing this and was sitting still.) Any advice? Should I just push harder, or is there some adjustment that I might need to make?

Regards,
Dave

 

[Richard]

I always thought you hit the diff lock WHILE moving and preferably, moving in a straight line?

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Bird]

Dave, you don't want to try to engage the differential lock while a wheel is "spinning", but you do usually have to be moving a bit to give the locking pin a chance to line up.

 

[JerryG]

Keep pressure on the pedal as you ease out on the clutch.

 

[davesisk]

Thanks folks...I assume it requires similar jiggling to disengage?

Dave

 

[JerryG]

No, most of the time you can just let up and go straight. Then it will disengage it's self. If it won't doing that, pull up slightly. The gears are square cut and have to be aligned pretty well before they will engage.

 

[davesisk]

I went back and checked what the manual says on engaging the diff lock. It's says to depress the clutch and stop. I guess what it means is "stop spinning one wheel", eh? It makes sense to me that you'd have to be moving to get the lock to engage.

Now, the part I can't figure is this (HST drive): since you have to hold the diff lock pedal down with your heel, how do you press the forward treadle with the same foot? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif This must be designed for someone with ski-sized feet! The reverse heel pedal is within reach while holding the diff lock pedal down, but the forward pedal is not. However, this guy does have the cruise control lever that only sets forward speed, so I guess the only choice while using the diff lock to go forward is to use the cruise control lever. There ya go.

Thanks for the posts, folks. The manual is a good start, but I'm discovering that there's lots of details that aren't in there, so I really appreciate everyone's posts.

Regards,
Dave

 

[loulblades]

I have found that on my GC2300, the diff lock doesn't usually engage until a rear tire slips. That is, I will be doing my thing with my foot on the diff lock pedal and it doesn't go down into the full engaged position until the tire slips.

This doesn't happen all the time it seems (since I realized this I don't really pay attention to it). My guess would be some gears need to get lined up before engagement occurs.

 

[MattL]

Hey Dave,
I have the manual tranny, so it is a bit easier for me to use the diff lock. I can't imagine how you would do it with HST. I've engage it numerous times while moving. If I'm on a weird angle, or in some soft dirt, and a rear-tire spins, I just stick my heel on it. Everything locks up and tractor moves on out of whatever mess I got it in. I guess I shoulda' read the operator manual first on that. Didn't know you weren't supposed to engage while in motion.

It has taken some practice to coordinate all the various pedals and levers all at the same time, but that's half the fun of having a tractor!

matt

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> Didn't know you weren't supposed to engage while in motion.</font>
It should be engaged while both wheels are stopped. If it won't go in, then the wheels can be moved slightly. If they are going fast or spinning when it is engaged, you run the risk of damaging the gears.