MF 135 Electrical issue

   / MF 135 Electrical issue #11  
Daaaam, the machine I would use to clear a landing strip is the one that's down. How many feet do you need?

Actually, a neighbor a mile down the road has a strip, and he too is an a/c mechanic. Never met the guy though.
 
   / MF 135 Electrical issue
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Probably 3500 feet, paved.
 
   / MF 135 Electrical issue #13  
ooooh!

Greyhound still come through town?
 
   / MF 135 Electrical issue #15  
I'm fairly competent. I'm an aircraft mechanic, not a tractor mechanic :). I do have all the manuals/IPC for the thing as well. I'm just not much of a spark chaser I usually do engine work. I've been through this tractor a lot since I've owned it. Stopped every leak, got her running like a top. I just haven't really had many electrical issues.

Just think of tractor as airframe without wings.... Starting circuits are all very similar.... Power from battery to a solenoid, power from ignition switch to coil, put ign switch over to start (or push button), engages solenoid and starter spins motor, if spark and fuel and timed corrector it should start....

Only thing the ever threw me was ignition switch on ex-wifes VW... In "start" position switch was defective and didn't supply voltage to coil...

Dale
 
   / MF 135 Electrical issue
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Came here to post the found problem. I took my starter off to test it and the solenoid on a separate 12v source. Upon taking it off the disconnected +battery lead came with it. Starter tested good. Upon visual inspection I noticed the battery cable was pretty severely corroded. I was always getting voltage but never enough to budge the starter. Upon making a new cable it fired right up.
 
   / MF 135 Electrical issue #17  
I have never done it, but putting a load tester on at the starter will check for the connections and cable to the starter. A high impedence DVM will give you readings that are misleading.

Good Job.
 
   / MF 135 Electrical issue #18  
Yep, thats a downside of a digital volt meter. It will show full voltage thru a damp piece of hair, but that wouldn't be enough to light up a fireflys butt.
I use a tail light bulb, salvaged from an old vehicle. Outfit it with a couple small alligator clips and you're set.
Another way to overcome these limitations is to attach the tester, THEN activate the circuit and see if the voltage stays almost constant. You want to measure the voltage UNDER LOAD to determine if the connection is good.
Another redneck method to find a bad connection is to activate your circuit for 10-20 seconds, then go around and feel for heat. A bad connection will generate heat if the load is adequate.
 

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