MF 135 Perkin 3 cyl Diesel sitting for 20+ years

[briaineo]

Hello from Ireland

I'm trying to get a 1960's MF 135 going again it been sitting at least two decades and is seized solid.
Been pouring different solutions down the cylinders for months now and trying to turn the fly wheel, to no avail.
I致e never delved into an engine before rebuilt control valves and brake callipers or old cars before that's about it.
Have the diesel tank off and the oil drained (total sludgy gunk mixed with water)
I have the three injectors removed and got them rebuilt.
I was going to buy an engine overhaul kit and remove the liners and replace the pistons and rings.
Can anyone help with the order/process please?
Below is what I think I should be doing;

1. Remove rocker cover then, cylinder head (undo bolts)
2. Remove oil sump (undo bolts)
3. Disconnect conrods (undo bolts)
4. Push pistons out through top of block (is this done by hammering up a length of wood from below? (only going from videos online)
5. Remove cylinder liners (seen a video online where a guy used a homemade jig: a threaded bar with a circular disc he machined on a lathe attached to the bottom and was able to slowly prise them upwards by turning the nut which rest upon two pieces of angle iron up top)
6. Does the MF 135 have rubber seals that go in before the new liners do?
7. What would the correct method be for home installation of the new liners? Reverse of removal? Or is the crank shaft in the way?

Leaving the Cylinder Head and valves etc aside for the moment

Reinstallation
New sleeves in
1. Install the 5 rings on the pistons (are all the rings the same?)
2. Drop in the pistons
3. Connect up con rods to correct toque settings
4. Replace sump cover (replace oil pump?)
5. New head gasket if using a copper one is gasket sealant required?
6. Install cylinder and torque up bolts to correct setting

I've probably missed loads any advice would be great
Two torque settings I don't have are the cylinder head bolts and the con rod bolts

Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

These threads from the T-B-N ARCHIVE should help:

MF 135 Perkins diesel overhaul site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

MF 135 Perkins diesel seized site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

 

[flusher]

The clutch could be stuck to the flywheel. Have you checked for this problem?

Good luck

 

[briaineo]

Thanks jeff9366

Hi flusher
I haven稚 checked if clutch is stuck to the flywheel; is there an easy way to check this?

Thanks

 

[gary49]

Even if the clutch is stuck to the flywheel, the engine should turn if the transmission is in neutral. I start the Perkins in my Fordson Super Dexta frequently with the transmission in neutral standing beside the tractor and the clutch is engaged when I do that. You need to get a manual, it's an easy engine to work on, but a manual is absolutely necessary. Water in the oil pan is not a good sign, could be cracked block or head. You need to dismantle the engine to figure out what is wrong. You have a very tough engine in that old Perkins, though, don't write it off until you figure out what's wrong with it. I wouldn't buy any more parts yet, if I were you.

 

[Sysop]

Could also try to drag it, use the drivetrain's gearing to apply more force to the engine than you can put on it at the flywheel.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I tried that dragging approach once on a friends vintage tractor that had only been seized a short time. Surprising to both of us, it was totally ineffective. AND, that was after having brake fluid in the cylinders for a while.

 

[radios1]

one of these methods will work, you just need to be careful for safety, and mind how long the acid stays in the cylinder!.. Broken Tap Removal by chemical methods basically, it's the same as removing a tap, you want to dissolve just enough material to loosen the cylinder, then neutralize the acid..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Brake fluid??? why aren't u using transmission fluid?? ATF will eat the carbon deposits..
Most everyone uses ATF & acetone mix 50/50 & let it sit about a week..
I noticed u got the injectors rebuilt.. why not the pump?? The injectors aren't any good without the pump..
I can help u out with the pump rebuild.. BUT u gotta get the engine to turn 1st.. BUY A BOOK/ SERVICE MANUAL..

 

[briaineo]

Hi

Just a quick question on the sleeve removal, saw a great homemade jig made up using a treaded bar.

Is the diameter at the top of the sleeves the same as the bottom? Was thinking of getting a disc made up on a lathe but wanted to get a disc made before the new sleeves are ordered. Like in image attached: Automotive or Tractor cylinder crank in sleeve puller | eBay

Thanks

 

[briaineo]

Got the cylinder head off today

Do not have the equipment to lift out engine so will be removing the pistons in frame.

Anyone any advice of this? From looking at the picture the piston in number 2 cylinder will be difficult.

Is it a matter of dropping the sump and disconnecting the connecting rods and hammering out with a block of wood from below?

Is there room without removing the crank? First time doing anything like this...

Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

 

[blacklion66]

I've freed up two old lister diesels by filling the cylinders full of kerosene and letting them set for a week or so

Never worked on a Perkins before but if you can get to the front drive shaft that will have some sort of nut on it
a electric impact wrench might even help

Can you remove the engine and transmission?

Pulling the machine to turn the engine over? one of 3 things will happen #1 the engine will turn over #2 the wheels will drag on the surface you are pulling on #3 you will break something expensive.

Patience, penetrating oil, small propane torch and being very stubborn & made a few cuss words might get the job done

LUCK!

 

[fried1765]

Got the cylinder head off today

Do not have the equipment to lift out engine so will be removing the pistons in frame.

Anyone any advice of this? From looking at the picture the piston in number 2 cylinder will be difficult.

Is it a matter of dropping the sump and disconnecting the connecting rods and hammering out with a block of wood from below?

Is there room without removing the crank? First time doing anything like this...

Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

Go SLOWLY!
Be patient!

Mix ATF 50/50 with acetone, and pour into top of cylinder.
Wait for a week or two...or 3
If fluid evaporates sooner, add more.
Be PATIENT!!!

 

[gary49]

You don't lift the engine out to remove it, you "split" the tractor. The engine and transmission are structural. Any tractor without a frame is like that. Typically it's done with some kind of rolling apparatus on the front part and supports under the back part. Google it, probably won't find a video of the exact tractor, but you'll get the idea. I expect you will have to remove the crankshaft to fix the engine, water in the crankcase will corrode the bearings and journals, camshaft as well. Plan on a new clutch, might as well as long as you've got it apart.

 

[goeduck]

Back in the sday we used to fill the cylinders with penetrating oil, put the kick crank in the front of the tractor, jack the crank handle up with a bottle jack and let it sit for a day or two. Usually did the trick.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I once loosened up a tractor by lifting one wheel off of the ground and rocking it back and forth while in gear. There was enough slop in the transmission that soon I had the motor turning over. I had pulled the spark plugs and squirted oil in.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If your going to remove the pistons from the TOP.. feel around the top & MAKE SURE it doesn't have a "lip"..
That LIP is called a "ridge".. its a space where the combustion gasses form a ridge of carbon.. harder than a rock..
They sell a TOOL called a ridge reamer to cut the carbon.. its made for this reason..
IF u TRY to get the pistons out & theres a ridge.. you'll break the rings & possibly the ring lands on the piston.. not to mention a WHOLE LOTTA hammering...
BTW> u should have de-greased the motor before attempting this teardown..
Its not to late.. get some "Gunk" foam engine degreaser or some oven cleaner & have at it..

 

[thepumpguysc]

BTW>> who's doing the fuel system?? pump & injectors..
I'd love to get my hands on'm.. Just click on my screen name for contact info..

 

[gary49]

BTW>> who's doing the fuel system?? pump & injectors..
I'd love to get my hands on'm.. Just click on my screen name for contact info..

OP is in Ireland, I believe.

 

[briaineo]

Yep in Ireland, thanks for all the replies they were a great help, didn稚 actually realize that the engine was a structural part of the tractor

I have got the injectors rebuilt last year, been pouring atf and acetone down the injector holes for months now, also tried brake fluid.

Havn稚 gotton around to the injector pump yet, are they difficult to rebuild yourself? Rebuilt the power steering control valve on the 69 Vette over the weekend and pulled the cylinder head on the MF135 that was my weekend...

I see the injector pump rebuild kits are not too expensive.

I was hoping to be able to drop the oil sump and remove the pistons and inspect them. From looking at tractor supply store website they seem to be the four ring piston as opposed to the 5 ring ones. (Only going by the piston bowl area ontop shape).

Just one question: if I remove the sump and disconnect the con rod bolts then I can attempt to insert a length of timber between the crank and bore wall and try and hammer the pistons out?