MF 135 - Two Stage Clutch... More like a NO STAGE CLUTCH

[coralhead]

Get a complete new/rebuilt clutch/pressure plate assembly to put back in. The clutch adjustments will usually be done before you put it back in. The split is really no big deal. The wedges are a must and while in there look at replacing the tranny oil seal.

 

[shaeff]

Finally got a minute to respond to this, I agree with everyone else that it looks like a clutch pin of sorts. Also, thanks for that link about splitting the 35/135 tractors, I hadn't seen that before. I think I'll have to split mine this summer (oil leak) so that'll be useful. Take lots of pics and good luck!

 

[slhilbert]

I appreciate everyone's thought. My plan is to split it and see what I have inside going on. Then at the point order new parts, seals, etc. The more I read about the split the less I am concerned about it. I have a 2.5 ton jack, is that enough to roll the back end half away from the front safely?

Stuart

 

[banjodunn]

G'day your jack should be plenty big enough but why not roll the front away I have always found it so much easier to move the front than the back end.


Jon

 

[slhilbert]

The video I watched showed rolling the back away, but either direction is fine with me.

Thanks,
Stuart

 

[rktown]

I'm in the final staging of getting my 1968 MF135 back together after splitting it for a clutch replacement. Some tips: get it as clean as possible before starting the split; take pics as you remove stuff to help remember where things go; plug all the fuel lines as soon as disconnecting (heater hose with bolts fitted inside works); check the settings on the new clutch - mine needed adjustment of both the release finger screws and the PTO clutch release screws. I used engine cleaner to remove a heavy layer of gunk inside the bell housing - quite messy but the results look good. I hope the new seals take care of the leaks. I was about to connect the fuel lines to the injection pump last night, but I think there are pieces of the rubber sleeve down in the inlet, so I will try to vacuum them out first.

 

[slhilbert]

Good tips. I am surprise to see you took it so far apart. It seems like I could just remove the bolts around the clutch and that would do it, but yours in pieces is that necessary?

 

[rktown]

I needed room to get right up to the clutch assembly to handle it - quite heavy. Also needed to remove the trans PTO input shaft to replace the seals and clean everything up. It was a lot easier to work by getting between the 2 halves instead of from the sides.

 

[SIMassey]

I'm in the final staging of getting my 1968 MF135 back together after splitting it for a clutch replacement. Some tips: get it as clean as possible before starting the split; take pics as you remove stuff to help remember where things go; plug all the fuel lines as soon as disconnecting (heater hose with bolts fitted inside works); check the settings on the new clutch - mine needed adjustment of both the release finger screws and the PTO clutch release screws. I used engine cleaner to remove a heavy layer of gunk inside the bell housing - quite messy but the results look good. I hope the new seals take care of the leaks. I was about to connect the fuel lines to the injection pump last night, but I think there are pieces of the rubber sleeve down in the inlet, so I will try to vacuum them out first.

Does your multi-power work? The supply line to the multi-power control valve looks badly kinked in the photo.

 

[rktown]

It did before the clutch went out and the tractor sat for several years. I may have done some of the kink when I removed the line, but it is not completely closed and I was not sure how much it mattered.