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MF 35 Perkins White Smoke
- Thread starter NoPaint
- Start date
- Views: 21786
It's not much work to lift out, if you going to do a good quality overhaul it must out.
I see what you mean. The oil pan cannot be removed unless I split the tractor. I will forklift the engine out and onto my stand. Do you have a suggestion for sleeve removal? I was going to machine a disk that is around 93mm diameter and use some threaded rod and such to remove the sleeves. Being a dry fit makes me think it will require a lot of force. Any suggestions?
Also - on a lot of other diesel engines I lock the pump in time at top dead center for cylinder 1 before removing the pump but it seems like this pump I can remove and later on rotate the engine and get all of the dots to align and I do not have to remove the injection pump at any one spot?
thepumpguysc
Elite Member
The inj. pump is "master splined".. there is a dowel pin in the drive gear which allows the pump to only go on, 1way..
BUT.. if u get the gear OFF.. that makes the pump OFF.. so the gear placement is paramount..
IF your taking the engine all the way down, start w/ the front cover & MAKE SURE the drive gear for the pump only has 1 dot.!!
They used that drive gear on many applications depending on how many cylinders they were working with..
SO, that said.. there may be several dots on the PUMP drive gear.. They're usually designated w/ the cylinder count tho.. 3-4-6.. butcha never know.. SO CHECK..
BUT.. if u get the gear OFF.. that makes the pump OFF.. so the gear placement is paramount..
IF your taking the engine all the way down, start w/ the front cover & MAKE SURE the drive gear for the pump only has 1 dot.!!
They used that drive gear on many applications depending on how many cylinders they were working with..
SO, that said.. there may be several dots on the PUMP drive gear.. They're usually designated w/ the cylinder count tho.. 3-4-6.. butcha never know.. SO CHECK..
The inj. pump is "master splined".. there is a dowel pin in the drive gear which allows the pump to only go on, 1way..
BUT.. if u get the gear OFF.. that makes the pump OFF.. so the gear placement is paramount..
IF your taking the engine all the way down, start w/ the front cover & MAKE SURE the drive gear for the pump only has 1 dot.!!
They used that drive gear on many applications depending on how many cylinders they were working with..
SO, that said.. there may be several dots on the PUMP drive gear.. They're usually designated w/ the cylinder count tho.. 3-4-6.. butcha never know.. SO CHECK..
Thank you! I will first check dots (and maybe even spice them up with some paint) before tear down...even I can line up dots after rebuild!
I listened to the video and thought injector not firing, carried on and it was confirmed with the compression readings.
NOTE 1: when you split the tractor, WEDGE the front axle, or the engine will flop over to one side.
NOTE 2:The sump is a load carring component, it's HEAVY, so be careful not to drop the sump on your self during removal.
good luck.
NOTE 1: when you split the tractor, WEDGE the front axle, or the engine will flop over to one side.
NOTE 2:The sump is a load carring component, it's HEAVY, so be careful not to drop the sump on your self during removal.
good luck.
I listened to the video and thought injector not firing, carried on and it was confirmed with the compression readings.
NOTE 1: when you split the tractor, WEDGE the front axle, or the engine will flop over to one side.
NOTE 2:The sump is a load carring component, it's HEAVY, so be careful not to drop the sump on your self during removal.
good luck.
Thank you for the tips. Regarding the axle - my intent is to remove the axle and block under the transmission. Then use a forklift to lift the engine. Do you believe that is a good plan of attack?
Also thanks for the sump information. It looks HEAVY
When I split my tractor it was split at the transmission ,the front 1/2 rolled forward then the engine removed from the axle per mechanics advice. Leaving the front axle on means you can hand roll the wheels to work the engine trans' apart gently.
Also use a hand winch for the fine vertical movement as the forklift hydraulics may be to quick for fine control.
Nearly forgot, what gearbox do you have? A 3 or 4 speed gearbox will be easy to reconnect to the engine. A multipower is a whole different ball game. You will need to ENGAGE the PTO and "rock" the transmission using a spanner on the pto shaft to make the transmission input shaft line up with the splines on the engine. Be warned ,this stage can be very frustrating.
Good Luck.
Also use a hand winch for the fine vertical movement as the forklift hydraulics may be to quick for fine control.
Nearly forgot, what gearbox do you have? A 3 or 4 speed gearbox will be easy to reconnect to the engine. A multipower is a whole different ball game. You will need to ENGAGE the PTO and "rock" the transmission using a spanner on the pto shaft to make the transmission input shaft line up with the splines on the engine. Be warned ,this stage can be very frustrating.
Good Luck.
When I split my tractor it was split at the transmission ,the front 1/2 rolled forward then the engine removed from the axle per mechanics advice. Leaving the front axle on means you can hand roll the wheels to work the engine trans' apart gently.
Also use a hand winch for the fine vertical movement as the forklift hydraulics may be to quick for fine control.
Nearly forgot, what gearbox do you have? A 3 or 4 speed gearbox will be easy to reconnect to the engine. A multipower is a whole different ball game. You will need to ENGAGE the PTO and "rock" the transmission using a spanner on the pto shaft to make the transmission input shaft line up with the splines on the engine. Be warned ,this stage can be very frustrating.
Good Luck.
I have a 3 speed. I have to take a good look at the whole setup but my plan is to remove the front axle and then remove the engine/flywheel from the transmission if that is possible.